cegan09

I started my rebuild project on the XS500, which should take me the better part of the winter and involve repainting the frame, making a new wiring harness, thoroughly cleaning the carbs and getting them finally jetted right for not having the airbox, replacing all bearing and bushings, and rebuilding the engine. Actually i need to decided which engine to rebuild. I have the one that is on the bike, or the original numbers matching engine that is sitting spare right now. I started by stripping most of the bike, which sits like this right now The wiring harness that was on it was custom made by a friend and previous owner. Honestly it is a miracle that it worked, but it did. Its a real piece of art, and i think i'm going to frame it, in honor the time that they spent creating it. Here it is with the casing cut off. I have ordered a harness off ebay that claims to be correct for my bike that i will use as a template to create a new harness with fresh wire and connectors. anyway, i expect i'll be updating this for a while, with the occasional questions. Feel free to pass on any tips or must do projects while i have everything opened up.

I would love to know the same thing. The face on my speedo is loose, so it bounces around and rotates, meaning my speed is constantly bouncing 5mph up and down. From my own investigation, they appear sealed, i don't know that you can open them. I know my buddy's 1975 Kawi's tach can not be opened without ruining it. i know that is another brand, but the sealing job looks similar between his, and the gauges on my xs500. I just bought some smaller gauges off mikesxs that i think i'll like better, but i'd love to have the original ones back to decent shape if i ever put it back to stock.

Thanks, i'll be sure to replace those parts. I had plans to replace all seals and gaskets on the engine and carbs this winter. I'm also looking at getting an ultrasonic cleaner, so i can make sure they are all clean. Personally i'd like to not go back to the airbox, and stick with the cones. So i guess i'll be learning the proper jetting for that setup, or finding a way to make the cones more restrictive.

It is funny how some bikes favor one method over the other. Mine does hate the electric start, and used to love the kick start, but i'm lazy. My friends kawi KZ400 will never start on the kick unless it is fully warmed up, but pops into life instantly with the electric. after the rebuild i'm expecting it to start on a kick or two every time. I do need to find a choke lever though. Mine is gone, so i have to hold the piece up with my hand to use the choke. I think i saw one on ebay today. By any chance do you have the compression numbers for your bike? I've been trying to find someone to compare mine to since i can't find what they should be normally.

just a thought, check your reservoir. My bike has clubmans, and it puts the reservoir at an angle, not upright as it should be. I've adjusted mine as best i can, and thanks to where the openings in the bottom are I’ve had no issues, but its possible that with the reservoir at an angle, if you are not filled right to max, you can introduce air to the line. This is probably what happened when you took the brake handle and reservoir off the old bars and dangled them before putting the new ones on. Mine is easy to watch and check since the reservoir is clear, but i don't know what the one on your bike looks like. Hope this makes sense.

Dragging this thread up briefly. I did a compression check the other night after changing oil, and looking at the cams. I'm getting 130psi on a dry test for both cylinders. I need to figure out a way to get a few drops of oil in there without spilling oil everywhere before I can do a wet test. I think my problem may not have been as bad as I was as I originally thought. Yesterday while taking the bike out for a mile to warm the oil for changing, it died at a stop as it does when not fully warm if I’m not paying attention. I hit the starter and nothing, just a clicking from around the battery. (I assumed relay, but based on some other reading I guess solenoid?) I gave it a kick and it fired almost before I had the full kick stroke in. I assumed low battery was just not powering the starter, But a check of the battery showed ~12.7V, and after a charge to be sure, the starter was doing the same thing. So I’m assuming either the starter is toast, or my grounds are fouled up. I'll check both with my tear down this winter. So I’m wondering if my hard start problem was as bad as I thought. I've been lazy and ignoring the kick start, but I’m thinking that I shouldn't have been. The electric start has been slow as long as I’ve had the bike, and I just assumed that was normal. More things for me to check. I'm starting the tear down this upcoming week. lets hope I don’t' find any major problems.

I've seen both sides in my research as well. Personally i stick to MC oil, simply to eliminate the clutch slip issues. I believe a previous owner was using car oil, and not consistant car oil. Meaning, mixing brands, synth and dinosour, not changing as often as it should be, etc. Granted, i don't know much of the bikes history. I'll do my best to clean up everything when i tear it down. I'm starting that process today.

I can tell you that a previous owner probably had some oil in it that wasn't quite right. I think they tried to use car oil for a while (i know you aren't supposed to, first thing i did was change it). I forget what brand is in there now, but it is decent bike specific oil. Ran it for maybe 300 miles (2 rides) and changed it again. The valve clearance was adjusted very recently, and he said a few were off, but he didn't mention wear. Looks like i'll be learning how to set the valve clearance myself when i put the new cams in. I'm actually looking forward to it, i haven't torn down an engine in a while, i quite enjoy it. Thanks guys, i always appreciate the help, even if i'm bad at checking back for the answers.

Thanks. I realized some wear was to be expected, but i was concerned at the ammount. I realize the bike is 33 years old, and it has 23,000 miles, but that doesnt' seem like normal wear for the miles. Granted i'm making this theory based on my experience with cars. I believe this engine has been rebuilt once before, but i do not think that covered the cams and rockers. I just want to make sure this doesn't point to a larger problem. Guess its just one more think to investigate and fix this winter. I guess when i get the engine open i'll know if i'm rebuilding this one, or building up the spare i have.

Thank you guys, i will attempt to use those methods if i don't just bring them to a shop.

In my attempts to locate sources of noises and problems, i popped the valve cover off to check that the cam area was getting oil. Oil is getting there, though i don't know if enough. I'm concerned about my cams, as they show wear, and more than i think should be reasonable. Thoughts? Does this point to a larger problem? I'm retiring the bike for the season (not that i've ridden it much), and starting to do my tear down, which will include the engine, so i'm gathering what i need to check/replace. I do have a set of new cams, which will help if these look really bad. All the pictures i took (and all the ones relating to the bike) are here, but some select ones are below.

