Airhead

Youre not wrong we do whatever we can to help. Trouble is there are not many XT125 owners frequenting us here. As I suggested you PM another member I see you did not do that but posted a message on his profile instead, thats about as much use as a chocolate ashtray if he rarely visits his profile page...whereas a PM would have been notified to him by email. I PM'd him for you...let's hope he can help.

Haha, thats it then...next story I must have Scottish blood in me...either that or i'm getting to be a grumpy ol tw4t

It should run lean without the filter so two things spring to mind 1: There is some debris blocking the filter box inlet somewhere or 2: You have a rich carb issue that you are compensating by removing the filter Check your float heights, give the float a shake...is it punctured?

And did she?

Ouch!

Blowed if I can mate

try some WD40 on the switch, disconnect it and short out the terminals (loom side) as a get you going but dont leave it shorted...get a new switch if needs be

Welcome 81DT125 , where are you based? so thats an aircooled DT125MX is it? ...Paul

If you do suspect the ig switch try unplugging the connector from it that houses the blue/red wire. Then on the loom side of the connector short out red - brown - blu/red this will effectively bypass the ig switch as if it is in position 2

do all tests in the same way, ie engine stopped...lights on...test across battery and note voltage then negative on battery to test points. now start to compare readings further back up the loom like the blue/red out of the ignition switch by the way that blue changes to blu/red in the main loom, you will see that at the 3 way connector (under the seat?) You may find the culprit is the ignition switch itself due to a dirty contact, especially if it is an old or original one.

Good news, its great to hear her singing again eh

I'm sure we can improve greatly on this too, in a perfect world the two readings should be the same so you are losing a hefty 0.8 volts through loose or dirty connections.

i guess you will be going down a tricky road of jetting, you may never get it spot on as there is more than just jets to consider. i'll give you an example...There were two versions of my bike (DT175MX), each version had different airboxes, the early one had a more restrictive airbox than the later one. They both had similar carbs but the later version had much richer jetting in order to compensate for its more free flowing airbox. Not only that but it has a richer throttle slide cutaway profile too so you see that jetting changes alone will not necessarily come to the right conclusion.

Yeah I must admit it does look like they 'fined' you for having the audacity to buy from elsewhere. Can they justify the bill, is it itemised or did you just pop the card in the slot without asking?

yes but it's a free service, and the Glasgow dealer made no money from the sale Lesson learned I would say, if youre prepared to travel long distances for a bargain and all that.

I've heard of this before. why didnt you take to the dealer you bought it from.

here here, but Edinboro looks much better by day

I could do a current check if I can find my flashers and a relay...as you know mine havent been titted for a long long time, but i DO still have the mounts on the frame I think i'll buy one of those relays and re-fit mine now, then do the test with each

What year, I dunno anything about the bike but if you are looking for help you should give as much accurate info as possible...or are they all the same?

welcome John..."too old to get your leg over"...pray tell, just how old is that then

I was heading down the road of trying to sort this from what is standard, ie it could be that there is a fault and that the degree of flashing of the tail light is unacceptable even taking into account the drain a standard relay introduces. I still think this is a sensible investigation at this stage. However I do like the suggestion of introducing a flasher relay with much less draw from the battery, an electronic one rather than a bi-metal strip with heat coil. I have found this, purpose built and not an led version...what do you think? http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/710

Thats a good idea, you mean a more modern solid state device for a 6v indicator?

The regulator is only for the headlamp bulb so forget that one I suggest 1: will the battery operate the horn without the motor running...ie is it a good battery? 2: without engine running, turn key to operate tail light, take a measurement across the battery terminals and note the reading 3: take a measurement of the voltage at the blue wire bullet connector that feeds the tail lamp to battery negative (whilst still plugged in and light on) report back with readings

Thats right so you have to thrash it everywhere you go and shorten the bikes life...have fun Either that or put it back as it should be

Looking good, powder coating looks great on the frame. i would recommend plastcote BBQ paint for the exhaust available from Wilkinsons stores, it's good and It's cheap