steptoe1111

well were going again guys, here is a pick of the magneto I smashed the magnets in, just had to be bad luck to do this amount of damage people spin there stators all the time and never had or seen this any way had to mix and match some parts, little bit of stuffing around but all worth it in the end ... any way spent the last hour making this ........ hope this helps others fix or understand more about there ignition timing aswell (stator screw fell out and jammed in the coil gap shatterd two magnets) late model 6 wire stator will run on the early magneto with no probs at all very nicely, but new slot locations need to be drilled in the stator to find tdc, firstly.... I used a dial indicator and measured the piston at 1.8mm BTDC, because im using the original flywheel the marks line up with the casing pull the spark plug out connect it back to the lead and rest it inbetween the fins on the head this should ground the plug secondly.. get your timing light out, you will have to run it off a separate power source like a spare 12v batt, put a 19mm on the flywheel nut connect it to a cordless drill and spin the engine counter clockwise (you will need atlest 200rpm to create a decent spark to fire the timing light) when it does flash you need to find your flywheel TDC mark (wich could be anywhere in most cases) , mark the casing in relation to where TDC on the flywheel is showing under the timing light flash (the diference in alingnment between the two mags notice the diference in the keyways between the two ) thirdly.... once that is done and your new timing mark is there, set the original timing marks back to factory and mesure the distance from you factory TDC mark to the one you made just before with the strobe light, this will tell you how far your stator is out and has to be adjusted! , it pointed me to where some factory scribed holes were located (they obviously used the same plate on lots of diferent models and drilled them accordingly) "as did I" when I rechecked the timing it was dead on ;) i dident need to but............... I like to a have a little bit of adjustment.... so I sloted em THIS IS VERY ACURATE going by eye mine was fireing at 140 degrees BTDC and kicking back when turned her over so this is why I leave the plug out so theres no compresion ..... "also means no broken ankles or kickstarters from kick back or bike screemin off from under you backwards ....... although that would be quite funny to see

played around a bit with it this morn by joining those two coils gave me 6ohms but did not match the 10ohm the later sorce coil mesures , so no I don't think you can run a 7 wire stator off a 6 wire cdi , but you can run a 6 wire stator with the earlier two slot magneto I found out the timing marks on the 6 wire stator don't match, up so im going to have to ballpark the timing to get it running and then put a light on it and time her up "and I actualy put some lock tight on the stator screws this time"

yeah me to mate maybe im thinking to much into it, and should just hook it up and see what happens and post the results ... I mean I got 2 X engines that are now cactus..... and for what the bikes are worth over here I could buy another one complet running for the cost of 3 magnetos or cdi units I tried soaking the old cdi in methel ethel keytone "MEK" for a week two see whats goin on inside the 7 wire cdi but.....35 year old cured resin is preety hard to dissolve ill hook it up like I said above tomorrow and post the results that computer controlled timing advance and cdi kit might be the go I think should work on any thing with an ac altanator providing 0-300volts a/c pluss provide 32 degrees of advance the micro controller can be had on ebay for a couple of dollars and every thing else should be avail at the local electronics store

hey guys how is everyone great I hope I thought I broke a piston skirt or a ring and it got stuck in the port or something, cause the engine locked up, but I turned out one of the screws holding my stator plate on had come loose and was tumbling around in there, unfortunately it smashed two of my flywheel magnets it was a mk2 flywheel with the four slots I had put on a "78" motor cause I blew a coil on the old stator , any way I got another coil off a friend of mine and will have to put that back in there so I will be running the stator with the low and high speed coils wich requires the 7 wire cdi wich got damaged when the high speed coil blew I did some research and found out that the high and low speed coil operate as one coil, so could I possibly run a 6 wire cdi on it by connecting those two wires together without blowing it (ive forgotten what the ohms reading are for those two coils I know the high speed is 13ohms and the low speed 4or 5 I think but because those two coils are wired up in parallel according to ohms law you can subtract the value of the low speed coil from the high speed coil and of the top of my head should be within ball park of what the single coil on the later mk2 stator should be 9ohms, so in theory it should work unless the 7 wire is CDI type and the 6 wire is TDI type ? if it wont work I was goin to build a simple diy joby is the engine speed timing advance controlled by the cdi or ive heard some engines use something built into the triggering coil if the timing is operated by the cdi I will need to build this can be done for around 10bucs and has a micro controller that will program a variable time delay on the trigger coil that to operate the advance and retard this site here have the diagrams for what I intend on building if all else fails it has the simple cdi circuit plus the computer controlled advance circuit http://www.sportdevices.com/ignition/ignition.htm#CDI

