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Looks like you dismounted the headlamp in the end to drop it out of the way. I'm sure the oil light and neutral light only come on together with the key before you actually start the motor, once running the oil pressure keeps the oil light off. Incidently, I got offered 10% off from those owners manuals from the ebay seller simply by looking at them for you. I declined the offer.

Congratulations..? lol

Thanks All for the advice. I've finally checked the bulb, and that of the Low Oil Level warning one, which is supposed to illuminate as a check when the bike is in neutral, according to Haynes, as that too didn't work. As can be seen from the photo it's quite a palaver, but there's no other way. The bulbs were intact, which I wasn't expecting, so maybe one day I'll check to see why but at least the Neutral light works.

From what I remember of bikes from this era, turning the light won't help, it will still be in the way... As a different direction, what about the clock unit? What's holding that on? Would it be easier to displace the whole clock unit?

RD200 parts list motoparts 1974 Rd200 Parts for sale | eBay

I'm looking for spares for my RD200

I reckon, it might be a case of unscrewing the headlight bolts slightly so the headlamp can be swivelled facing downwards, that might give you enough access to those two screws to the console.

I wouldn't put to much hope on that one Doc, so few members post these days and the chance of a fellow RXS100 owner coming to the rescue,....you will have stripped down the headlight and replaced the faulty bulb long before then!

Thanks for the links. It does look that the headlight will have to be removed; although it seems strange that Yamaha would choose such a difficult and time-consuming way to replace a bulb. Perhaps in the case of the RXS100 its designer didn't want unsightly screw heads spoiling the appearance of the instrument cluster; although I would prefer the screws to be visible and accessible. Hopefully fellow RXS100 owners, with experience of changing warning lamps, will know of a quick and easy way to do so.

How funny!!! This one .....is for the RXS100.....but details my Honda 400/4 in the description!! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235600682459?itmmeta=01J044BDGYP4KNTK641NQB3DHT&hash=item36dae51ddb:g:uFEAAOSwYm5kRo7l&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAACADbBC%2FXrUNNO%2FlPgm30si6nd7yW0AipGvdbDh%2Box7rD1izA5Eh1f8il0gm%2Bb7zfNuSNZpzjUS2moxYCHT0FA6tNFzixFESu03Oda6Y5mvzI%2Bq3%2Fn3SBbMREpOOY5GWvT7jzjwVzECS1fSJvncyTZZwLrsXcejMTxcTOdMlvVI3evFgSobG%2BMY1eUvfValY2dX0U7C3HWNBITPM%2BBheve9J5IurDjCFE606N16FU23EaQ0vGdXEHpyDQtSyyHpMFt7loefQUzxWurHWXm0eqQ6gyv4sWUxbWNuZAeTSYN3EK0Mhb4QXV94e1PaVzCui5%2Fw%2BHYz%2FDAm6KXPzybcOWTO8FufH1AcxiFfOSWOPXq51PwBLvL9cpM9Y9PUswId4Ylmy3SM2rPF9ii8beH9qbCYILl05DhmTBcnguw780ZcPbZa4xSv3WRAxKUF8xQnyi3lMa%2FPSumrZCowjV7UP39gXQhjUy1gLur8gt1TmcI4QxzELcMK3tFtRl6wGOq--ZSa7RY4pMFv%2FEOfwC1cXWZ8DF%2Bq3cMP6wKPguxJxgo18a7FcekonS%2Fm4LKWEZh7DLzOOC1ay78urUCypwwvn06wU7IIjOTsA332E9clTRtf%2BptTHgiBXH3tRY1W4VRGFvtN1IZJWjDntbwSrsIMn4U%2B0ERN%2FlL%2FNfondvz1TpwxvJs|tkp%3ABFBM2NithIFk