I can't get them apart, tried what you suggested, the bolt it just in there too tight. I'm going to have to resign to bringing them to a shop and letting them do it. At least if they strip the bolts they should have the means to extract them anyway. For now i'll fill them and put them back on so i can get it off the jack. Thank you though, i appreciate the help.

I need to replace the seals, not just the oil. So unless i'm missing something, i do have to get the bottom bolts out to allow me to separate the two tubes.

I'm trying to get my forks apart to replace the seals, and i can't get the hex bolts at the bottom out. I have the top caps off, springs out, oil drained. But the hex bolts won't budge. anyone have any ideas to get them loose? (i'm assuming they are normal right hand threads, manual doesn't say they aren't.) I really don't want to strip them. thanks

to be honest this is a new and developing idea, and i haven't quite found the unit to work with. I was really looking to see if any one had considered or done this. My main concern is power, though i need to do some more research, since there are huge differences between the options i could pursue, including HID, Xeon, etc. I do have the option to turn my headlight off and on at will, so the bike won't be trying to power the light while starting, so that will help. If anyone has any thoughts i'm all ears. The bike is being stripped down this winter for a number of reasons, one of them being to make a new wiring harness, so i'll be able to clean up the wires in the light bucket, and add in this new idea.

So i was wondering, anyone here found a way to put a projector style headlamp on an older bike? I love the look of the original buckets and lenses, but the increased light from the projector style is appealing. Has anyone combined the two? I'd love to find a way to mount the projector in an original bucket with a clear (no "lines") lens on the front. Am i crazy to consider this? If someone could confirm that the projector light would work with the older electrical system i think i can custom make a bucket from fiberglass, that would fit the new light, and keep the original look as much as possible. Thoughts?

hmm, not really what i wanted to hear, but ok. I was planning on stripping the bike completely down this winter, so i guess what's adding the engine to the mix. Luckily i have a second engine, don't know if it has all the bits, but at least 95% of them. I'll re-run the compression test, both wet and dry, see what i get for numbers. I'm also going to try a few things in regard to filters to see if my theory on idle/starting has any merit. My list of things that need fixing keeps growing, but i guess what can i do, these things come with a bike that is 33 years old. Thankfully i enjoy working on the bike as much as i do riding it.

do you know what compression should be? I can't find a number to compare to. I did a test and got about 125psi from each, actually a little higher, maybe 128. That seemed to be about right based on my calculations for engine spec/size. That was dry, i'll have to redo it and do a wet as well.

I found a guy on ebay selling original filters. I got two at the time, and he said he has a bunch, just contact him again to get more, let me see if i can find him again.

That's an interesting idea. I will add it to my list of things to try. Just did 135 miles, and she ran like a champ once going. pulled well, it was fun.

intake boots are good, but i will check again as described. I'll try the plugs if for nothing else as something to try. I'm really wondering if my air filter theory is correct, since it might explain the inablility to idle below 2k. If there isn't enough restriction to induce some "pull" on the fuel system to get it going, might that not cause it to behave as it is? I have an old airbox off a Kawasaki KZ400 that i can try and rig up, but the air box to this bike is long gone. If this theory seems to have some merit i'll try and find some more restrictive filters for the bike. if i'm talking nonsense though please correct me.

Alright, after a month of the bike being in the shop, and general craziness in my life, I have the bike back. It is running decently, however it still is very reluctant to start. I have found the most reliable way to start it is to cover the carb openings with your hand while hitting the electric starter so that they flood slightly. Once you do this it will reluctantly start, then need to be warmed up with the choke like normal. The shop cleaned, set, synced, balanced the carbs, so those should be ok. Ignition timing was set as well as it can be, and valves were set and adjusted. My only thought as to what could be causing this is the stock airbox has long since been replaced by cone filters, and as of lately, due to how I have to start it, no filters. I’m thinking this means there isn’t as much resistance pulling in air, so that engine can’t pull the fuel it needs to start. Is this plausible, or am I showing my ignorance to carbs. It runs beautifully once started and warmed up, but even when warm, if you turn it off and try and start it, it isn’t happy about it. Thoughts?

i am trying to rebuild a set for forks for my bike, and the bolts at the bottom (hex head recessed in where the ''axle'' goes through)are stripped. I need to know what size bolts they are so i can get new ones. the ones on mikesXS are too big. anyone know size, or a site that sells them? also, any recomendations for removing them before i ilet a local machinist drill them out? it's a 1976 XS500 thanks

does that mean you're having the same issues? sorry, it's early and i'm not fully awake. honestly any ideas of things to check would be greatly appreciated.

Ok, i took some time off working on this bike for sanity's sake. Its not running right still, mostly the idle. It won't idle, at least not below 2k. Even when warm it won't hold an idle below 1800 or so, i can get it to 1500, but it sits there for a few seconds, then dies. This is out riding, not sitting in my driveway. I'll pull up to a red light, try to adjust the idle screw to get it lower than the 2.5k it likes to sit at, and that is the result. I pulled the carb boots to see if they were cracked and leaking, but i don't think they are. The outside is drying up and has some cracks, but the inside is perfect. So what else could be causing this? I'm really trying to fix this myself, but i'm getting increasingly close to just leaving it with a shop for a week. On a side note, where do i get replacement carb boots? MikesXS doesn't have the same style, all the ones there have the barbs coming off them for syncing, which i don't need, and won't allow me to put the metal braces back on. Carb Boot outsides Carb boot insides (hard to photograph, even with micro setting) metal brace, these are awesome.