Airhead

Hi Kezzer and welcome to the forum, youll see about posting pics in the FAQ's bit have a mooch arount ...Paul

Sell the cage, Youll need the DT as a winter hack...Thats what I did anyway...26 years ago...

Hi Phil, you mean the winscreen on the bike, there isnt a law as far as I know.

Great looking bike Ryan, so the DT has gone?

Hi Jim.Try this http://www.tdm-trx.nl/Manuals/4TX_97_Suppl.Manual10.pdf

Were having a meeting to decide... Yes well done mits, now remember what has just happened and you will be better placed if it happens again

I got myself a 'Big One' expansion pipe from ebay yesterday, its a used one and will need some preperation a a re-paint (Its not the chrome one), they are a good quality aftermarket pipe for these bikes, you do see them crop up occasionally, sometimes OEM ones and sometimes gianelli typeand other ones too, That one you have found looks ok for the money but dont buy the big one tail pipe from ebay yet...I have seen them cheaper somewhere else. As for the joint between expansion pipe and silencer aftermarket ones dont tend to use them, they are usually a slip on arrangement

I'm with Jim here, check for water in the float bowl, water is denser than fuel and so will not get sucked throgh the main jet (which just so happens to be the lowest point of the carb) Remember this? April 27th "well, today it happened. for the first time in about 6 months my trusty thrusty little DT let me down . after weeks of sunny weather the heavens decided to open and it has p*ssed it down almost non-stop all day, and whilst i was at school the DT was left outside in the elements for six hours, so i come out and jumped straight on it, started 2nd kick with the choke on and ldled nicely, but as i get to the end of the street it started four-stroking and wouldn't rev above 2-3k, i thought nothing of it at the time because the bike was still cold."

Hey...join the Tory Party, become an MP...and we'll buy the horse shit for you... ...theiving b4stards!!!...not just Tories mind...all of them.

Hi Alec, Might be a blocked exhaust or exhaust baffle, have a look at the baffle, if its the tube type clean it with a blowlamp and wire brush. ...Paul

Dont forget you do need to have some slack, I dont know how much, that is for you to find out (a manual) or ask on here but I would guess at around 1.5" at the centre of the chain until you find out the correct figure, remember better slack than tight.

Hi and welcome to the forum, Have you lubed the chain and checked / set the tension (slack)??

Hi Hudders, welcome to the forum...

Come on Gene...no self respecting biker wouldnt be...

It sounds rich yes, but I wouldnt expect this to cause a cut out and an extended period before it re-starts, is the fuel tank vent blocked or trapped so causing a vacuum, the symptom you are experiencing can be caused by this.

Ride slow and wear shades... ...

orrr it mght grow to be a 250...

It is important that a two stroke engine is pressure tight and to check my DT175MX I made a a test rig and did some testing today. This is the test rig I made, it fits nicely in the inlet manifold where the reed valve is, So I removed the silencer and blocked off the exhaust using the original connecting rubber from exaust to silencer, I bunged the end up using a copper piping stop end. and then fitted the test rig into the manifold and pumped the engine and exhaust to 10 psi And bugger...it leaks so the only place I can test is the right hand crank seal, to test this one put the engine breather pipe in some water No bubbles here so the leak is elsewhere, It could be on my blanked off exhaust, the exhaust manifold, cyl head or base joint, my test rig, inlet manifold or left crank seal. All I know is it drops from 10psi to 5psi in just over 3 mins, so I'm going to have to get some leak detector spray, I suppose I could use soapy water but I have the real thing at work so abandoned the job for now....

If you do get her going, after you have bled the air from the pump by removing the little screw from the top of the pump, then start the bike and while its idling use your hand to turn the pump pulley to maximum, this will pump the oil at full stroke so it will get to the carb quickly...

Welcome to the forum Alex, thats a nice looking bike youve got there, As for the electrics , the engine will run with or without battery as its a magneto ignition system, the main headlamp will also work because that is also from the magneto, the rest of the electrics, tail lights, indicators, instrument lights, and headlamp pilot light are all from the battery. there is just one fuse in a clear plastic holder, I think it is behind the left side panel...cant remember

You need to do the test either with the carbs removed or with the throttles fully open, If the bike has diaphragm carbs you are unlikely to develop enough vacuum to open the throttles by hand cranking.

If the two stroke oil tank is completely empty, you will need to bleed the air from the pump after filling it, its also wise to purge the line too to get the oil to the carb, also serves as a means of checking the pump is working correctly

Ouch!!!, but I doubt the typical Yank B that Rich Rich B...

In the mag Ignition pulser coil Wht/Red - Blk = 12.4 Ohms +-10% Charge coil Brn - Blk = 420 Ohms +-10% . Red - Blk 13.6 Ohms +- 10% Orange from CDI to coil LT You say the bike has been used off road, what means of stopping the engine has been used, maybe theres a switch in the off position, this is done by switching the B/W CDI wiring to chassis.

The main jet on a uk bike is 130, try the sunlight test, use a nylon bristle pulled from a brush to clean out as well as carb cleaner spray. Seems like youre on the right track now but now the problem is the main jet circuit. Come to think of it if the pilot jet was blocked its likely that the main jet may be blocked and its possible that the needle jet may also need cleaning, if you unscrew the needle jet you will see a series of tiny holes along its length in the side of the tube, may as well have a look at these too. ...Paul