ill pm ya mate

cheers airhead ill put em in my favourate list in IE off topic ... do you or any other people here have any experience with "or have done ther own" rewinding of the source or high speed coils on the stator plate ??? Id like to repair my old stator and prepaired to rewind it myself or give it a go anyway, ill make a new post on the subject anyhow, may take me a couple of weeks but ill let you all know how this later model engine goes to ... im hopeing it hammers thanks a lot guys

you might be right again paul that casting that I said sais YZ stamped on the cylinder may actualy be Y-2 so if its all factory DT175U then well im still glad its an MX wich will still be a decent upgrade on the plain jane DT175e I have at the moment anyway

thanks for the replys guys I was fairly certain its a dt bottom end but in the photo above you can see the letters YZ stamped on the bottom of the cylinder that's what made me think its a yz175 cylinder I knew from doing a little reading that they only made the yz175 for a year or two back in "76" but it had me curious as to why someone would put a "1976" barrel on a "85" model bottom end I heard about people putting it175 top ends on DT bottom ends as a performance mod because the porting on the IT cylinder is meant to be heaps better I thought someone has done something along those lines with this on the LH intake side there is some more casting numbers that read 18L00 does that help confirm what type of cylinder it is genuine DT or YZ? if it is a YZ top end I was thinking I may have something special that someone in the past had spent a lot of time on to make something that would leave almost every other DT for dead but if it isn't well the then I still got a wicked motor anyhow in much better condition than my 175E and its an MX too :) (im pretty excited anyway to see what the diference is hopefully more power and some 2nd and 3rd gear wheelies would be cool to cheers to paul I wouldent have known it was a DT175U model that will come in handy when I order the crank seals im going to replace just to be on the safe side

ive been doing a little more reading ... have I got a complete yz175 engine here? the guy advertised it as dt175 "78" model engine but said he pulled it from a dt125 frame wich made me think it dt lower end with yz top end but im not completely sure im not sure if this bloke realy new much about the engine either! I checked the engine no wich is 1EJ-009201 according to this here http://dropbears.com/y/yamaha/modelcodes.htm the bottom end is definatly a dt175n "85" model

hey guys just wondering if someone can tell me a little about this engine i picked up for my dt? i have a 1978 dt175e it is the mk1 7wire cdi type with the rounded section swing arm with mono shock now i was having trouble with miy high speed coil on the stator and was getting a week spark it was bogging out above 2500rpm so i started looking for replacement stator plates only to find people want $160 pluss for them! the local bike shop had a flywheel and stator off a mx100 but he wanted $175 i ended up telling him to leave it last week i got a complete used engine of ebay for $150 localy i ran engine numbers to find out its 1985 model it has a mk11 flywheel with the 4 slots in it and i was able to fit it to the 78 dt175e (i got the cdi aswell its a 6 wire type) after alot of playin around to get the timing right its going pretty well it took a bit of playing around to find the right timing as there were no marking indicating TDC ad the mk11 flyheel and stator both have ther keyways about 90degrees off compared to the mk1 so i ruffly mesure 1.8mm BTDC and started there but all thats good and were running better than i thought anyway after noticeing the almost 2mm top ring end gap i had the engine apart and dident even bother to use the feelers becaus it obviously waaaay too big but surprising still runs now i had both engines apart this morning i was hoping to fit the later 85 model top end to my 77 lower end because the 85 topend is almost emaculate condition but i ran into some problems doing that i relised that the topend that is on this later model dt is actualy from a YZ175 i reasembled both motors and got my old going again but i would love to try this new one out but im going to have to swap the complete engines over the truoble i ran into was the transfure ports are larger and overlap the flange on the earlyer dt case so they are not compatible but what can i expect from this other engine? ive already looked at the inside and it has much larger transfure ports than the early dt's, larger intake ,bigger reeds, and a boost bottle and apart from almost perfect compresion and a emaculate bore and piston "wich im sure i will notice" whats the main benifit of the haveing the YZ topend on the dt botom? was it a performance mod back in the day? or has somone just done it caus it fits and the had the bits already? ive added some photos of the engine the last one is the dt175e the older model [url=http://s647.photobucket.com/user/steptoe1111/media/IMG_20141009_112223_zpscf607986.jpg.html]

