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Paper Mache Man

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Everything posted by Paper Mache Man

  1. Well I might try a 40 at some point but I can't go back to 35, it just doesn't start and I can't get out of 1st unless I'm running down hill (with choke off). I'm seriously considering the 40 as most dt200s running premix seem to do ok on it. I've seen a few people mention fowling etc on a 45 and bitchy problems on a 35 (although many people find it works fine - which is why I bought that size in the first place). Yeah all the checks are done, no leaks to speak of. The air filter could be a problem, it's not on at the moment. I've experimented with different (makeshift) air filters to check what effect the resistance has but it doesn't seem to affect the underlying problem. I'm talking basic stuff here, stockings and filter materials etc. Eventually I'll fix the original or get a pod filter. I know this will affect the idle, but I don't think it's related to the problem itself. Ok so to me it sounds like the pilot could do with a jump down to 40. Less fuel should mean less revs, just so long as the engine doesn't stall every time I touch the accelerator.
  2. Thanks for the interest guys. The crank seals appear ok but only externally - basically it's not spewing crap out the side of my bike. I will have to pull it apart eventually, I've just been putting it off until I source parts and save some cash. I'm planning to take it out next weekend so I'll need to decide if I can get it done before then. I've really been told enough times to check my seals though so I'll just have to do it lol... My carbi doesn't have a mixture screw unfortunately, the jets are set and don't allow adjustment, there is only the air screw after that. The slide doesn't seem too bad either but I've never seen a new slide so maybe it's worse than I think. Really just wanted to check it's not an issue with my jetting before I move onto the bigger items. Working on a bike this old 2nd hand can be interesting. I emptied a cup of rust (I kid you not) from my fuel tank the other day. How it was running without a fuel filter before is beyond me. Thanks guys.
  3. Ok, so I have a DT200R '88. It's an old dirt bike but it's scrubbing up nicely. I've been rooting around with the jets and finally got it working properly (it now starts 1st or 2nd kick and runs with the choke off). This is a big step up from a bike that was a complete bitch to start and stalled 500m down the road. Anyway, MY IDLE! I can't seem to get a nice smooth idle in the low revs. I can keep it so it will idle a bit too high than what I'd like and then if it goes a bit lower it goes a LOT lower and needs prodding to keep it ticking over. I'm not sure what choices I'm left with. The idle screw is very far in to keep it running, way more than I'd like but as soon as I turn it out it sputters and dies. I'd say that where it idles before it dies (normally about 5-10 seconds) is where I want the idle at. So what can I do? I've had to increase the pilot jet from 25 to 35 to now 45 in order to get the bike running ok-ish. 25 it just wouldn't start, or run without major issues. 35 it would start but with some difficulty and required the choke to run properly (choke off would cause a massive flat spot coming out of idle sometimes killing the motor). 45 it starts ok every time but I still can't nab the idle. So, I was thinking maybe a 40 would lean it out a bit and maybe raise the revs as a consequence? I don't know it's just what I've been told - I'm not sure it would do anything except make it blow a bit less smoke. What say you?
  4. Well I might not need to do it, maybe. I put in a 45 pilot and the bike seems to be running properly now. Runs with choke off properly now and also has no issues starting any more. I have a problem with my radiator though, it's leaking a bit - I get steam, can't see water drops so it must be small. Just wondering what the best way of dealing with this is. I put stop leak in but it hasn't stopped the leak. The water is boiling despite my pump working and the thermostat seeming to regulate properly. It seems to only boil once the bike has stopped and the internal pressure is relieved through the leak in the radiator...so it might not be that bad. However does anyone else get a temp warning when running the bike at idle(i.e. stationary) for about 15 minutes? I had to hose the rad down with water to prevent that happening. Once I drove off it was ok though. Any ideas?
