exess4

Noticed few days ago bike sold, and now not showing on the site, did you buy it? "Thinking of first big bike" - UK and Europ. only (for now) Fazer8! Something to finance since higher than what looks to be preferred price range. Only thing to "look for" though would only be first-year production service bulletins. Demo bike w/ test ride miles only currently here. As for us U.S. blokes. . . if only!

In Other Words sorry for the lazy acronym kid-like text term. BTW -by the way- I found a place with a Clymer in stock, It's on the way. Seems included in title is only the 360 and 400, which would be nice. Will find out when it arrives. Also if the two are basically the same then- Hayne's being UK version - I can expect that something like a grudgeon pin (whaaa??) will be called, for me, a wrist pin, for example?

I might have the same question myself. Here is a bad pic of before removing batt. box. But who's to say the prev owner had it right. (i wanna know why all 4 fuses are 15Amp) (these are good reasons to soon get the real deal Manuf. service manual, suppose owners manual too).

IOW Hayne's synonymous w/ Clymer. If so very useful to have known that, ha. Thanks! Links aplenty there, always nice. For Hayne's (USD) had this one bookmarked: theMotorBookstore more manual questions to ensue (jk)

Thanks, but checked that, the New book is for '650twin'. The used list is where I checked some websites and to call the places.

Am I wrong that Clymer does not have a book for the XS400? Have searched HERE and there, called the Clymer pub's # and others. Places called will say, sure we have it in stock even, then, no, sorry that happens to be for the 750, our mistake.

Used wrong terminology, I guess. Barrels - was referring to cylinders specifically and a local bike shop said only $20 for a crosshatching/wet honing cleaning. I like. I think that Wildturkey prob. meant to replace entire case, upper and lower half, come to think of it, except I want to keep the same engine # on it. The same local shop coudn't get Wellseal (preferred that) but bought Threebond 1194. Thinkin' the right stuff, and instructions to apply as thinly as possible. (apparently it is the replacement of 1104 due to lead content). Haven't had time to talk to any welders about problema primera BUT what about this idea: have used this stuff on an old car for rust holes in the muffler and it hardens like, well . . . steel! The thought has occurred and am tempted to try it out although I might have forever regrets if it goes awry. Then there's also this stuff, Devcon metal patch Probably not such a great idea to even entertain

Like the looks of that alot, and price is nice! Not my post to be asking, pardwn, but they didn't appear to have for '78 2E which would really be '77. To buy the seat alone, foam and cover, be nice for 77/782E. Couldn't find the speedsport unless it's speedandsportinc

My first post on this problem, when still distraught and dismayed was assuring enough that it can be done, but yea "some welders" is the key, need to ask the right questions, the right welder to get it done right. Thanks for the resp! Excellent info, thanks for the help. I have my own theory though on the 2 parts of the Crankcase having been broken in together, worn in and warped and so on for the life of 15,000 miles that I prefer not to replace just lower half of case. Plus I'm just plain cheap Not sure on relevance of that idea, but am still cheap, convinced it's fixable. hmmmm, this "wet honing" sounds like just the ticket, not familiar enough to have known of that. Definitely to consider! I really was not planning on taking the bike or any parts to a shop with exception of tires and wheel spokes. Still time to look into that, probably won't be quite that price I'm thinking but maybe close to that and sounds well worth it if there's not a simple effective positively safe way to get done myself. Many Thanks!

wonder of wonders, I had at some time past gone to trouble of copy/pasting to Notepad part of an old post to remind myself of good solid and wise advice. The key words wellseal and 3 bond jogged memory of this, as follows So the Ultra-Copper Permatex prob. not the way to go, wish I still had the receipt.

I've been told to eat more bran actually but yea, Drewpy I cut out some gaskets discarding what was left of the old ones. Wasn't sure about using for clutch cover, but now I know. Then there's the case itself and if I rem. Haynes says sealant or goo, not metal, cork, paper edit: oh, about inquiring as to diff uses of all the products, just out of curiosity mostly, and thought someone could input on what color they use for what.

Hey Squared off, you mean dohc (2 cams? overhead)? From an XS400? that'd be 82-84*

My contribution to the community so far is what NOT to do; I suspect this to have gone unheeded after reading a recent post about someone trying the same thing - Kickstart/spring problem and having the case cover off. Although with clutch disengaged THIS is much less likely to happen: After getting the bike in April (using part of my tax refund) I planned on getting her running w/ minimal funds and mechanical fuss. Due to unforseen and unmindful circumstance a COMPLETE tear-down was obviously, without question a necessity. Turns out for the better since to do so, with no prior rebuilding exp. this idea was entirely daunting. So now, recently newbie to the blue-collar working world, I've torn it down and ready to comlpete the parts list compilation and start shopping for bearings, rings, seals and whatever I hopefully don't forget. BTW, I never did get a Clymer's so big love and thanks on YOC for the stickys, the Pioneer, and to YamaGod-Man for PDF of the Haynes. Not to mention all the mostly great, sometimes interesting, advice. I'll have loads of Q's and hopefully something to contribute in following weeks/months. Original goal was to be motoring by early July (I won't say the day), and now it's changed to sometime before the snow. A couple quick questions: What is the safest and best way to clean the barrels? Best gasket sealant for joining the case back together? (posted this question elsewhere (Bar hop) But first things first! How effective, what method of welding, what questions to ask, what to be mindful of when I go to have above picture-puzzle pieced together? Regards and thanks!!!!!

