junker

I have an old battery that is completely dead, if anything it drains electric like a black hole.... anyways- I called NAPA Auto Parts yesterday, and they said that if i bought a new battery off the internet and it shipped "dry" with no electrolyte and no charge that they could get it ready to go for a small fee ($5.00). But then I was Thinking, if they can do that, why wouldn't they be able to recharge and refill my old battery? I have not talked to them yet because it was after hours yesterday when i thought of it, and today must be some kind of NAPA holiday or something... IS it worth it to buy the new one? The old one isn't physically damaged on the outside or anything, no cracks or leaks.

This is kind of off your topic, but does anyone know if this is possible? I have an old battery that is completely dead, if anything it drains electric like a black hole.... anyways- I called NAPA Auto Parts yesterday, and they said that if i bought a new battery off the internet and it shipped "dry" with no electrolyte and no charge that they could get it ready to go for a small fee ($5.00). But then I was Thinking, if they can do that, why wouldn't they be able to recharge and refill my old battery? IS it worth it to buy the new one? The old one isn't physically damaged on the outside or anything, no cracks or leaks.

If It's a really old bike and has been put under a lot of stress, like racing for example, seals and gaskets may be crapping out on you. Check your carburetors also; if they overfill they may leak the gas on a route straight into your cylinder and into your oil pan. Theres a few other possibilities, but i can't really think of anymore right now... I'll tell you when i find more. Good Luck

I have saved a lot buying ignition stuff for cheap for my 1988 FZ600. Parts from Yamahaha are extreme! Best Ebay advise = Check the seller's rating! Read Feedback, if they scam a lot of people, Those people will have left them really bad feedback, this is the one thing THEY cannot edit or remove, so what people say is usually pretty accurate. Good Luck!

Ok Everybody! Thanks for all the advise and guidance! I started her up today and she runs GREAT! Better than i had her going back when i thought she was good!! I'm going to make a video of it soon, I'm trying to log progress for anyone else who might have a similar project along the way. For the first time, i actually got it to move more than 10ft on her own! I now realized that i had to adjust the clutch lever, big time, the bike kept wanting to go even with the lever all the way in... that was scary! I adjusted it and it ran great all over my yard!!! I think i woke the neighbors up! My neighbor has a YZF i think, definitely a Yamaha... I always thought he hated me because of my dog, but he was giving me thumbs up and watching me and crap...LOL Next Project; getting the battery Revived Next, Next Project; getting front turn signals Distant Future Project; Getting Her Inspected and On the road!!! Thanks a lot guys, you are a major help to me... I try to give back what knowledge i have on the forums but i'm afraid it pales in comparison to the help you all have given me... Thank You

P.S. - ONe of the button shaped top covers that house the diaphragm spring was apparently crushed in (perhaps a previous owner acted upon the need to destroy something that i was feeling) Until now i figured it wasn't a hinder to the function of the carb, but when i manually lifted the diaphragms and that one slammed shut faster than all the others i realized it needed to be repaired, which i did

Ok ppl, thank you all for all your help, tonight i have removed the carburetors again, cleared all of the blocked main jets (3 out of 4), inspected all of the diaphragms (were all a-ok) and adjusted the troublesome float height, I also noticed that the throttle butterflies were completely out of whack- one open while one's closed - I adjusted them to the best of my visual ability and perhaps they will function temporarily until i get them properly synchronized. I have not attempted to start it, despite my overwhelming urge of curiosity, it is too dark and these friggen gigantic mosquitoes want me for dinner. Tomorrow will be the day of truth, no work scheduled, so first thing in the morning I'll gas her up and see if she runs Crossing my fingers

thank you man, i haven't ever checked my messages... lol i have now though

Does anyone know if the; what look like jets in the mouth of the carbs are removable? Either way, does anyone know their function? The schematic, like i said only shows one side of them.

go on to www.bikebandit.com and look at the oem schematics for different yamahaha's, our fz's have the two hooks in the front and a bolt hole in the back, if an fzr tank has that too, then why wouldn't it fit? the bolt hole is actually pretty bendable too with a mallet, so even if it is slightly larger than an fz's tank i'm sure you could wiggle your way to make it fit. However, why not just get another tank off ebay? I know how those oem parts places would like to charge you the price of the bike new for a single goddamned screw, but ebay has a lot of fair priced parts from used bikes and what not, and you can actually talk to the people selling it, so find even an fzr tank and ask them to measure it for ya! Good Luck! FZ's UNITE!

For Some reason I don't feel like stabbing anything anymore... Thank You. No I do Not have a work Shop Manual Yet, I Am pretty busy with work (Landscaping Industry is going down the tubes with housing market in America). On My Days that I am Free after work i have been trying to tinker around with things that I know how to do and that don't require any specs from Yamaha, The Auto Parts Store dosen't sell any for an FZ and I am going to order one from themotorbookstore.com tonight. Do You know where get carb gaskets and O-rings for older bikes? Yama-haha! only wants to sell me the ENTIRE carb for $300!!! I just want the little rubber gasket My local dealer is a retard with hill-billy ties and he orders from the same site i could go to and charges double!

