SirBieber

Ive noticed the front shocks are really stiff, i push it down with all my weight and cant get them to do much. going over a solid bump makes them gives in a bit but always with a squeek. what should i do?

awesome thanks the for tips guys, lots can be done seems like. Its funny I made a custom camera mount on my handlebars to hold my coolpix. Without testing it I filmed for about 45 min and got home really excited about the footage. due to the vibration you cant see ANYTHING clearly except for when I have stopped at stop signs, ha!

I'm wondering if there are ANY tips or parts that could help in this department. As a rider I dont mind it too much but the bike, meh. I've had glasses fuses get pulled apart at their metal ends, a license plate crack where it gets bolted down, mirrors vibrate so much you can't make out what you see from them above 65mph, and bolts get unscrewed and fall off. I've replaced all these things bit its kind of like... (can't think of a good analogy right now)... I want to cure the root of the problem instead of just suppressing the symptoms. I would basically feel more comfortable going on a long distance ride on this thing without having to hear a new sound of something beginning to vibrate/come loose etc every time i do.

I have an '80 650. My main fuse is 20A, and the rest is 10A. I just redid half the wiring on my bike inlcuding the fuses. The glass tube fuses are incredibly fussy, even with the proper fuse the circuit can have problems with the wiring going to that fuse box. I think its a terrible design, the wires are bent 180 degrees and with all the vibration, I didnt like it. I made a new fuse box with ATC fuses and it fixed ALL my voltage problems. Also maybe try sanding down all your grounds, that helps a lot too with older bikes. check your wiring diagrams for what size fuses you want. You definitely dont want a bigger fuse than ur supposed to or you can damage components. The blinkers possibly aren't getting enough power if they dont blink. Maybe connect the bike to a battery charger and then try the blinkers. Otherwise there is a blinker relay I believe you could look at that.

I have an '80 650. My main fuse is 20A, and the rest is 10A. I just redid half the wiring on my bike inlcuding the fuses. The glass tube fuses are incredibly fussy, even with the proper fuse the circuit can have problems with the wiring going to that fuse box. I think its a terrible design, the wires are bent 180 degrees and with all the vibration, I didnt like it. I made a new fuse box with ATC fuses and it fixed ALL my voltage problems. Also maybe try sanding down all your grounds, that helps a lot too with older bikes. check your wiring diagrams for what size fuses you want. You definitely dont want a bigger fuse than ur supposed to or you can damage components. The blinkers possibly aren't getting enough power if they dont blink. Maybe connect the bike to a battery charger and then try the blinkers. Otherwise there is a blinker relay I believe you could look at that.

Got the wire diagram for the modified reg and rectifier. Pulled out all wiring and put it back together as in the diagram. Replaced the melted connector, and the entire fuse system. Works better than ever now but as usual, we'll see how long this lasts.

that thing is a beast. an incredibly sexy beast. I dont get how people 'clean out' all that room. I dont even have room to tuck wires away. where is the battery for instance?

All I've done electrically prior to the melting was change the tailight, hard wire the headlight (which is back to original wiring now), remove the Reserve lighting device, and solder some fuse connections (and since i've completely replaced the fuse system) I believe its a '79 chrysler regulator with a Radio shack (common US eletronic/gimic store) brand rectifier. The whole deal is its supposed to do the job at $25 while having a more modern rectifier. I bought the bike with it already installed, so I know nothing about the wiring. I'm sure I'll be able to find a wiring guide online if not on this forum somewhere. I think im gonna try and replace the melted connector (now that I have a new fuse system) and see if that helps. How would I go about testing the regulator/rectifier before I just melt another connector?

I just replaced all the fuses with the ATC type fuses instead of the glass tube fuses. The connector that burnt out is coming from the alternator, the three white wires in that connector burnt out. The white wires trace back to the voltage regulator/rectifier. Is that a wiring problem or a bad regulator?

The buzzing is coming from the safety relay. Its the bottom of the 2 rectangular relays in one of my pictures above. I isolated the 2 prongs that were burning and everything works fine I'm just getting buzzing from this safety relay. I'll read up if I can find a diagnosis from that. If I can't fix this easily I would entertain the idea of doing a total rewire but I dont know if I trust my know how of electrics enough.

True but Bin Laden was a huge influence on recruiting for Al Qaeda. That source now has a hole in his forehead and is lying on the oceans floor.

Its located in its own little chamber sitting perpendicular to the frame of the bike behind the battery on the right side. Its right above the safety relay, I'm looking at the wiring diagram right now and still can't figure it out. I'll take some clear pictures of it soon.

So you think its a bad ground somewhere? I sanded the ground connection from the modified chrysler voltage regulator, I know thats good. Theres 6 'prongs' withing the problem connector. Only 2 of them are overheating. I pulled them out, and connected back the other 4. When the 2 overheating prongs are isolated and not touching anything they are not overheating. Everything then works fine except for the buzzing above the relays at another cylindrical component. I'll try and figure out what that is next, and eventually follow those 2 problem prongs and see where they lead. Why are some wires going to the connector in a cloth wrapping thats a different color than the wire? Just makes tracing them that much harder.

I have the option to edit but not delete the whole post.

Disregard no clue what happened. The next day it was fine.