steptoe1111

well were going again guys, here is a pick of the magneto I smashed the magnets in, just had to be bad luck to do this amount of damage people spin there stators all the time and never had or seen this any way had to mix and match some parts, little bit of stuffing around but all worth it in the end ... any way spent the last hour making this ........ hope this helps others fix or understand more about there ignition timing aswell (stator screw fell out and jammed in the coil gap shatterd two magnets) late model 6 wire stator will run on the early magneto with no probs at all very nicely, but new slot locations need to be drilled in the stator to find tdc, firstly.... I used a dial indicator and measured the piston at 1.8mm BTDC, because im using the original flywheel the marks line up with the casing pull the spark plug out connect it back to the lead and rest it inbetween the fins on the head this should ground the plug secondly.. get your timing light out, you will have to run it off a separate power source like a spare 12v batt, put a 19mm on the flywheel nut connect it to a cordless drill and spin the engine counter clockwise (you will need atlest 200rpm to create a decent spark to fire the timing light) when it does flash you need to find your flywheel TDC mark (wich could be anywhere in most cases) , mark the casing in relation to where TDC on the flywheel is showing under the timing light flash (the diference in alingnment between the two mags notice the diference in the keyways between the two ) thirdly.... once that is done and your new timing mark is there, set the original timing marks back to factory and mesure the distance from you factory TDC mark to the one you made just before with the strobe light, this will tell you how far your stator is out and has to be adjusted! , it pointed me to where some factory scribed holes were located (they obviously used the same plate on lots of diferent models and drilled them accordingly) "as did I" when I rechecked the timing it was dead on ;) i dident need to but............... I like to a have a little bit of adjustment.... so I sloted em THIS IS VERY ACURATE going by eye mine was fireing at 140 degrees BTDC and kicking back when turned her over so this is why I leave the plug out so theres no compresion ..... "also means no broken ankles or kickstarters from kick back or bike screemin off from under you backwards ....... although that would be quite funny to see

played around a bit with it this morn by joining those two coils gave me 6ohms but did not match the 10ohm the later sorce coil mesures , so no I don't think you can run a 7 wire stator off a 6 wire cdi , but you can run a 6 wire stator with the earlier two slot magneto I found out the timing marks on the 6 wire stator don't match, up so im going to have to ballpark the timing to get it running and then put a light on it and time her up "and I actualy put some lock tight on the stator screws this time"

yeah me to mate maybe im thinking to much into it, and should just hook it up and see what happens and post the results ... I mean I got 2 X engines that are now cactus..... and for what the bikes are worth over here I could buy another one complet running for the cost of 3 magnetos or cdi units I tried soaking the old cdi in methel ethel keytone "MEK" for a week two see whats goin on inside the 7 wire cdi but.....35 year old cured resin is preety hard to dissolve ill hook it up like I said above tomorrow and post the results that computer controlled timing advance and cdi kit might be the go I think should work on any thing with an ac altanator providing 0-300volts a/c pluss provide 32 degrees of advance the micro controller can be had on ebay for a couple of dollars and every thing else should be avail at the local electronics store

hey guys how is everyone great I hope I thought I broke a piston skirt or a ring and it got stuck in the port or something, cause the engine locked up, but I turned out one of the screws holding my stator plate on had come loose and was tumbling around in there, unfortunately it smashed two of my flywheel magnets it was a mk2 flywheel with the four slots I had put on a "78" motor cause I blew a coil on the old stator , any way I got another coil off a friend of mine and will have to put that back in there so I will be running the stator with the low and high speed coils wich requires the 7 wire cdi wich got damaged when the high speed coil blew I did some research and found out that the high and low speed coil operate as one coil, so could I possibly run a 6 wire cdi on it by connecting those two wires together without blowing it (ive forgotten what the ohms reading are for those two coils I know the high speed is 13ohms and the low speed 4or 5 I think but because those two coils are wired up in parallel according to ohms law you can subtract the value of the low speed coil from the high speed coil and of the top of my head should be within ball park of what the single coil on the later mk2 stator should be 9ohms, so in theory it should work unless the 7 wire is CDI type and the 6 wire is TDI type ? if it wont work I was goin to build a simple diy joby is the engine speed timing advance controlled by the cdi or ive heard some engines use something built into the triggering coil if the timing is operated by the cdi I will need to build this can be done for around 10bucs and has a micro controller that will program a variable time delay on the trigger coil that to operate the advance and retard this site here have the diagrams for what I intend on building if all else fails it has the simple cdi circuit plus the computer controlled advance circuit http://www.sportdevices.com/ignition/ignition.htm#CDI

