Airhead

do the contacts inside the plug and socket on the ignition switch look ok and check the brn wires are secure?

I imagine you just oil them on assemly and after that the fork oil will lube them?

The usual place for a break is where the loom goes around the steerer tube at the front, try turning the bars lock to lock with the key on and the brake pressed...anything?

well then, if the voltage is leaving the keyswitch on brn and not reaching (for example) the brake switch on brn, then something between the two has disconnected or theres a break in the wiring

you'll find a brn at the rear brake switch, check it there

it's nothing to do with a condensor

desnt make sense to me, as long as youve got a voltage on the brn wire you have feeds to various bits of kit, lights / horn etc...cant think of a reason why they wont work as yet.

Keep it up foamy

you need a proper flywheel puller, what have you been using?

what's on the brn wire from the keyswitch?

Thats great news bippo, sorry you'll be leaving us though

cant think whats wrong right now, can you get your hands on another meter and repeat the tests, see if you get 12v ? oh one more thing, does the 19v brown wire reading change much if you operate the horn push?

wow that is one shit multimeter you got there, sure it wasnt 1.9v lol

WTF 19v, was the engine running then...why do I have to root information out of you yamman!? so the engine was running, charging at 19v?

so you saw 12v with the - probe on the tank bolt and the + probe on brown from the keyswitch?

place the - probe on the battery - teminal, check the brown from the ignition switch repeat with the - pobe on a clean engine cover screw

where did you place the - probe?

you said you've got power into and out of the keyswitch, how did you test this and what wires?

no dash lights, no horn, no brake light, no headlight, no tail light?

power into the ignition? you talking about the keyswitch here, might help to be more specific so without looking at a diag, out the battery + through fuse in red wire to keyswitch, out the keyswitch into brown wire that will feed several things when the key is turned. Dont forget your battery - connection, needs to be clean intact and a good connection to whatever frame connections there are

yeah ridiculously expensive, theres a DTR forum y'now, I'd join and ask there

Yea I'm sure they'll fit but that route may present you with more problems, I'd bide my time and wait until one came up

I dunno specifically but theres usually split collets at the top of the shocker holding it in. what I do is compress the shocker in a sash clamp to compress the spring, then feed some big 8mm wide zip ties through the spring and pull them tight. then back off the sash clamp and the spring will be left compressed so enabling said collets to be removed. Obviously working with compessed springs needs a great deal of caution tho Jimmy as I'm sure you'll know...Take care mate Like this

Stand spring

Yeah I'm a fan of the split lik too, I'll be needing a new chain on the bandit within 5000 miles but that could take ages. I'd like to fit a split link too when the time comes unless theres a good reason not to