All Activity

Just ordered one, paid 120£ with shipping from Spain. Should be here in next 4 days.

Thanks both for your comments. I was trying to be helpful but your remarks are completely valid; it isn't wise to pass that sort of information to strangers. No point in deleting the post, better let it stand so that anyone who is thinking of buying a key that way is warned of the possible dangers.

On the plus side , you've got a working key!! and just to reassure, I've looked at the guy on ebay, and he does have good feedback and he only sells keys. So there's every chance it will indeed be okay and you won't lose your bike! Having said that I'm a suspicious ol' scrote just like Snake, but it should always be prudent to check or consider these things in the "Am I giving away too much information" scheme of things!! We look out for each other, but i think it's likely you're safe on this one.

Ok, well, presumably the chain is not touching the chain guard? (if it has one) Then it's going to be a process of elimination, If you're taking the wheel off, then run the motor in gear so the front sprocket just spins, see if the clicking is related to just the sprocket. Then put the chain on, and see if clicks before you attempt to realign the wheel. It may well be chain alignment, I'm sure there are plenty of vids on you tube, here's one.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4m9tdTN2OKo It will only be something simple causing it, especially if it was okay before!! Good luck let us know how you get on.

Thanks Neo appreciate the advice…. Chain has been well maintained and have already checked…. The noise sounds like every link is striking/fouling something rather than a single link that would change as speed changes…. Sounds same as if you dragged a fingernail over a comb. I think I will take rear wheel off this weekend and make sure everything is correct…. I feel it’s an alignment issue of some sort….. On the plus side it is a long weekend

Hi there, Welcome Stevie, This sounds like it could easily be a dry link/joint on the chain, not uncommon even if new at the beginning, If its gone stiff and can no longer flex and move it will make a clicking noise, the faster you go, the closer the clicking. The front sprocket has the tighter radius compared to the larger rear sprocket so the chain only clicks on the smaller sprocket. Even a bit of crud could be causing the chain links to stick, and it only takes one link to click! Put the bike up on the centre stand and rotate the rear wheel by hand moving the chain over the sprocket, look carefully at the sprocket and chain interface, the dry link will not ride the sprocket correctly each time it comes around. Or take the chain off and bend each link backwards and forwards and somewhere you will find one which doesn't move so freely. Hopefully this will be the cause, its only my opinion based on what you describe, but thats where i would be looking first. Keep us all informed.

Hi All Put new sprockets and chain on my Tracer 4000 miles ago without issue and now after a winter break I have picked up a buzzing noise coming (I believe) from the front sprocket. Sounds like someone constantly tightening a zip tie. Adjusted the chain and checked alignment of rear wheel which all seem to be in order. Checked front sprocket and doesn’t look to be fouling in any way. Double checked with supplier that correct parts were sent and also measured to doubledouble check. Now I have run out of ideas so would appreciate any advice. Only thing that has changed since fitting sprockets is I took wheels off to have new tires fitted before putting away for winter.

What can I say, just because I'm paranoid, doesn't mean people aren't out to get me! lol. I can delete this thread if you want, but that doesn't solve the main possible issue...

Thanks for that! That's something I hadn't considered and has really cheered me up. Is there a way off taking my post? 'Taking my post down'?

Errr... I hate to say it but... Yes, you can cut a key from a picture, I can cut a key from a picture with nothing but a blank and a needle file, that's not the issue... The problem is, what you've just done, is given some random person on E-Bay your bike key, AND your address!!! For the price of a key, that could turn out pretty expensive... And even if you DO get a perfectly working key in the post, doesn't mean they're not gonna come round later..!

I've raised a new post, Classic Yamaha Key Cutting, which relates to and continues this topic.

This is a follow-on from a previous post, 'RXS100 Spare Key', as it's applicable to any classic Yamaha or other bike with a simple key and warrants a wider audience. A company on EBay, 'Spare-Keys-4-u', was advertising the blank HON42 which my key was. I asked if they would tell me the length of the blank, as I wasn't sure whether the one in their illustration was the correct length. They asked me to send a photo, but I sent two, one of each face. I was told they could cut the key from the photos. I was sceptical but they offer a money back guarantee so I ordered one. I don't know whether it would work in every case, but I've tried the one I received today and it fits and functions perfectly. The cost was exactly a third of the price I was quoted by Timpsons.

