skinvandal

hi guys! i'm rebuilding an old '86 FZR1000, (genesis?) the crank looks a bit minging so i set about looking for one, there's a few 750 ones on ebay, but my manual says the stroke is different between the 750 and the 1000. - i just thought the bore was bigger? does anyone have any enlightenment on the subject? have you tried interchanging them etc? in short... will a 750 crank fit into a 1000? i'd have said not, but some i have spoken to say "they're all the bloody same!" "shame on you" "get off my garden" "stop it you dirty b£$ta%d!" and other things.. helpy-helpy-verry happy. jim

Thanks bud! got sorted in the end, changed the carbs and everything worked fine. rather confusing i know, but i'm guessing it was some microscopic clearance thing in the slides. i started swapping carb internals around and got some puzzling results, so i bought a second hand set and tried them on. voila! it was a right pain in the ass, but i guess fault finding can be like that... i shouldn't get cross as it's a hobby but i was getting there. still... all's well that ends well. thanks for all the tips guys!

ooo... maybe i'm overselling myself... i've just got a beer-belly.

nah, all valves holding pressure, everything moving as it should, valve wise. i've done some more fault-finding and i'm getting confident one or both of the coil packs are faulty. i've checked, traced and proven every wire in the ignition system, and they're all fine, i've even had all the switches off, tested and cleaned to no avail. the primary resistance on both pack are spot on and balanced (across the common and trigger wires) and the secondary resistances (i.e up the ht lead to across the other) are within spec. one pack runs pots 1&3, the other 2&4, the bike's currently running on 2&4, but if you unplug the coil that provides these pots the engine still runs and pots 1&3 start to warm up. electricity is like water innit? it finds the easiest route to earth, i'm wondering if there's some sort of imbalance under load, and the 1&3 coil is shorting. this would explain why 2&3 warm up when 1&4 are disconnected, BUT... they're measuring the same readings and the manual says that's ok. what the blarney's going on??? anyone???

thanks buddy, i'll try that...

got a spare under-guard if you're still looking dave. plus some other bits from the back-end bodywork wise. giz a shout if you're struggling. also for snapped bleed nipples i've used a plain old stud-extractor to wind them out. drill it as wide as about half way up your extractor tho,-use the thickest one you can without drilling through threads. if you've snapped a drill bit into it it's a job for some patience and a very sharp centre punch- tap it anti-clockwise. i've always found cellulose thinners 100 times better than (and more flammable than) WD40. a little heat (don't use a flame- i use a paint-stripping gun) always helps. is it possible to split the caliper and attack it from the inside? oh and "spares unlimited" in hull are breaking said bike, they may have some calipers in. hope it helps! jim

sweet! i'm a large. well... curvatious...voluptuous maybe...

hiya! right... i've just spent my evenings rebuilding an old fzr 600 (3he) it'd been down the road and i fancied a streetfighter so it got the treatment. Behold! i've got as far as the last 5% and i'm struggling... the bike will start and run, but has no power. after running it for a while it's apparent (by the temperature of the exhaust downpipes) that cylinders 1&3 ain't firing. the carbs have been off and cleaned spotless...jets blown out and diaphragms checked etc. there IS a spark on 1@3, i know i've had them out and seen a fat blue spark out of each plug, when you hold your palm over the carb inlets there's a sucking so they're drawing fuel. i've done a whole load of checks on the ignition system, but this bike came as a none-runner, me and a mate got the engine started before i restored it but didn't think to check each cylinder... so... firstly... anyone know the firing order? i'm trying to prove it's one of the coil packs, as they feed 1&3 and 2&4 respectively, but the electronical and resistance tests seem to be well within tolerances i'm just wondering if the previous owners swapped spark plug leads or something? i've got a manual (not haynes) and despite reading from cover to cover i can't find this info. also as your sat on the bike, your left is cylinder one, and your right 4. correct? i'm thinking cylinders 1@3 have the spark delivered at the wrong time, but if 2&4 are firing that further proves the fault to be in the wiring or a problem with coil pack one. they're cut to the right length And numbered, but the more i think about it the more i need to check what's going on. i'm aware the firing order is probably something like 1342 or 1243 but if that's the case are cylinders 2&4 firing at the same time? i.e they both go suck, squeeze, bang, blow together? they must, cos there's only 2 wires to each pack and they feed 2 cylinders.... hmm... any assistance would be gratefully received. i only wanted something to have a go at airbrushing with, and it's way too small for me so i need rid, and i don't want to sell it unless it's spot-on cheers jim

hi guys, just to introduce myself, i'm jim, i live in hornsea (yorkshire) got a couple of yam's and i thought i'd join up. i'm looking for some help with a few issues, so i'll see you in the workshop...