Its quite possible that you're going to have to remove the headlight to gain access, having said that, whilst the haynes manual might not mention how to change bulbs in the module, the smaller Owners manual which would have come with the bike is the likely place to find instructions on how to change them. This little book....https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235341192253?itmmeta=01J043YY59T1P4TZY2TR0KEP7A&hash=item36cb6d9c3d:g:uFEAAOSwYm5kRo7l&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8LXObfEkQPr0c575R0kffTG4WY7jOw8CQcSFOu13PYq20MJVDKVpt85hrjQLUSgEEwmjoUtdpLlcc1Y6tNH4%2BrUECEkVhs71%2BRymVk%2BGZuJw3eR%2B%2FhxLM%2BMO1lCKtUS2Wptp%2B4jqzLJruEBxAGxKENuOSFrOO5AH66AtCBGxvnOyNWNGxgMkjwrtM3eNcYPSeM6dybkvSeW23J16792i67ZqHlfmu6tRzYj1dlQLLkTSEQih%2Bwouj7eHccskqmZ6b7zv7JzyggYJrbjkMW4AjgnbRDWLzMaqvHpiHiz%2FFfl0I1eqVT95QUR0g8%2BXr7mf7w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMhuP7g4Fk you may already have a copy.

Yes, that's a similar item. There is less than 19mm clearance between the front screw head and the headlamp bowl so unless there's a special screwdriver that fits, the headlight needs to be removed; as far as I can see. I could raise the speedo and tacho but I don't think that would help.

Are you referring to this Doc? This is on my Honda 400/4 but from your description it sounds similar A photo often helps...

Could someone please tell me how this is done. The Haynes manual explains that the top cover of the warning lamps compartment, which is retained by two screws under the mounting bracket must first be removed. It also says that all other models have the screws positioned on the top (the most practical place for them). I can see the screws but as they are obstructed by the headlight unit, this appears to have to be removed to gain access. I can't see how to do this, if it is necessary, nor does the Haynes manual offer any guidance. Thank you for any advice.

Blown up some parts? We'll see... lol

Parts! Got some? or you want some? Got a feeling this is a bot or spammer!

Also known as 'bits'...

parts

Thanks

I'm near Brighton myself! Excellent. Nice to.meet you.

A quick google search reveals that: Orange Coolants are also known as OAT coolants. OAT coolant stands for Organic Acid Technologies and is specifically designed for newer vehicles that contain more nylon or aluminium parts in them. whereas blues and greens are typically ethylene glycol based coolant. What it does go on to say though, is you shouldn't mix the colours.

That is something I too don't understand. I'm also surprised that only the capacity is listed in the owners manual and the coolant spec.

So I assume with all these new parts , including the plug, its been set to the right gap and not just used straight out of the packet? having said that you say it runs at higher revs when you open the throttle, but not so good at lower revs. i can't see it being related to the plug but a higher reving bike at throttle will be glowing nicely and burning fuel correctly, at lower revs it will be cooler (not much I admit) but it's a possibilty. On the basis that the electrics are working as they should, afterall you sound like its had it all replaced, coil, plug, etc, I doubt its the plug cap, as they either work or they don't, but again, its worth a check to rule it out. I think therefore the likely culprit is going to be fuel related. and when I say fuel I include its delivery AND its air/fuel ratio. which carb are you now using , the old one or the new one? Is the carb the correct one in the first place? are you satisfied the old carb is the OEM that came with the bike when new. This would be one of my first questions. Devils advocate here...its not a 175 carb on a 125 is it?

Hi there, according to CMSNL website, which lists other bikes to the part number, it states: 576-81350-11-00 fits models DT175 1974 USA DT175 1975 USA DT1C 1972 USA This product fits to 3 models. We are showing the first 10. Please log in to see all models. On the plus side they do have one in stock!! but it's not cheap! and on an ebay.com listing the advert states: Part Number: 576-81350-11-00 Fits: DT175A - 1974 , DT175B - 1975, DT175C - 1976. But the photo doesn't show a close up of the rotor for the stamped number.

Is it burning oil? P.S. I've removed the duplicate post...