pilninggas

nice write up

Happy Birthday Drew

Have you put fresh fuel in? If not i'd drain the old petrol out and get some new stuff in. A bit of easy start into the inlet will probably help too. GL.

JHS Racing near me (keynsham, B.A.N.E.S), are Leo Vince agents. Google for their number. Doubt they will be competitive on price, but worth a call. I'd buy off of the continent if it is much, much cheaper; having said that the Hein Gericke near me will often match EU prices if ou speak to the manager - they did with my Givi rack (maybe other places will do the same).

Pat, you won't get rid of him that easily!

if you join up DT, i might just change it! On a more pertinant note; I consider this forum the daddy of the XJ6 forum . This place really seeded it, there of lots people on her who ride a 2009+ XJ6 with no model specific forum [until now of course]. Like Jim i will still be around here (maybe more ), but the forum will be useful for issues and debates for the XJ6. I think it'll take a while to catch-on, having said that Yahama UK (and Europe as a whole) have sold a lot of these bikes, so there must be a decent number of potential members out there.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Felge-vorne-Yamaha-TDM-900-RN08-/150542930916?pt=Motorrad_Kraftradteile&hash=item230d0ed3e4 felge = rim in german. Make sure you search europe/worldwide. I have bought lots from ebay germany and always had great service.

Matt when looking at any Race Replica just apply some real common sense. Go for lower mileage (less thrashing) and better condition. It is a buyers market, so don't buy anything that raises any doubts in your mind. Try to go for a fuel-injected model, as they tend to be more reliable. Look for a caring owner with service history (nothing wrong if they have done it themself - imho ). And only buy with sensible modifications, not daft paint-jobs or bolt on tat. Avoid anything that has racy exhaust if the owner does not have the original in with the deal. Look at lots, heck you may be able to bid sellers down if you are the only person viewing.

Congratulations your new Baby, to your Missus and to You.

Bloody Hell, what a nightmare . I hope you get back to your former self asap.

nah not ABS, just bog-standard pull-n-pray! Yeah i hope this one lasts, i had designs on doing 60,000+ on the last one

yeah hopefully this one will last a little longer! -not sure if i'm wearing well, maybe wearing out! Will do

i suffer from OCD when it comes to getting a bike at a bargain price.

thanks OT

After getting knocked off my last XJ6 and the bike getting wrote-off, i didnt imagine i'd get a new one for the same price as the first (£4100). However today put a deposit down on a XJ6S from George White for £3999 on 0%. Chuffed to bits...only downer was dropping the TDM coming out of work....oh well you win some you lose some. Will be glad to be an XJ6 owner again, they are so underrated it is unbelievable.

the 2-smoke boys will be along to enlighten us all in a bit. as far as i know the energy induction system is designed to reduce the pulsation effects on the inlet, as the crankcase draws in charge. i dare say that the engine also 'sees' a larger vacuumed area may also help the engine to develop more torque lower down in the rev-range. knowing yamaha it is probably produces complex harmonics too (them being musical instrument makers and all ).

Yes Foamy, finish this properly and you have a reasonably desirable, appreciating classic.

Nice to see the US finally got the bastard. Wish i had been the US soldier who put some lead through him.

i think it partial'd at 42000 miles and i went to 1st oversize. i always ran with the oil pump 'turned-up' a bit anyway. Solid little bikes really, i scraped it in the end as i had chucked it up the road a ton of times and the rear suspension siezed solid and resisted all attempts to free it off.

I had 2 RXS100s, the first (picked up on my 17th Birthday) I did more than 30,000 miles with (don't know how much more the odo broke). The second one i had was pants tho, never made as much power. Shocking front brake on them, totally not fit for purpose.

haha quality.

I am top of the league, say I am top of league. C'mon you Rovers, c'mon you blues.

each carb has a float bowl (you can remove them with the carbs on the bike, but it is a pig). Take the carbs off, flip them over and take the float bowls off once at a time. You may well see muck in the bowls (off course it may now be on the chamber ceiling, as the carbs are inverted. I usually clean these deposits with thinners, WD40, carb cleaner etc. Each float bowl chamber, will have a bank of floats, these are orange plastic (check each one for holes or damage as this will cause problems). Very carefully remove the float pivot pin (don't lose it!). Then ease the float out and the valve 'torpedo'. Clean those orifices (oh-er missus). My experience is that you will see specks in end of the hole that the 'torpedo' sits in, you can blast this away with WD40/straw. When reassembling, you must seat the float o-ring correctly - i always use a tiny, tiny amount of fairy liquid to ensure this happens. When playing with the floats you may put the float heights out, all I can suggest is to go very carefully and treat all the parts like they are made of gold leaf. You could of course set the float heights---- These carbs wear out badly, google fzr1000 emulsion tubes for a whole host of trauma. Tuning them is a real challenge, the ones on my EXUP have been off tons of times. At the moment I have my spare TDM carbs (the same type Mikuni CV downdraft), they are worn on the tubes (perceptible amounts of ovalling) and the float heights (fuel levels) were out. This all leads to rich running. Look at your exhaust is it sooty? If so the carbs are rich and may require work.