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Thank you for your detailed and helpful replies. I feel I'm asking questions too readily but I'm new to this and appreciate your taking the trouble to help. I think I may have answered my own question! I've just removed the silencer and found the the brake pedal hits a stop welded to the footrest bracket. There's a small flange at of the front of the stop which look as if a rubber buffer could be attached there. I've cut a piece of rubber tubing to fit it but it's not clear in the photo. Hopefully it will stay in place. Thanks again.

P.s.. That rubber plug gives you access to do a visual inspection of the brake shoe thickness. .

Are you 100% certain that the brake lever isn't bent at all?

On My DT the adjustment stop for the brake pedal is on the frame, you might have something similar, or the bolt may be missing, worth a look??

Hi Doc, same set up as my 400/4, Although on my brake pedal there is an adjustable stop to....well ...stop! whats happening to yours!! It is a case of moving the the drum brake lever on the splines and adjusting the rod to get the best position without fowling the silencer, but there is not a lot of spline positions available as the cut out in the shaft for the pinch bolt limits the available movement. It's just a case of trial and error to find the sweet spot. As regards to the amount of travel, on the one hand you don't want just a touch of your foot to lock the brakes up!, but there again, you don't want to be moving your foot so much that you wonder if the brakes will ever come on!! It's really down to personal preference to how much travel you give yourself for applying the rear brakes, I know when I've adjusted mine, I've thought WOOOHH that's not right!! and promptly readjusted it until i felt it was comfortable. Lengthening the brake rod by adjusting the screw/nut should push the brake pedal away from the silencer Incidently on my 400 I have a brake shoe wear indicator on the hub, new shoes, shifts the rear brake arm further back to accomodate the new shoes, and that in turn repositions the brake pedal. So whilst the brakes may be sufficient for the MOT, they don't actually look at the amount of shoe left, so it might be worthwhile inspecting the amount you have left, as the pedal touching the silencer may actually be the reason and new shoes may also solve your position problem. Hope thats of some help.

I've noticed that the top of my rear brake pedal is in contact with the underside of the silencer and there are clear signs of wear on both parts. I'm sure there should be clearance between the items and if left, could wear a hole in the silencer. The rear hub lever and brake rod have an angle about 90º between them, I'd always believed that this angle should always be less than 90, anything more than that is wrong. Or is that an old wives' tale? Would moving the hub lever, a spline or so on the shaft, make things any better? Any explanation of what's wrong or what I can do to fix it would be appreciated. Bike has a recent MOT so brakes should work OK. I had thought of wrapping a thin strip of rubber round the pedal, but it might burn on the silencer.

Sound advice indeed Snake.

My paranoid suggestion for this instance would be: Send them the pictures, order the key to a FRIENDS house instead of yours... Or a PO box or dropbox or something... Just not the same address the bike is kept at.

Just ordered one, paid 120£ with shipping from Spain. Should be here in next 4 days.

Thanks both for your comments. I was trying to be helpful but your remarks are completely valid; it isn't wise to pass that sort of information to strangers. No point in deleting the post, better let it stand so that anyone who is thinking of buying a key that way is warned of the possible dangers.

On the plus side , you've got a working key!! and just to reassure, I've looked at the guy on ebay, and he does have good feedback and he only sells keys. So there's every chance it will indeed be okay and you won't lose your bike! Having said that I'm a suspicious ol' scrote just like Snake, but it should always be prudent to check or consider these things in the "Am I giving away too much information" scheme of things!! We look out for each other, but i think it's likely you're safe on this one.

Ok, well, presumably the chain is not touching the chain guard? (if it has one) Then it's going to be a process of elimination, If you're taking the wheel off, then run the motor in gear so the front sprocket just spins, see if the clicking is related to just the sprocket. Then put the chain on, and see if clicks before you attempt to realign the wheel. It may well be chain alignment, I'm sure there are plenty of vids on you tube, here's one.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4m9tdTN2OKo It will only be something simple causing it, especially if it was okay before!! Good luck let us know how you get on.