ill pm ya mate

cheers airhead ill put em in my favourate list in IE off topic ... do you or any other people here have any experience with "or have done ther own" rewinding of the source or high speed coils on the stator plate ??? Id like to repair my old stator and prepaired to rewind it myself or give it a go anyway, ill make a new post on the subject anyhow, may take me a couple of weeks but ill let you all know how this later model engine goes to ... im hopeing it hammers thanks a lot guys

you might be right again paul that casting that I said sais YZ stamped on the cylinder may actualy be Y-2 so if its all factory DT175U then well im still glad its an MX wich will still be a decent upgrade on the plain jane DT175e I have at the moment anyway

thanks for the replys guys I was fairly certain its a dt bottom end but in the photo above you can see the letters YZ stamped on the bottom of the cylinder that's what made me think its a yz175 cylinder I knew from doing a little reading that they only made the yz175 for a year or two back in "76" but it had me curious as to why someone would put a "1976" barrel on a "85" model bottom end I heard about people putting it175 top ends on DT bottom ends as a performance mod because the porting on the IT cylinder is meant to be heaps better I thought someone has done something along those lines with this on the LH intake side there is some more casting numbers that read 18L00 does that help confirm what type of cylinder it is genuine DT or YZ? if it is a YZ top end I was thinking I may have something special that someone in the past had spent a lot of time on to make something that would leave almost every other DT for dead but if it isn't well the then I still got a wicked motor anyhow in much better condition than my 175E and its an MX too :) (im pretty excited anyway to see what the diference is hopefully more power and some 2nd and 3rd gear wheelies would be cool to cheers to paul I wouldent have known it was a DT175U model that will come in handy when I order the crank seals im going to replace just to be on the safe side

ive been doing a little more reading ... have I got a complete yz175 engine here? the guy advertised it as dt175 "78" model engine but said he pulled it from a dt125 frame wich made me think it dt lower end with yz top end but im not completely sure im not sure if this bloke realy new much about the engine either! I checked the engine no wich is 1EJ-009201 according to this here http://dropbears.com/y/yamaha/modelcodes.htm the bottom end is definatly a dt175n "85" model

hey guys just wondering if someone can tell me a little about this engine i picked up for my dt? i have a 1978 dt175e it is the mk1 7wire cdi type with the rounded section swing arm with mono shock now i was having trouble with miy high speed coil on the stator and was getting a week spark it was bogging out above 2500rpm so i started looking for replacement stator plates only to find people want $160 pluss for them! the local bike shop had a flywheel and stator off a mx100 but he wanted $175 i ended up telling him to leave it last week i got a complete used engine of ebay for $150 localy i ran engine numbers to find out its 1985 model it has a mk11 flywheel with the 4 slots in it and i was able to fit it to the 78 dt175e (i got the cdi aswell its a 6 wire type) after alot of playin around to get the timing right its going pretty well it took a bit of playing around to find the right timing as there were no marking indicating TDC ad the mk11 flyheel and stator both have ther keyways about 90degrees off compared to the mk1 so i ruffly mesure 1.8mm BTDC and started there but all thats good and were running better than i thought anyway after noticeing the almost 2mm top ring end gap i had the engine apart and dident even bother to use the feelers becaus it obviously waaaay too big but surprising still runs now i had both engines apart this morning i was hoping to fit the later 85 model top end to my 77 lower end because the 85 topend is almost emaculate condition but i ran into some problems doing that i relised that the topend that is on this later model dt is actualy from a YZ175 i reasembled both motors and got my old going again but i would love to try this new one out but im going to have to swap the complete engines over the truoble i ran into was the transfure ports are larger and overlap the flange on the earlyer dt case so they are not compatible but what can i expect from this other engine? ive already looked at the inside and it has much larger transfure ports than the early dt's, larger intake ,bigger reeds, and a boost bottle and apart from almost perfect compresion and a emaculate bore and piston "wich im sure i will notice" whats the main benifit of the haveing the YZ topend on the dt botom? was it a performance mod back in the day? or has somone just done it caus it fits and the had the bits already? ive added some photos of the engine the last one is the dt175e the older model [url=http://s647.photobucket.com/user/steptoe1111/media/IMG_20141009_112223_zpscf607986.jpg.html]

