YPVS TONE

Does the carb slide move up down when you turn the idle screw ? If I remember the YB100 was a similar setup to the FS1E both using the disc valve engine with the carb on the RH side of the engine. I remember the FS1E had a pin that went through the carb slide and located in the idle screw with a tiny spilt pin, so as you turned the idle screw it raised or lowered the carb slide thus altering the tickover speed. If the slide doesn't move when you turn the idle screw maybe the pin or locating split pin is missing. You can see the pin,spilt pin and idle screw as items 15,16 and 23 as shown here https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/genuineparts/9010/5/yamaha%20yb100%2082-87/carburetor?uID=0 Hope this helps. Tony

First thing I would do is get rid of the wadding on the baffle which is usually held on with wire wrapped around it and is not required. The Genuine air filter I got for my LC a while back came pre oiled so it may be an idea to squeeze out any excess oil from the one you have if you've applied oil to it. If you've fitted a new piston did you fit it with the arrow on the top of the piston facing forward towards the exhaust port ?

IF I remember rightly the RXS100 uses a foam type air filter. Did you apply oil to it when you put it in as you may have over oiled it as they should only be damp but not dripping with oil. The other thing to check is the exhaust baffle to make sure it's not coked up. I usually clean mine on the LC with a blow lamp to burn off the oil and carbon then use a wire brush to clean off the coke, making sure all the small holes at the end are clear. Can't remember on the RXS if the baffles came with any wadding on them when new but if yours has still got it on you can do away with it. Also you say it had a cone type filter on it when you got it and you've put the standard airbox on. Usually when you put a K&N type filter on you have to up the main jet to compensate for the extra airflow so now it maybe overjetted with the standard airbox on. Got a Yamaha data book that say's for the early 1983 RXS100 (31J) model it lists a #120 main jet as standard so maybe worth checking. Tony

What grade of plug was fitted when it went ?

According to this it's a DT125J. http://dropbears.com/y/yamaha/modelcodes.htm

I would say it's number 18 shown on here, probably to do with anti emmisions connected to the standard exhaust system https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/genuineparts/13165/7/yamaha%20cs50%20jog%20r%20-%2013165/exhaust?uID=0 Has yours got a non standard exhaust on ? Tony

Looking at the owners manual for the XVS950 on the Yamaha Motor UK site it says that for just an oil change 3.7L and oil and filter change 4.0L as you say. If this it what it says in your manual as well I would take it along to the dealer with your receipt and query why you have been charged for an extra 0.5 litres of oil. I would also check the amount in the engine following what it says in your manual to make sure they haven't overfilled it.

The airscrew doesn't raise the slide, that is done by the throttle stop screw. The pilot airscrew alters the mixture for the idle circuit. The screw is usually a tapered screw which restricts or derestricts the air for the idle circuit which usually means when you screw it in it makes the mixture Richer or when you screw it out makes it leaner. Most manuals will give you a base setting to start with i.e 1 and 1/4 or 1 and 1/2 turns out from being screwed in until lightly seated. As with most carbs there is a certain amount of overlap between the different circuits.

This was taken from the Yamaha UK site so can't believe there would be any copyright issues http://ymenvom.crestec.nl/new/manuals/U5JXE0.PDF Tony

He probably means the Relay arm as shown under the "Rear Arm" section item #13 in DirtDT's parts link

I seem to remember the stuff wild foamy is on about was called "OKO" that was put in the tyre before you got a puncture and was supposed to seal the hole when you got a puncture. Seem to remember it was only any good on tubeless tyres not ones with inner tubes fitted. Also remember when you came to change tyres that had been filled with it it was horrible stuff to clean off the rims before you installed a new tyre. Tony

Why would you want to change to smoked lenses? Surely this is just asking for some car driver to shunt you up the a##e as your going to turn right and then to say sorry I didn't see your indicators. And don't be surprised if this happens and your insurance company refuse to pay out as you've changed the lenses from standard.

Metric bolt sizes Won't be all 1.25 pitch across that range of thread sizes. 4mm can be 0.50 or 0.70 pitch, 5mm is usually 0.80 pitch, 6mm is usually 1.0 pitch, 8mm can be 1.00 or 1.25 pitch, 10mm can be 1.25 or 1.5 pitch and 12mm can be 1.5 or 1.75 pitch. This is only a general guide as some bolts have different pitch sizes depending on application. Tony

Have you removed the circlip that sits above the seal?

I did mine a few years ago on my LC2 by taking the footrest hanger off and finding a socket with the same diameter as the outer bush in the hanger that the rubber part is supposed to be attached too and putting another socket slightly bigger behind too support it and putting it in a vice and slowly tightening the vice to push the bush out. You could also try taking out the rubber damper and maybe using a hacksaw carefully cut a slot in the outer bush so it splits the bush then carefully tap it out. Hope this makes sense. Tony

Yes the floatbowl for the RH side carb has that hole blocked whereas the LH side (Choke knob) side has that hole open.

Have you got an owners manual with the bike? If you have it should tell you in there how to adjust the idle speed. If not you can download one from the Yamaha website here http://www.yamaha-motor.eu/uk/services/owner-manuals/index.aspx Looks like there should be a screw on the LH side of the bike under the fuel tank for the the idle speed adjustment. Tony

Yes the floatbowl on the RH carb should be blocked off as it is in your photo. The choke works by only drawing fuel from the LH floatbowl then it is transfered to the RH carb via the rubber link pipe between the carbs. Tony

Is this one of the floatbowls of the 350LC ? If so don't worry one of the floatbowls is blocked off like this. The one that is blocked off as in your photo goes on the RH side carb and the one with the hole goes on the LH side carb (choke side). If you get them mixed up you will find you will have trouble starting the bike cold with the choke on as the fuel is drawn up from the LH float bowl then transfered to the RH carb via the rubber link pipe between the carbs. Tony

Got a UK data book that say's for the XT250 from engine number 3Y3-000101 and from 3Y3-0035101 airscrew turns out = 2 and 1/2. Tony

Certain the air cooled models had a two bolt fixing at the back whereas the LC's only have a single bolt fixing.

I had a similar issue on my LC2 where the carbs had been left with fuel in and the floatbowl drain screws had stuck in caused by the gum/varnish. I boiled a kettle and filled the bowls with hot water and it loosened the gum enough to get the screws out. Could you try pouring some hot water around the slides without cutting the cables first to see if that will loosen them. By the look of the intakes the carbs look like they will need a good cleaning inside anyway. Tony

If you mean the float height setting this is 21mm +or- 0.5mm for the 350LC. Tony

Usually any plain Black wire will be an earth wire on Yamaha's so you will have one that comes off the battery that will as mentioned be connected to the frame with various take off points in the harness.

The footrests are held on to the hangers by a single nut at the back. Not sure if you can get a spanner in there without taking off the hangers. If you do you just have to remove the exhaust bracket bolt and nut that holds it to the hanger and remove the two bolts at the front of the hanger which I think are Allen type bolts and it should come off. When you take out the exhaust bracket bolt it's best to find something to support the weight of the exhaust at the back if you don't want to take the exhaust right off to save putting strain on the exhaust flange studs. Tone