  5. How much of the bike do I need to pull down to get to the crank seals? Any advice before I do so? Any parts/gaskets I'll need to replace as soon as I venture this way (i.e. use once items)? Found that despite having a lot of fuel in it, the tank wasn't putting any out...just the smallest trickle. Turns out what I was seeing was all reserve, no main. As soon as I filled the tank up the carbi started spewing it out again. Stupid mistake which has made the last week of troubleshooting close to useless. Also had another person mess with my carbi so gah...square one atm.
  6. So the rear axle is great now. I think I need to disassemble the swing arm and replace bearings/washers though as it's squeaking a lot. On to bigger problems though. I decided to give the spare carbi a go with the new pilot jet (35 instead of 25). It seems in alright nick and I gave it a good clean out...it was missing a few pieces and most of the o-rings needed replacing (all done). Right now I'm running a 35 pilot (1 turn out) and a 175 main. I got it up and running perfectly (really good response etc - no dead zone like with the 150 main) except that the idle was too low and the engine would stall when I let go (idle screw all the way in). It also ran great with the choke off - which it wouldn't do before. It was all a bit too good to be true though and it flooded after 5 mins with fuel dripping out the carbi pretty fast. Fixed the floats, put it all back and then nothing, bike wouldn't start. Checked spark, seemed to be getting a decent one (albeit yellowish but put this down to daylight). I came back to it yesterday and adjusted the main jet needle clip to try and raise the idle. I changed the clip from 2nd from the top to 2nd from the bottom so 2 down. Bike started first kick but responded very strangely. The idle seems to be surging from low to high revs and still wants to stall if I let go of the throttle. It also had a popping sound, as if it's misfiring (odd bang from the muffler too I think). I also noticed some fine misty smoke coming out from the bottom, that's really worried me. I think it must be the lower gasket or else the power valve. It's annoying because whilst leaning down I let go of the throttle and once the bike stalled I couldn't start it up again. So basically my bike will start once, stall (flooded presumably) and then not start again (presumably until I pull the carbi off and give it a breather). I'm just not having much luck, every time I go to fix one problem another one seems to come up. Undecided If anyone can give some advice...like yes the smoke means a leak somewhere which will make it misfire (instead of say, a weak spark)....or a reason as to why it keeps flooding (only reason I can think as to why it will start once only) that would be great. More than happy to rip this thing down step by step testing as I go. Main issue now is that if I can't reliably start the bike I cant see what affect my changes are having. Main changes/stuff checked so far have been: Pilot jet changed from 25 (all the way in) to 35 (1 turn out). Main jet changed from 150 to 175 Different carbi (pretty massive I know but at least the choke works on this one) Spark plug pick up and leads checked - spark at plug checked (fires 2-3 times on each kick) Checked and adjusted floats - petrol level same as pilot/main jet base height (using clear tube on a level surface) Things to do: Get new spark plug (currently B9ES...getting BR8ES) Check effect of raising/lowering main needle clip Check effect of turning pilot in/out (previously results in bad results) Check source of smoke (gasket or power valve) Check effect of manually adjusting power valve Check effect of autolube system (connected but not in use/running pre-mix = source of air?) Check electrics (ugh, not so keen on this one) Put rubber around right footpeg to save on shoes.....(seriously I've wrecked 2 pairs) Ok so that's where I'm at. If I can't get anywhere I'll pull the motor apart and check it out (I've never seen inside it so it could be ratsh_t). I've been putting it off because I don't want to fork out for a new head gasket just for a look see but at this stage it's probably stupid not to.
  7. I've found this forum a good resource for all things old and Yamaha. You really just need a workshop manual for it though or at the very least a parts manual.
