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  1. Yesterday
  2. I don't seem to have a thumbs up one.
  3. Well thats good news, hope it works out for you. As a bit of fun, we have a ranking system within the forum from awarding thanks and likes etc. the more you get it moves you up through the tables. Popular posts can get gold, silver and bronze medals. Its just for fun and not to be taken seriously but it adds to your profile. On posts you'll notice a grey heart on the bottom right, and clicking on it will show a variety of icons. Anyone can click on them and you can click on as many as you like. I've given you a few likes and thanks and now your name will appear on the Leaderboard ranking for the week. You could end up with a gold medal!!
  4. I have messaged a friend in Oz and will pick it up with them late this evening when awake and try and arrange something Cheers for the link
  5. Don't you know anyone in Oz? who could buy it and send it over for you.? Or anyone planning on going over for a holiday?
  6. Ah ok ive just had this in a reply from their Oz website "We DO NOT SEND send overseas anymore. See Trading terms" so searching again CMSNL unfortunately not avalible
  7. Hi Dave again, False alarm!!!, item no 16 https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-dt175-1978-usa_model8652/partslist/D-07.html and only 4 euros each.......but not able to add to cart!! so probably not in stock! back to Oz then!
  8. 9 hours ahead in Victoria, Oz. its 02.30 there at 17.30 UK time. No email unfortunately, so looks like you're going to be making a call at 1 or 2 am! Let us know how you get on. Good luck
  9. Hey thanks, i am in the UK also and will try the Oz contact
  10. Hi Dave, welcome in. Yeah this is the trouble with running a 46 year old machine! and the availability of parts! I know I've got a 78 DTMX myself. Not aware of anyone remanufacturing them, but occasionally they will come up as New Old stock as people clear their shelves of old stock if they haven't cleared them already. You don't say where you are and this is a worldwide forum; the site owner lives in Australia and I'm posting from the UK. Certain parts are becoming rarer and are commonly called hens teeth, and these are a good example of them ! Having said that, I've found a pair in Australia for you. https://www.remarcables.com.au/Motorcycle-Parts/Ring-Plastic-Steering.aspx These are only small parts so won't be difficult to post out of Oz, I've bought things on ebay and had them shipped over, its no big deal. Worth contacting them if you want new ones.
  11. Can anyone point me in the right direction for 2A6-23157-00-00 . RING, PISTON FRTFRK, 2 plastic rings used by the DT175 and DT125 78 onwards, all the suppliers i have looked at are saying parts now unavailable or thinking someone may have had these made
  12. Last week
  13. The obvious answer here is: Poke a little deeper before you ask... However, there are a few points that discount the obvious answer. 1/ Asking early gives us time to poke the most likely options and the unlikely options while you continue to look. 2/ There's a reason we're here and helping: We like a puzzle! 3/ Getting strange answers often triggers something in your own mind. 4/ Why not? So, keep asking! lol
  14. Thank you for your detailed and helpful replies. I feel I'm asking questions too readily but I'm new to this and appreciate your taking the trouble to help. I think I may have answered my own question! I've just removed the silencer and found the the brake pedal hits a stop welded to the footrest bracket. There's a small flange at of the front of the stop which look as if a rubber buffer could be attached there. I've cut a piece of rubber tubing to fit it but it's not clear in the photo. Hopefully it will stay in place. Thanks again.
  15. P.s.. That rubber plug gives you access to do a visual inspection of the brake shoe thickness. .
  16. Are you 100% certain that the brake lever isn't bent at all?
  17. On My DT the adjustment stop for the brake pedal is on the frame, you might have something similar, or the bolt may be missing, worth a look??
  18. Hi Doc, same set up as my 400/4, Although on my brake pedal there is an adjustable stop to....well ...stop! whats happening to yours!! It is a case of moving the the drum brake lever on the splines and adjusting the rod to get the best position without fouling the silencer, but there is not a lot of spline positions available as the cut out in the shaft for the pinch bolt limits the available movement. It's just a case of trial and error to find the sweet spot. As regards to the amount of travel, on the one hand you don't want just a touch of your foot to lock the brakes up!, but there again, you don't want to be moving your foot so much that you wonder if the brakes will ever come on!! It's really down to personal preference to how much travel you give yourself for applying the rear brakes, I know when I've adjusted mine, I've thought WOOOHH that's not right!! and promptly readjusted it until i felt it was comfortable. Lengthening the brake rod by adjusting the screw/nut should push the brake pedal away from the silencer Incidently on my 400 I have a brake shoe wear indicator on the hub, new shoes, shifts the rear brake arm further back to accomodate the new shoes, and that in turn repositions the brake pedal. So whilst the brakes may be sufficient for the MOT, they don't actually look at the amount of shoe left, so it might be worthwhile inspecting the amount you have left, as the pedal touching the silencer may actually be the reason and new shoes may also solve your position problem. Hope thats of some help.
  19. I've noticed that the top of my rear brake pedal is in contact with the underside of the silencer and there are clear signs of wear on both parts. I'm sure there should be clearance between the items and if left, could wear a hole in the silencer. The rear hub lever and brake rod have an angle about 90º between them, I'd always believed that this angle should always be less than 90, anything more than that is wrong. Or is that an old wives' tale? Would moving the hub lever, a spline or so on the shaft, make things any better? Any explanation of what's wrong or what I can do to fix it would be appreciated. Bike has a recent MOT so brakes should work OK. I had thought of wrapping a thin strip of rubber round the pedal, but it might burn on the silencer.
  20. My paranoid suggestion for this instance would be: Send them the pictures, order the key to a FRIENDS house instead of yours... Or a PO box or dropbox or something... Just not the same address the bike is kept at.
  21. Just ordered one, paid 120£ with shipping from Spain. Should be here in next 4 days.
  22. Thanks both for your comments. I was trying to be helpful but your remarks are completely valid; it isn't wise to pass that sort of information to strangers. No point in deleting the post, better let it stand so that anyone who is thinking of buying a key that way is warned of the possible dangers.
  23. On the plus side , you've got a working key!! and just to reassure, I've looked at the guy on ebay, and he does have good feedback and he only sells keys. So there's every chance it will indeed be okay and you won't lose your bike! Having said that I'm a suspicious ol' scrote just like Snake, but it should always be prudent to check or consider these things in the "Am I giving away too much information" scheme of things!! We look out for each other, but i think it's likely you're safe on this one.
  24. Ok, well, presumably the chain is not touching the chain guard? (if it has one) Then it's going to be a process of elimination, If you're taking the wheel off, then run the motor in gear so the front sprocket just spins, see if the clicking is related to just the sprocket. Then put the chain on, and see if clicks before you attempt to realign the wheel. It may well be chain alignment, I'm sure there are plenty of vids on you tube, here's one.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4m9tdTN2OKo It will only be something simple causing it, especially if it was okay before!! Good luck let us know how you get on.
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