How Do I check the float height? And if i CAN blow air through the fuel line with the floats all the way up, how do i adjust them to shut off? What if the float height is correct, does that mean that there is a leak somewhere in a gasket or something? Can replacing screws have this effect, i had to replace the old screws with new brass ones i bought from The Home Depot, they were the exact same size and shape, just new and not as easily stripped is all. What about a plugged jet, the bike is now hard to start and will only rev to 4.5K and if i twist throttle beyond that it acts very strange, lurching RPM levels and will sometimes even stall out. Could this be related? Should i completely tear down the carburetors again and completely STERILIZE each and every part? I FEEL LIKE STABBING SOMETHING!!! I HATE CARBURETORS!

thank you very much for clarifying that for me

ya, what he said; i know that on my bike (FZ600, the great grandpop to the r6) actually on the clutch lever there is a relatively big metal wheel, and a hollow bolt that surrounds the clutch line that goes through the wheel thing, loosen the wheel to allow adjustment & turn the bolt clcockwise for less line play and counter clockwise for more line play. Good Luck

it might be a long shot but it sounds like if you had it running then it stopped and your getting no spark, like grizzly said, check the wires, one might have been dangling over the head and gotten melted or something and is now shoring out. or maybe your plugs got oiled or something and just need some time to sit and dry off, try again tomorrow. Also, when you checked your plugs, were you expecting the big blast of gas and air to come shooting out of the hole?!?!!? When i tried to test mine i wasn't expecting it and it got me right in the face, gas got in my eyes and stung, it was not a pretty day.... And my eyes were wide open too, because i was looking really intently for a spark, my eyes wouldnt stop burning for 20 minutes.

MY Fz600 Has The Frame Stamped with the MFR date being in 1987, yet the title says 1988. I was curious so i looked at my truck, and the sticker on the inside part of the door says 1989, but the title said it was a 1990! I figure i either got scammed into buying two stolen vehicles from two different people (what are the odds)... Orrrrrr... the manufacture date is a year earlier because they didn't hit the sales floor until the following year. SO my BIG question is; when i go to get parts do i order them per the year on the frame or on the title? thx-The Junker

also, the yama-haha! schematic dosen't really help crap; it only shows one side of the carbs and dosent even really give correct names for each labeled part.... so yes, i have already tried to study the carbs via that route and got slapped with a dead end

yeah, just happened with my FZ; before the carbs started leaking... i just let it idle for like five minutes and just rolled one finger over the throttle a little bit more and then more and now it revs fine. Probably a plugged jet needed time to be cleared.

USA IS No.1!!!!

EBC brakes are supposed to be really good and they don't outsource, they keep all the work in the U.K. So shipping will also probably be very cheap for pads and stuff... if you didn't already get performance brakes

I have been rebuilding an 1988 FZ600 ( with Mikuni Round Slide type carburettors) from the oil pan up (not literally) and have gotten to the carbs along with other persisting problems. I have yet to properly synchronize them due to the inability to buy one of the manometer things, and i haven't gotten around to loading the bulky bike in my truck and hauling it to the shop to have them do it yet. But in my limited understanding, the carbs should have a good cleaning after sitting for god knows how many years, (probably it's entire lifespan). I pulled the suckers off (gently and meticulously) and prepared a clean workspace (family members want to kill me for dripping gas all over their spare room floor) and began dissembling... I got the float bowels off, and sprayed them with carb cleaner, removed jets, sprayed them, replaced them, disassembled the diaphragm and cleaned all related parts.... basically i cleaned the whole Shebangey-Bang and put it all back together. I got it to run, and now, a day later i noticed the half tank of gas i put in, is now a small sloshing puddle in the morning. I swiped my fingers over the bottom half of the carbs & got a slippery gas residue. After running it today, the gas came dripping out of the (what i believe to be) overflow tubes and an air jet on the outer lip of the intake mouth... I have pictures upon request of the carbs and what i think are these air jets that the gas came out of, email me @ [email protected] and ask for the pics, i cant figure out how to put them in threads on this forum... Is it possible i accidentally adjusted something in the float bowl? Is anyone Familiar with Old FZ600 Carbs?

OK, that is definitely a better way... I am actually going to do that from now on, the next time i change my own brakes... this topic helped me probably more than the starter...

did you try playing around with buttons? maybe like the odometer trip button has a double feature if you hold it in or something...

how did the test go??? It was yesterday right?

Disc brakes and bikes are for the most part the same concept: and if the guy you bought it from mentioned that he did the brake job himself, then I can almost guarantee you that he did not bleed the brakes. The calipers adjust to low brake pads and the pistons constantly squeeze tighter to make up for the lack of brake pad material. When you put new pads in, you have to bleed the system to get the pistons back to their original position and adjust for the new brake pad width. If he failed to do this, then the pads are constantly pressing against your rotor and will A) not move or B)if it rolls; wear out those fancy new pads real damn quick! Hope this helped, check your manual on how to bleed the brakes