ok well a few days late but i got a few spare hours to fool around in the shed today it seems i have a 7 wire cdi with the round swing arm so i have a mk1 i did some pokeing around with the digital multimeter and: Disconnected all the wires from the CDI. Then using my multimeter on the loom side of the connectors. ignition coil primary 1 ohm ignition coil secondry 5.95k ohm Black probe on a clean part of HT coil ground point Red probe on...... orange 1ohm brown .385k ohm for the charge coil ?? "unsure about this one" white/red 11.4 ohms red 8.9 ohms Source coil 2 or high speed coil should be 13.6ohms im only reading 8.9 does this sound likely to be the culprit ? apart from that do my other readings seem ok ?

I used to have a "84" rd400 highly collectable bikes very revy and whippy bike light to good hear yours is on the road not many are in Australia anyway two thumbs up :)

Thanks a lot airhead I'll try to do those checks tomorrow mate and post what I find cheers mate

Hey guys got a problem with my "77"dt175e I've got a very poor spark , it started happening the other week ....what I initially thought may have been some bad gas or the main jet had maybe sucked up a little blockage ... I cleaned the the carb out thougherly like I've done many times but didn't help ... Then I started looking at the electrics and found I've got a very week spark , I've had the plug out many times and it only needs a little turn by hand on the kick starter to get a nice bright strong spark ....only now you really have to spin that motor up fast to get a little one, The bike is running if you can roll start it fast enough hard to keep it idleing and the motor dies above 2500rpm At the time it started playing up I was doing a few jumps at home in the paddock nothing extreme only a couple of feet I thought maybe I had cracked a ring or done something to the crank ....I wasn't putting her under a lot of stress I never do cause she's fourth years old But I still have enough compresion well 85psi + So I pulled the flywheel and I had noticed that the smaller of the two coils on the stator plate (on the right hand side of the pick below the two coils large one with the smaller one bolted on top of it). Had twisted now whether or not that's from hitting the inside of the magneto I'm not sure ....but I think most likely from heat maybe? Now I had been running the bike without a headlight no battery and no regulator only the tail light was hooked up ....due to the wireing system being a mess. ..... I only just discovers is meant to be a big no no From closer inspection my lightning coil that supply power to the battery and headlight was black and looked fairly cooked. But I'm that still works. But on the dt175e they don't require that one to run the ignition system releys on the other two coils I have included a pick of the stator for I'd. "Its not a points/condenser type" Does any one know what the ohms readings should be on those two coils there is also a small square one about the size of your finger tip at the top of the stator in the middle between the lighting and two source coils I'm not sure what that is and the reading for the ignition coil ? I was under the assumption that with ignition coils and cdi units they either work or they don't so I'm geusing that one of those source coils is failing under load maybe? If any one could help with those readings I'll get the multimeter onto em soon as and post the readings Or if anyone has had similar problems and could possibly shed a bit of light on what my problem with the old girl could be I'd be greatly appreciative thank you http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu196/steptoe1111/PICT0754_zps9ef832c6.jpg

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