  8. I actually took it out this weekend. I'm having some pretty confusing issues right now. When it runs, it's running much better and I can even run it with the choke off although the idle is too low and will stall the motor so I need to adjust the clip. Before it would just die regardless though so it's improved things somewhat. The hardest thing is just starting the damn thing! It also just kept dying sporadically but I think I fixed the underlying issue there. I think I had a weak spark so I replaced the sparky only to find much the same with the new one. Ended up stripping down the pickup coil and found I got a much stronger spark and the bike is a *bit* better at starting. That's really my biggest beaf at the moment. The damn thing just refuses to start. I've gone through everything I can think of and am really at my wits end now. I think I'll have to check the crank seals just to rule that out. I've checked: Fuel pre-mix ratio - leaning it out (from somewhere around 1:20 to maybe 1:40 - planning to run 1:35) seemed to help the start and remove the plug fouling although fouling was only really evident on the new plug. Pilot Jet - now 35 and the engine is running much better in the low range, currently set at half a turn out - couldn't start it all the way in or 1.5 turns out. Floats - discovered these were jamed in the case. Messed with them and they now work as they should (had fuel pissing out everywhere at one point thanks to this). Carbi - is clean Air Jet - not having any real affect Main Jet - shows 75 but I think it should be 175...the 1 looks like a scratch from a flat head though so I'm seriously confused about that. General electrical check - all the wires seem ok but the spark plug lead had some gum around it and some connections had a lot of grit in the sockets...I've cleaned out the main components. So yeah, bike is still hard to start. Although it seems better it also can go 20 or 30 kicks without starting which is *extremely* frustrating in 40C heat. I ended up getting a tow more than once. I haven't looked at the power valve yet. Also do I need to get a sparkplug with R in the numbers? I'm hearing conflicting things, some reckon it's just for radio interference whilst others suggest not having one will fry the power valve servo.
  9. Ok so I think it's been rebored (well I know it has) but not too 250cc. I'm going to pull the power valve out and take a look at it. I have 2 questions. Does the power valve need to be modified during the reboring process (i.e. to fit inline with the larger cylinder) or is it fine left how it is. I'm not sure what's happened there. I just don't want to 'fix' the power valve so it's working but find it explodes my engine as soon as it rotates for the first time. Secondly, we use 12V battery packs at work for spotlighting. I'm assuming I can use one of these to check the power valve operation and perhaps even fit one to my bike. They are sealed lead-acid units rated at 12V7.5Ah/20HR. Generic crap that probably wont be any good in the long term (I can't just nick the good ones after all, these are the ones no longer holding a charge over 20 mins etc).
  10. Hey guys, I've recently bought a DT200R '88 and am working through the process of bringing it up to roadworthy status. The first hurdle is getting it working mechanically speaking as it has a few niggles here and there. It has apparently been bored out to 250cc so in this respect should be fairly newish engine wise (new gaskets etc). The first problem one is to do with the carbi (I hope). It refuses to run if the choke is off. It feels like it's running too lean so I'm trying a new pilot jet (current is 25, new is 35) to see if that helps things along. I have a small leak in the radiator, but I'm hoping stop leak will fix that. Removing the rear wheel was a *nightmare*. The thing would NOT budge even after all the screws had been removed. I had to virtually chisel it off the rear forks. I'm thinking all the gunk that's no doubt been left in it for years is the cause. I'm hoping now it's off I'll be able to get in there with WD40 and free the main shaft from all the bearings/spacers/wheel and give it all a good clean out and regreasing. ANYWAY.... My main quick question for now is to do with the power valve. When I accelerate the valve doesn't move at all. It seems ok to move myself although I didn't disconnect it first to really see (I'll do this tomorrow). The real thing I'm wondering about though is will the servo operate without a battery? The manual for this bike says there is a battery but mine doesn't have one. The was apparently working until a wire fell out (although I still get highbeam showing in the dash) but that's it as far as the electrics go. What I'm trying to work out is how much of the electrics are dependant on having a battery. I also wanted to know how dependant the power valve is on the ignition system (which has been stripped out). The workshop guide I have is for a 125 and doesn't get into the powervalve because they were restricted in the UK. So I'm at a bit of a loss with this one issue. If anyone can shed some light on this I'd appreciate it!
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