ok well a few days late but i got a few spare hours to fool around in the shed today it seems i have a 7 wire cdi with the round swing arm so i have a mk1 i did some pokeing around with the digital multimeter and: Disconnected all the wires from the CDI. Then using my multimeter on the loom side of the connectors. ignition coil primary 1 ohm ignition coil secondry 5.95k ohm Black probe on a clean part of HT coil ground point Red probe on...... orange 1ohm brown .385k ohm for the charge coil ?? "unsure about this one" white/red 11.4 ohms red 8.9 ohms Source coil 2 or high speed coil should be 13.6ohms im only reading 8.9 does this sound likely to be the culprit ? apart from that do my other readings seem ok ?

I used to have a "84" rd400 highly collectable bikes very revy and whippy bike light to good hear yours is on the road not many are in Australia anyway two thumbs up :)

Thanks a lot airhead I'll try to do those checks tomorrow mate and post what I find cheers mate

Hey guys got a problem with my "77"dt175e I've got a very poor spark , it started happening the other week ....what I initially thought may have been some bad gas or the main jet had maybe sucked up a little blockage ... I cleaned the the carb out thougherly like I've done many times but didn't help ... Then I started looking at the electrics and found I've got a very week spark , I've had the plug out many times and it only needs a little turn by hand on the kick starter to get a nice bright strong spark ....only now you really have to spin that motor up fast to get a little one, The bike is running if you can roll start it fast enough hard to keep it idleing and the motor dies above 2500rpm At the time it started playing up I was doing a few jumps at home in the paddock nothing extreme only a couple of feet I thought maybe I had cracked a ring or done something to the crank ....I wasn't putting her under a lot of stress I never do cause she's fourth years old But I still have enough compresion well 85psi + So I pulled the flywheel and I had noticed that the smaller of the two coils on the stator plate (on the right hand side of the pick below the two coils large one with the smaller one bolted on top of it). Had twisted now whether or not that's from hitting the inside of the magneto I'm not sure ....but I think most likely from heat maybe? Now I had been running the bike without a headlight no battery and no regulator only the tail light was hooked up ....due to the wireing system being a mess. ..... I only just discovers is meant to be a big no no From closer inspection my lightning coil that supply power to the battery and headlight was black and looked fairly cooked. But I'm that still works. But on the dt175e they don't require that one to run the ignition system releys on the other two coils I have included a pick of the stator for I'd. "Its not a points/condenser type" Does any one know what the ohms readings should be on those two coils there is also a small square one about the size of your finger tip at the top of the stator in the middle between the lighting and two source coils I'm not sure what that is and the reading for the ignition coil ? I was under the assumption that with ignition coils and cdi units they either work or they don't so I'm geusing that one of those source coils is failing under load maybe? If any one could help with those readings I'll get the multimeter onto em soon as and post the readings Or if anyone has had similar problems and could possibly shed a bit of light on what my problem with the old girl could be I'd be greatly appreciative thank you http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu196/steptoe1111/PICT0754_zps9ef832c6.jpg

