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slice

YOC Member
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Posts posted by slice

  1. I have just laid the bike up for the winter and have about 3 pints of petrol left in the tank, from some of the other comments that I have read it seems that there is a case for leaving some fuel in the tank and for emptying it, so which is best? I was always thought that some fuel in the tank kept the seals and rubbers in good condition but having seen some of the horrible gunk that some peeps have in their tank after leaving it for a while I'm not so sure now, is it some thing to do with the amount of ethanol that is now in fuel or just crap fuel that we get here, any advise would be appreciated as I do not want to find in 6 months that the whole fuel system needs to be cleaned out, I don't mind taking the carbs off or flushing the tank but would prefer not to. :idea:

  2. If your stancions (the chrome bits) are rusted or pitted then you need to address that first, I have the same problem with my XJ at the moment, if it's just the seals then it will mean removing the forks and a complete strip down to get the new seals in, you have to be careful taking the forks apart as the spring have a habit of trying to take your eye out if you look down the hole as you release the pressure. Usually a spring /C washer at the top which you have to release first before getting at the spring, look in your Haynes if in doubt some times they get it right and just follow what it says in the instructions, quite straight forward really but you have to do it in the right order, getting the new seals in can be a bit of a trial as they tend to try to warp out of shape as you try to insert them, most workshops have a special tool for seal fitting so go see your local friendly! mechanic and ask if you can beg or borrow one off of him/her, you can use a bit of plastic tubing cut down to size but that gets really fiddly if you don't have a mate to hold things in place while you push it into place, and remember OIL EVERYTHING before you put the seals in as it makes it slip home a treat otherwise it just grabs every where and you will need a new set and start over again. Hope that helps? :jossun:

  3. Thanks Preload, that was what I wanted to hear, cheaper and more practical to rechrome than to bugger about with setting up replacement forks. So this winter off they come and over to the rechromers. :jossun:

  4. Ok I have a small problem with my front forks on the XJ750, the upper (chrome) legs are very badly pitted and I was wondering if it was possible to replace them with forks from some thing else? The only fly in the ointment is that the XJ has the anti dive setup on the lower end of the forks and I was wondering if I could simply do away with this.

    Also would anyone know what forks would fit my frame without making it look to much of a frankenmachine, I would like to replace them with something from a lot newer machine but need some advice as to what would fit. The other alternative is to get the stancions rechromed but not sure if this could be done or what the cost would be so if you have any ideas (about my problem and not something that just popped into your head!) I would be really appreciative of some relavent advice. Thanks all. :jossun:

  5. On my 750 it goes on the number 3 inlet at the top of the carb (right up against the cylinder head), you should see a small rubber boot thingy with a metal clip/tab, if you look you will probably see where it goes as the others have the boot and the one you want doesn't :hah:

  6. Hi Ed, And welcome to the world of the big bike, not sure how much you really know about staying safe but keep your eyes on stalks and watch out for everything, the R6 is a really nice bike but it will bite you in the arse if you forget that it can spit you off even in a straight line if you are careless. Just take your time and learn SLOWLY what it can do don't try to race from the get go and you should be ok, go out with a mate and follow him/her until you start to feel a bit more confident, most bikers who crash are unwilling to listen to the phrase "go slow". Advanced rider courses are out there if you need them and for a few quid it might save your life, other than that enjoy your new toy and remember that the blue bit is up and the black bit is down. :jossun:

  7. Hi Alex, Thanks for that makes it all clear and well done with what you have done to the site. Ok first thing My bike is an XJ750, it's blue and yellow either under the name Martinread or MRR. I hope that helps with finding the right photos and if not please email me and I will do my best to get the info you need, email is [email protected]. Martin.

  8. Ok I see we now have a nice shiny new look to the site and it is an improvement over the original "BUT" where have my photos in the garage gone? Only 2 out of about a dozen that were there and sad to say I DO NOT have the originals. Can anyone tell me if I can get them back and how? HELP! :madflame:

  9. What "EXACTLY" does it do? does it simply cut out or does it slowly get worse and worse, the coils can get tired after a few years and the HT leads get brittle with the heat + the plug caps can get tracking inside of them that will get worse over time. That is just for starters, so a more precise description of your problem would help with a diagnosis. :)

  10. Hi Paul and welcome to the YOC, this is the place to say Hi and not to ask for advice, see WORKSHOP, try again mate and someone might tell you what to do to sort out your problem, right now I suspect that your going to get a lot of grief about dipsticks :lol:

  11. Nice one Paul, I'll have one (LARGE) pse. Just in case I DO NOT! want a tartan shell suit, got one hanging in the wardrobe now and can't find the right place to wear it. Tried it while riding the bike and kept getting stopped by the rozzers. :lol:

  12. Sounds like clutch drag, not enough adjustment, you should probably try a new cable if it hasn't been changed from new. Or put a spacer in front of the nipple at the engine end of the cable to see if that cures the problem before you buy a new cable. worst case is worn cluth friction plates, dont go there until you have tried everything else. Does it make a noise when you pull the clutch in with it in gear? graunchy metal to metal sound if not then probably just adjustment and not plates. :)

    Should also add that this is the new member section an not the "HELP MY BIKE DONT WORK" section, say Hi and then post in workshop or people will get stroppy. Nuf said!

  13. Hi, Try this for a start, if you don't have specific torque setting then this might help.

    5mm @ 3.5 to 4.5Ft lb

    6mm @ 6 to 9 Ft lb

    8mm @ 13 to 18 Ft lb

    10mm @ 22 to 29

    12mm @ 36 to 43

    These are just rough guides for the torques you need, they will pinch it up just enough so that they wont vibrate loose. :D

  14. Check why it is leaking, it may be scoring on the upper fork leg so check them BEFORE you fit the new seals as otherwise you will just tear the new ones as well, if you have pitting to the upper leg then use wire wool (fine) and some T-CUT to get it back as near to flat as possible, DO NOT use sand/emery paper on the chrome as you will have to get them rechromed if you do, as above beware that the spring is under pressure inside the stancion leg and it will take your eye out or your ear off, do exactly as it explains in the Haynes manual and you won't go far wrong but remember to lay out the parts as you take them out so you have a reference when you rebuild it,do one at a time other wise you will mix the bits up, grease every thing as you rebuild it and make sure that the fork seals are level as you push them home, a piece of pipe that fits just inside the fork leg is best so you can knock it home without twisting it. Other than that it's quite easy just remember to take your time, finally don't foget to put oil in the forks, sounds silly but if you rush it's the obvious things you forget. Good luck. :D

  15. Hi Flysig, It would be nice if you said Hi in the new members section otherwise people will get grumpy with you and ignore your request for help, it's usually people who want advise and then we never hear from them again!

    As to your problem why don't you try an exhaust bandage, usually comes in various lengths and can be screwed into place before it sets, you will have to use an electric heat gun if you want it to work properly as they can take hours to dry otherwise. Just wrap it around the exhaust (sorry) muffler, it won't be pretty but it will be cheap.

  16. Welcome to the YOC LS, nice little bike just take your time and stay safe. My tax disc is on the rear of the bike behind the foot peg, left hand side cos that's what it says in the rule book, if you don't display it you WILL get nicked, you can't even use a photo copy as it's against the law (yawn) to copy an official document, what you can do is buy one of those multi bolt jobbies that take forever to undo to stop the local scrote from nicking it. Ride safe, remember Black down Blue up.

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