Thanks for the quick response, so can I have more or is there a limit? Permatex "Gasket Sealant"s and "Gasket Maker"s, Blue, Black, Grey, Copper, Magenta A link here for my own reference My link but what are some favorites for all varieties of applications, no pun intended. ***Main Question: I have Ultra Copper for my case halfs and assume that will be a-ok, or is there a better?

I forgot how long youre bike has sat etc. but for throttle cable etc I'm sure that you have one of these Cable Luber to start, and no frays or snags in the wire.

I'm new to forum(s) myself. I guess the tip-off would be that this is really a technical 'workshop' or better yet 'classics' section question. May I ask the same question for future upgrade possibility . . . . . . except for the cheaper part. Thanks

Here's one (or more): Can I use a make-my-own paper gasket from "Gasket Material" for alternator cover? The label reads "for automotive, industrial ... DO NOT EXCEED 350 (177) TEMPERATURE. Also can I use the same for clutch cover?? Oil strain/sump cover???

Doesn't seem that way. We are hoping so. This doesn't look bad Then Yamaha has the perfect bike for you. XJ6 Diversion F Euro version of FZ6R Not too bad on looks And eventually the R6 backmarkers can watch you do this

Full-faired sporting looks + rideable + manageable + sensible + affordable(bonus) =

As if that reply wasn't long enough . . My friend with the 87 Hurricane, btw, let another beginner borrow his bike with a passenger. They missed a curve and the psgr was killed. My first bike experience wasn't without incident (accident, but sounds better). A late Saturday night I was riding around with a girl (17) just cruising about the town. Her sister caught up to inform us that her mother wanted her home and was mad as hell. I took her home but the mean ol' mom was already out and on the hunt. She found me, we spoke briefly, her cussing me out so I rode off. She started chasing after me and we were approaching a red light. I breezed through the light then went through the gears, gone! Funny, about 80-100 yards from that intersection is a small uphill and by the time she crested the hill (I later enjoyed being told about in court) she couldn't even see me in the distance. So no problem. Then grabbed the stoppers from 130+ MPH to a near stop to make a simple 90 degree right turn at 10 or 15 MPH tops. Adrenalin still gong apparently, making this slow little turn, while still at a lean I got on the throttle, the tire spun, the bike hinged off to the left under me then caught and I highsided being flung over the top, bike landing on its left side. I had merely a fractured arm, no helmet. Very slow-speed wreck. The bike had minmal damage but was PLENTY spendy to fix (without labor). Less than a year later, after 4 1/2 years old, I let 'er go. I knew the bike and it's intricacies, mannerisms, weaknesses, strengths etc. I rode it from Minnesota to Texas and back. Same with other 600 mile trips to Milwaukee or other places and so on. But I never did any track time. If I got another sportbike, even with DTC, ABS, et. al, first destination would be the track. If you go with the R6 I'd say that should be the priority and first on your biking agenda - to know the bikes limitations and to know YOUR limitations in a controlled setting. In "sticking to your limits" you have to know your limits. I thought I did. (i'm a born again beginner myself). That's all. (I still love the FZX).

True Ttaskmaster. Also true. You sound cautious enough, and seem to "know your limits", so there shouldn't be any reason not to get the R6. I'd much prefer the Fazer over R6 . . and for sportbike -ahem, no comment on YOC. I mostly agree with all of the for-mentioned members' comments/opinions. I learned to rde when a friend bought a '87 Hurricane off the showroom floor for 3300 US dollars (those were the days). So naturally, I HAD to have one! That was when I was "bitten". But didn't get a bike until 3 yrs later and that year Kawi. came out with the '90 ZX-6 (ZZR) so then of course I had to have that one, after 3 years of drooling over CBR brochures. I mostly excercised proper caution. No outrageous stories of carving it up on backroads, trailbraking and sliding into curves then wheelieing out. Only occasional top speed on a straight or burnouts at a red light taking off smokin' on the green. Tires were more reasonably priced back then. I weigh (then and now) 140 lbs, that was a 750-sized and brawny heavy bike for a 600. (some people enjoyed pointing out those 2 facts). Not many problems, but that is still TOO many problems. Always the close calls, of course. Then a weekend night, entering a restaurant parking lot where kids were hangin out, the irresistible sudden urge for a handful of throttle and not so subtle release of clutch, hit a bump or pothole meantime. You've heard superlatives of a bike wanting to rip itself away from your grip; That's really what happened. Was jarred or jolted back toward the pillion, arms at full-stretch, right hand could only hold throttle in one position - wide open - and left couldn't reach the clutch lever. Basically holding on with the last knuckle of my fingers. All this in a milisecond. I don't have any idea how I recovered and regained control of the thing but my heart was in my throat and it stayed there for about 2 hours. Scared me shitless. I didn't let on (always in control) but someone even asked me 1/2 hr later why I looked so white and freaked out. In conclusion, I would have to agree, not a great beginner bike the R6, and for some beginners their 1st and last.

Still no clue and still learning this stuff, but what is working or more importantly not working right now? Seems there should be a Brown from fuse box to voltage regulator --- you would need one of those, as Drewpy made mention of: Same brown also splits off - toward the front- to the ignition switch; other brown - toward the front - might be the horn. The red/yellow and red/white might not be the problem; Sounds like soldered together by previous owner?? Hmmm, no idea. I'd start maybe with getting regulator properly wired in. Again, appreciate expert advise myself on electrical stuff and hope for you to get a knowledgeable solution.

touche! I do have an ass of a question since I logged on just for that. The folder icons on left of topics, when diff colors Blu DkBlu, Br, what's the diff there?