http://youtu.be/vH9krKmgk8o

http://youtu.be/pb38aa8ho7s

it might be an arcade machine but its my first crack at a manometer and balanceing carbs to, and its the the theory and cheepness of thing that i found nice and i think counts, cause i was gunna waste a $100 on a proper set but then i found these home made diy jobs, now seeing as these damm bikes are so bloody expencive and can be money pits sometimes (speacialy when you own one with with over 115.000kmh on the clock) "its gunna need some big cash dump't on it if you want it micky mouse so you can ring every horse avail" (apart from from 29 thousand dollar 25 pound boost mr.turbo kits and a full engine rebuild with hardend,lightwight,reground all the sht you wish you had but probably never will wich i dout id even get the chance to sit on one let alone own it....im saveing every PENNY i can "at least his machine dosent need emm.......... but anyway i was quite inspired and just thought maybe someone might see this post and it might help them also i mean what good is knowledge if you keep it to yourself.....got any better plans for a home made hand held without haveing to lern how to blow glass "wich is on the list of things to do but maybe when ive retired and got nothing better to do

hey guys how is everyone, how are you airhead been meaning to let you know how the dt175e went up against the yzf 250 well basicly i had him in the botom end but as soon as his bike started to advance and pull like a train he was a spec in the distance and i just endid up getting sprayed with dirt ha ha, but id rather be on the dt any day it gets a few more thumbs up from the oldies when you hammer it on a pass.. but just an off topic just made a home made manometer to balance the carbs on my kwaka dere i say it here on the yam forum but just thought i would post some pics and what i used i endid useing 10m of 5mm id clear hose cut into four sections(four carbs just block of two if only syncin twin carbs) all exactly the same length with elbows and t pieces at the base the theory behind it is it is filled with an oil generaly two stroke because it is easy to see in the tubes and you hook each tube up to the vecume manifold and from the readings of the hieght of the oil in each tube you can clearly work out if on cyl is pulling more air that the other there a many you tube vids of this design even of some in action i have not used mine yet but will soon i just need to install some mig welding tips into each airline to restrict the flow a touch otherwise it may suck up all the oil on that initial fire up but ill post the results from what i have read these are ment to be way more acurate than the vac dial gauges wich would set you back atleast a $100 and they would be the cheap ones too "acuracy and cheep dont often go together" here are my pics any way ... there are alot of people out there that have made these already and thats where i got my plans from but i just thought it was such a cheap and reliable tool to make that i went ahead with it and if someone comes scross my post and learns what i did from my imformation id be thrilled ... but is a must have tool for any d.i.y,er out there with more than one carburetta

cheers mate, i read every wher that these thin titanium header to heat up quite a bit due to the ultrathin light wight metal, and also because these things are so tweaked up from factory they like only to riden at 35 pluss kmh, to keep the wind goin through the radiator and motor to cool it down , but it was already chery red in 20 seconds just at idle but after more reading and reserch i have come to a conclushion that it my be what i thought in the beging(possibly)just a lean condition i am yet to clean the carb the cause ive been busy but i have read that the pilot jet likes to crap out on after a while clogs very easyly (the has been sitting a while) caus when you blip the throttle to get some more unburnt fuel trough the exaust it doesent cool it.... dosent turn to a glowing orange like it shoudl but just gets hoter and the red glow just spreads and im realy paranoid caus i dont want to burn a valve out,, they seem at the moment no poping or back fireing just red hot i havent mesured the clearences for tightness but im shure they are sealing