Thanks Neo appreciate the advice…. Chain has been well maintained and have already checked…. The noise sounds like every link is striking/fouling something rather than a single link that would change as speed changes…. Sounds same as if you dragged a fingernail over a comb. I think I will take rear wheel off this weekend and make sure everything is correct…. I feel it’s an alignment issue of some sort….. On the plus side it is a long weekend

Hi there, Welcome Stevie, This sounds like it could easily be a dry link/joint on the chain, not uncommon even if new at the beginning, If its gone stiff and can no longer flex and move it will make a clicking noise, the faster you go, the closer the clicking. The front sprocket has the tighter radius compared to the larger rear sprocket so the chain only clicks on the smaller sprocket. Even a bit of crud could be causing the chain links to stick, and it only takes one link to click! Put the bike up on the centre stand and rotate the rear wheel by hand moving the chain over the sprocket, look carefully at the sprocket and chain interface, the dry link will not ride the sprocket correctly each time it comes around. Or take the chain off and bend each link backwards and forwards and somewhere you will find one which doesn't move so freely. Hopefully this will be the cause, its only my opinion based on what you describe, but thats where i would be looking first. Keep us all informed.

Hi All Put new sprockets and chain on my Tracer 4000 miles ago without issue and now after a winter break I have picked up a buzzing noise coming (I believe) from the front sprocket. Sounds like someone constantly tightening a zip tie. Adjusted the chain and checked alignment of rear wheel which all seem to be in order. Checked front sprocket and doesn’t look to be fouling in any way. Double checked with supplier that correct parts were sent and also measured to doubledouble check. Now I have run out of ideas so would appreciate any advice. Only thing that has changed since fitting sprockets is I took wheels off to have new tires fitted before putting away for winter.

What can I say, just because I'm paranoid, doesn't mean people aren't out to get me! lol. I can delete this thread if you want, but that doesn't solve the main possible issue...

Thanks for that! That's something I hadn't considered and has really cheered me up. Is there a way off taking my post? 'Taking my post down'?

Errr... I hate to say it but... Yes, you can cut a key from a picture, I can cut a key from a picture with nothing but a blank and a needle file, that's not the issue... The problem is, what you've just done, is given some random person on E-Bay your bike key, AND your address!!! For the price of a key, that could turn out pretty expensive... And even if you DO get a perfectly working key in the post, doesn't mean they're not gonna come round later..!

I've raised a new post, Classic Yamaha Key Cutting, which relates to and continues this topic.

This is a follow-on from a previous post, 'RXS100 Spare Key', as it's applicable to any classic Yamaha or other bike with a simple key and warrants a wider audience. A company on EBay, 'Spare-Keys-4-u', was advertising the blank HON42 which my key was. I asked if they would tell me the length of the blank, as I wasn't sure whether the one in their illustration was the correct length. They asked me to send a photo, but I sent two, one of each face. I was told they could cut the key from the photos. I was sceptical but they offer a money back guarantee so I ordered one. I don't know whether it would work in every case, but I've tried the one I received today and it fits and functions perfectly. The cost was exactly a third of the price I was quoted by Timpsons.

Thanks for the link. HON42 is shown there under Honda motorcycles and is identical to my key, being a long shape. My bikes's ignition switch looks original, and the key also fits the locking fuel cap. They may have been replaced or maybe the same manufacturer supplied both Honda and Yamaha with these items.

SILCA is the brand name of the key, and HON42 is the key code for HONDA. But of course if the cross section is the same as yamaha, then it doesn't matter whether the blank is for Honda or Yamaha. If the blank doesn't match Yamaha then of course there is a outside possibility that the ignition switch and key is from a Honda and has been retro fitted. Just a thought. A useful link to key blanks from the internet. https://ekeyblanks.com/content/IlcoDirectoryVehicle.pdf

ROFL! Having used to be a shoe repairer / key cutter, I can confirm that's normal for Timpsons... Go find your local cobbler, he can probably do it.

Having received only one key with the bike I thought it prudent to obtain another. Yambits will try to help if I can provide the key code which is written on the bottom of the ignition switch but I am reluctant to start taking the bike apart, at least just yet. As it's a very basic key, marked SILCA HON42, I asked Timpsons if they could cut me one. They had the short version of the blank, but not the longer, that I require. Strange to have different size keys with the same number. Timpson can obtain a 'long' blank within a few days. I asked what the cost would be and was told £30 for the first key and £15 for any additional ones. When I expressed disbelief at what I thought was the high price, I was given a lot of waffle about quality etc. The Saturday girl in my local 'We sell everything' shop can cut a perfect key. She clamps the key and a blank in the machine, presses a button and within a few minutes, a perfect key is produced. HON42 blanks are available on EBay but they look like the short ones. My next step is to try the local locksmith shop. I can't send the key away for fear of it getting lost although I could go a reasonable distance to get one cut.