Airhead

Wow we are getting some great intro's today Greetings Ryan lots of people use photobucket...upload your pics there and copy the IMG tags...past them in here

Greetings Larry

Greetings Giorgio It's great to see you still hanging on in there at the ripe old age of 75. I'm sure you will be well suited to the YBR250 we dont get them here in the UK...sadly the 250cc size has fallen out of favour but maybe one day it will come back. I might add though that with all your experience and expertise at recovering oil from the ground you might have considered something a little more 'classic' Heres one that caught my eye http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171138423797?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_229wt_958 Thanks for the compehensive intro it made an interesting read.

Its easy to see the needle jet is clear, however I have been banging on about the bypass hole into the venturi thats what I wanted you to winess it is clear with your spray and straw. It is this route the fuel through the pilot jet will take and the symptom of dying when the choke is not on would suggest the problem is related to pilot fuel. I have posted pics in one of your other threads of the bypass hole

Its the fuel pipe spigot, just tap it back in place, It's not sopposed to come out but sometimes they do, and on fuel taps too (petcocks)

when you say you witness carb spray comong through the tube holes...what tube holes are you referring to?

Greetings mike

Greetings kepeb, like the intro

you shot it Chris

there's more on ebay than they say are left

yes

Oh no Jimmy, hope she hasnt done any lasting damage

ask the guy on the 2 stroke forum to check how many millimetres before TDC that line is If he has a DTI

Any more news about Scott It's been 2 months now?

I said to connect a jumper to a brown wire, NOT an earth or back wire! If youre that much of a novice you better make the jumper fused, say 20A...or get someone to do it for you because frankly if you did actually do what you were thinking of (which isnt what I suggested) it would be a fire risk

what does the manual say for the original system FFS

is it losing coolant?

maybe a bad ignition switch though, to prove that fit a jumper from battery+ to one of the brown wires

you mean they dont come up at all? could it be the weight of the trailer?

Greetings Sandrina

what does the manual say then?

yes, aka needle jet.

DT175MX Ignition checks There were two versions of ignition systems on DT175MX bikes. The mk1 version from the earlier bike had a 7 wire CDI the early bikes had a round section swing arm. The mk2 version had a 6 wire CDI, the red wire is absent on these. These bikes have a square section swing arm. The HT cap (AKA spark plug cap) unscrew it off the HT lead, it is supposed to be a resistor cap so should be around 5K Ohms The ignition coil primary...Orange wire to battery neg should be 1 Ohm +- 10% The ignition coil secondary...HT lead to battery neg should be 5900 Ohms +- 20% If the readings are much higher, check the ignition coil has a clean ground connection. Yes and the ignition coil mounting is a wiring harness ground point too, so check its clean and bright there. Disconnect all the wires from the CDI. Then using your multimeter on the loom side of the connectors. Black probe on a clean part of HT coil ground point Red probe on...... Orange, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 1 Ohm (HT coil primary) Brown, Meter to 2k Ohms, expect 420 Ohms for mk1 and 300 Ohms for mk2 (Magneto charge coil) White/Red, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 12.4 Ohms for mk1 and 10 Ohms for mk2 (Magneto pulser coil) Red, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 13.6 Ohms for mk1 only. (Source coil 2 or high speed coil) Black female connector, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect dead short repeat for black male connector Any difference in the results for the two black wires may possibly be rectified by cleaning the front engine mounting bolt and a little of the frame behind the bolt head, then tighten to torque spec. Black/White, Meter to 20K Ohms, with ignition off expect dead short, with key on expect open circuit, with kill operated expect dead short (Engine kill operation) If all these tests are good you would be well advised to try another CDI. If they are not good...reading higher...disconnect and clean any plugs/sockets you find along the way, if the magneto coils are reading lower, new ones needed if more than 10%...or so the book says Finally, if you are working with a box full of mixed parts! Mk1 1 flywheel is Mitsubishi F3T250, it has two slots in the face of the flywheel Mk2 flywheel is Mitsubishi F3T251, it has four slots in the face of the flywheel

Greetings Paul so then, your bike is a DT175E or F in the USA, much the same as our UK DTMX's with a few differences I'll post an ignition fault find this evening...There should be no oil in the magneto casings. New here? we have a new members section where you can post a little intro