hey guys i got a yzf 250 here an "04"modlle that i dont think is quite right and im looking for any advice or info anybody could possibly shed on this problem, like i said above it has a problem with the exaust glowing red after a cold start and 20 seconds of idle , now its not my bike but its a freinds he only bought it a few days ago and we where planning a ride this weekend and i was going to drag the old "77"dt175e out and give a run for his money ..... but id thought it would be safer to try and see if this is normal or not...? a few people i have read about said that it is normal for the exaust to glow bright red but i would of expected that after a 5-10 minits of thrashing it is a high performance motor cross bike but not bright orange at startup within 20seconds at idle ....!! to me it seems like it has maybe burnt out an exaust valve or starting to maybe im not sure due to the design of these bikes ive only ever worken on old school stuff and have never wanted to work on and overhead cam but what els could cause this ?? i am able to take the rocker cover off and mesure the valve clearences and the carby should be due for clean as its been sitting for about a year so thats definatly on the cards but the only other things i can possibly think of woud be lean mixture ,exaust/intake restriction,bad water pump or lack off lubrication do they run plastic gears as oil pumps? ,,,i read you can check the presure by undoing a nut two turns and waiting for a bit oil to droop out so that will be done with the carby but any help or advice froom anyone is greatly apreciated as im not to up to date with these later modlle bikes thanks steptoe1111

i would agree with airhead why not rebuild the old motor it will keep it original and once your done youl probly have the fastest 250 on the block i did the same to my "77"dt175 and it hammers after almost 40 years she still keeps up and yeh change ya pet cock...to a fuel tap

hey guys how is everyone ive been planing on makeing a home made silencer for my 77dt 175 for a wile now and had an idea after a mate told me how some one used one of these to silence his riffle maybe use a big oilfilter from a car and just knocking a hole in the top of it and whacking it on the end of the expanshion chamber just wondering if anyone has tried this or does anybody recon it will work or will the paper in it burn any idea's anyone? i can make a proper strait through one from chicken wire fiber glass and a tin cylinder but the oil filter would be quicker less time consumeing and instead of repacking just buy a new one there cheap as

hi paul and everyone , how are you guys, in my last post explaind how i was intending to line up the piston to 1.8BTDC. ive made my tool to do this it took about half an hour to knock to gether, ive included a link to view a photo of it in action here it is http://yfrog.com/43p7100038j notice ive grinded a point on the end of the thred to make it more acurate and ive added a lock nut to the top to hold it true and ive locked the edges down by sandwiching them with two of the head bolts top en bottom so the whole think is rocksolid and set up just the way ive done in the photo with a feeler gauge ive found works just aswell as a dile gauge and alot cheeper to c ya's

ha ha cool this is what im thinking i can go about this insted of the dial gauge witch i could probly get for mayby 50 60 bucks im not sure what they cost but id rather keep that cash in my pocket im going to get a piece of box section and fit it across the top of the cylinder with the head removed, roughly 8-9 inches long center it in the midle across two of the head studs the dril two holes on each end to slip over two of the studs after that im going to dril a hole in the center of the box section where i think roughly the midle of the piston is then lock it down with some nuts, now if the piston is to low in the cylinder witch i think is the case, the top of the piston wont meet the botem of the flat edge of the clamped box section if it dose i can move the flat egde up and dow on the studs untill they meet to acheive TDC. if not! to get around this im thinking of quicly tack welding a nut over the hole in the center with my little gasless welder witch id be lost with out so i can thread some steel thread trough the nut to meet the top off the piston and then i should be able to find TDC after turning the moter and ajusting the hight of my steel thred untill it just touches the top of the piston then use my feeler gauge to put between the top of the piston and the bottom of my hight ajusterble thread turn the motor to meet it and bingo i should have 1.8BTDC i know this is probably the cave man way of going about it but hey the pyrimids were built with simple tools like this

hey guys how are you i was just trying to find out how to redard the timeing to spec 1.8mmBTDC for a dt175E/MX. i under stand how to line the piston i can do that easy with a strait edge across the top of the cylinder with the head removed and a feeler gauge but what els is involved? when i did the crank seal on the left i lined the magneto base plate up with the line marks on the uper right hand side and thought nothing more of it until i came across some thing i read in this forum recently, spinning the base plate is this how you alter the timeing if so is it just a case of lineing up the piston to spec then alinging the base plate up with the markers am on the right track thanks guys i couldent of done my rebuild without most of the help you guys thanks heaps shaun