BryanCooper

Hi Airhead, Its behaving like clutch slip but when i apply brakes and full revs it jerks and stalls so not clutch slip, nice idea though. Right... did carb clean, checked air filter and box all good so far.... checked fuel hoses and carb rubbers all good condition. now electrics... front spark plug coated in black soot, cleaned it put it back in had engine run for a bit with alot of throttle balancing 20mins checked plugs again, rear one still clean, front one sooted again.. poss piston rings worn. wont know until i strip engine. Once i checked wiring clips i sprayed some WD40 type stuff.... and there was smoke, the two cream coloured wires that come from the regulator / rectifier were that hot that they burnt off the oil, the plastic terminal connector was too hot to hold for too long. So i think it could be the regulator/rectifier thats gone, which could possibly explain why my indicators flash so fast when engine on high revs ( all indicator bulbs are working). Am i in the right direction of fault ?

Hi Guys thanks for the advice, today i'm going to give her a right going over. As yesterday she was worse, she behaved like she was only firing on one cylinder as for response and power but was firing on both. Backfired a lot, and indicators were almost on constant as they flashed very fast. If i lowered the revs slightly and put the headlight on the engine pitch rose and fell with each on off of the indicator. i have been trying to find what the symptoms of a blown piston are as i have had a poor seal on the front exhaust gasket. I will clean carb and check jets, check air filter, choke valve in the carb as 2 years ago it was seized and the choke cable was snapped so had no choke function. The spark plugs were in perfect condition a few days ago but will check them again. will also check fuel feed diaphragm ( the thing that stops fuel flooding if bike falls over) will check fuel / vacuum hoses for cracks. And will post on here any findings and result. might unclip fuel hose and have a smoke if it does not run after this.

Hi All, I would say put the bike up either on paddock stands or axle stands put the bike in neutral with the ignition off and move the chain by rotating the back wheel this way you can check tyre for signs of damage will be able to see the chain snag if sprockets are worn. Or if you get the chain off you can check for wear and any seized links. Once you have the chain off straighten it out with the link rivets pointing up and down, hold one end and if the chain forms an curve its worn the greater the curve the more worn the chain, I did this once on my first bike and the chain nearly made a circle and the drive sprocket teeth were severely hooked. Bryan

Hi Morpheuz, That maybe the problem as i have the choke lever over to the left, (its a UK bike) but if i move the lever over to the right it dies straight away. Another thing i noticed today was, if i tried to pull away from standing the bike stalled, but once it had movement it was like a continuous bump start. if it started to stall the forward movement kept it going. Also i noticed when i put my indicator on instead of the normal 1 second on/off it did about 10 pulses a second. I have put a lot of loving care into the bike, resprayed her, custom rear light and plate mount, chrome trim on the mud guards front and rear, low handle bars..... and all i want to do now is scrap her as i'm pulling my hair out trying to get her to run properly. Cheers Bryan

Hi Chris, Dont know if you got the noise sorted yet but i would say that as you tightened your chain you tightened your brake cable and the noise is brake rub which will go once the pads have worn a little bit. Bryan

Hi all, I hope someone could help me, i put some fuel in from a superstore garage (Tesco) it was supposed to be suitable for all petrol engines (it was super unleaded BP stuff). The results were fantastic..... From standing very poor power a push off with a foot helped, once on the move up to quarter turn on the throttle gave me some power anything over that the engine would loose power and strain. So i drained the tank, and flushed the carb through with normal unleaded and refilled the tank with normal unleaded did an oil change (oil was thick black no metal filings). This resulted with power to pull away but still power loss when over half throttle turn. It sounds like as if changing gear half way through acceleration. things i have done... Replaced Spark plugs, checked chain tension, checked Brake free movement front and rear,cleaned air filter, checked oil filter, adjusted idle screw (made no difference) checked throttle cable movement. Is their something i have missed or a solution to this. thanks Bryan

hiya, yes it is a thermo sensor to prevent carb icing.

4 ...the wire from the clutch lever feeds directly to the safety relay located next to the flasher relay behind right side cover. the side stand switch should be part of the side stand assembly, a plunger pushes against the top of the side stand and two blue wires track up behind the horn and are connected by a block connector, if the circuit is open it wont start so check to see if the block with 2 connectors has been shorted. (bridged with a bit of wire) falling that check the wiring on the safety relay, that's where the wires from the , clutch lever, neutral switch, side stand switch go, as well as wires going out to the solenoid,

4 ...the wire from the clutch lever feeds directly to the safety relay located next to the flasher relay behind right side cover.

info from service manual yamaha xv125 1997. tappet cover - torque setting Nm 18 / M.kg 0.7 Cylinder head flange bolt, torque setting Nm 22 / M.kg 2.2 cylinder head exhaust , stud bolt, Nm 7 / M.kg 0.7 cylinder head tappet cover Nm 10 / M.kg 0.1 if you need any more info PM me, hope this helps Bryan.

yes i belive they are brown wires fixed on with push connectors. Thats the heater in the carb. Bry.

you do NOT have to move the engine, the sump bolt can got to with the side stand down, and a extension bar on your ratchet set, if i remember right its a 21mm nut. as for carb icing i have not encountered that yet, but there is a carb heater, the sensor is in the chrome dome left hand side under the fuel tank. i can get 70mph out of my xv125 as for restriction i think its a combination of air filter, carb jets and the ECU. I have made no improvements to mine YET....lol Bry.

fuel was either leaking from carb breather tube or breather in fuel cap. The wind will cause you to wobble as you try to keep your balance, same as if you are being over taken by a large van or bus you get a spot of turbulance. in the rain just WATCH OUT FOR MAN HOLE COVERS, TAR BANDINGS (the stupid strips of tar that fill cracks in the tarmac.) and ROAD MARKINGS they get slippery when wet. And applying your rear brake when cornering may cause your bike to skid and slid from under you especially in the rain. Just be gentle on the accelerator. Bry.

hi all... i had an accident about 2 years ago when a car pulled out in front of me when he came out of a T junction. It wrote my Yammy RXS100 off and made me nervous about riding... i got a hired motorcycle and when fit enough to rid got straight back on the road. I am still aprehensive when i see cars at give way lines as i approach but i guess caution is better than care free. As for riding i tend to look where i want to go and the bike follows. So avoid looking in the gutter or the bike will go there. As for pulling out of junctions i check my direction is clear, any lanes i have to cross make sure they are clear then a live saver to make sure no one is going to cut me up. when clear i go. I was told when i done my CBT get away from the hazard as quickly and safely as possible. hope it helps or if not kills a bit of time if you read it.... lol P.S. the more you ride the more confident you will get. Bry.