Thanks for the link. HON42 is shown there under Honda motorcycles and is identical to my key, being a long shape. My bikes's ignition switch looks original, and the key also fits the locking fuel cap. They may have been replaced or maybe the same manufacturer supplied both Honda and Yamaha with these items.

SILCA is the brand name of the key, and HON42 is the key code for HONDA. But of course if the cross section is the same as yamaha, then it doesn't matter whether the blank is for Honda or Yamaha. If the blank doesn't match Yamaha then of course there is a outside possibility that the ignition switch and key is from a Honda and has been retro fitted. Just a thought. A useful link to key blanks from the internet. https://ekeyblanks.com/content/IlcoDirectoryVehicle.pdf

ROFL! Having used to be a shoe repairer / key cutter, I can confirm that's normal for Timpsons... Go find your local cobbler, he can probably do it.

Having received only one key with the bike I thought it prudent to obtain another. Yambits will try to help if I can provide the key code which is written on the bottom of the ignition switch but I am reluctant to start taking the bike apart, at least just yet. As it's a very basic key, marked SILCA HON42, I asked Timpsons if they could cut me one. They had the short version of the blank, but not the longer, that I require. Strange to have different size keys with the same number. Timpson can obtain a 'long' blank within a few days. I asked what the cost would be and was told £30 for the first key and £15 for any additional ones. When I expressed disbelief at what I thought was the high price, I was given a lot of waffle about quality etc. The Saturday girl in my local 'We sell everything' shop can cut a perfect key. She clamps the key and a blank in the machine, presses a button and within a few minutes, a perfect key is produced. HON42 blanks are available on EBay but they look like the short ones. My next step is to try the local locksmith shop. I can't send the key away for fear of it getting lost although I could go a reasonable distance to get one cut.

Thanks for your reply. I checked again, no sign of a lock and the seat is firmly bolted down. Looked again and saw there was a 10mm bolt at the lower right corner of the oil tank side panel which I removed. After gingerly pulling gently on the cover, the back swung outwards, holding the oil tank on its base. When I first looked to see how to reach the filler cap I noticed that it was positioned closely under a frame member, which had me confused. With the panel moving outwards it makes replenishment simpler, and cleaner. Good design, whenever it was changed; but Yamaha forgot to tell Haynes.

The lock is right under the edge of the seat just forward of the left shock. Bottom picture... YAMAHA RXS 100 RXS100 SEAT 5H5-W2472-00 | eBay

Silly question, but how does one gain access to the filler cap? The Haynes manual explains that the dual seat pivots on the RH side and is opened by a key operated latch on the LH side. This should give access to it, and although I can see the cap just below the fuel tank, I can't see where the lock is, if there is one. Thanks for your help.

No, I'm not named after Mr Plissken, it's not after the drink either... I have scars on my left index from a 14' Burmese Python bite

Incidently Snake , are you named after this guy or the drink?

Having re read and re-read his first post Snake, I don't think now he was looking at buying a spare part, it was a question on why was the OEM one so expensive. Given the price, I for one thought it was request to source a spare Silencer, but its the downpipe he was referring to, which is rusty. It sounds like he's going to keep it and rust treat it. and in retrospect I think my reply actually included the reason why its expensive: its 34 years old, rare as hens teeth, has to be imported and thats why yamaha and Fowlers want over £200 for it.

Aaah, that would have been good to know earlier... lol The part numbers are different. If they were the same, they would usually have the same part numbers. That said, for £28, go for it... Buy it and see if it fits... Ok, I'm just completely lost now... Exactly which part are you looking for???

Thanks for the suggestion Neo, which I'd follow if I needed a new exhaust downpipe. As it's only surface rust I'll probably wire-brush it off and spray it with Simoniz VHT silver, after treating the surface. In the past I've used Jenolite liquid, as opposed to jelly, for such a surface but the last bottle I bought seem very ineffective. For info. the liquid was a pink colour, I've used Kurust recently and found it works well but I don't know whether it's suitable for an exhaust pipe. I'll have to read the instructions. I won't be riding in the rain anyway so the pipe's unlikely to rust through.