R1evad

Whenever you come across a total tosser like this, ask for a ticket and tell him you`ll see them in court. It aint never gonna happen !! Failing that, if you DO want to go to court, you can always give `em a slap

Where abouts are you based? (anywhere near Hertfordshire?) Any decent off road dealer or multipurpose MC shop will be able to source you a new rim. (Steel or Ally) and you can change diameter to make different tyre sizes available too, That is how supermotards were born. Crossers with sports bike sized rims! Keep your original hub and just lace the appropriate sized rim with the spoke holes drilled to match your old rim. DONT TAKE IT APART YOURSELF........They need to see how the old one is laced to make the new one up. Just hawk it round your local bike shops, you will be ok

Just goes to show how good the originals were. have you lost the cat and changed the can aswell? If so a power commander is the only way forward, Methinks.

Follow the link to FOTOBUCKET and open an account. http://register.photobucket.com/ Upload your pictures to your album. When you have them in place at fb. copy the url and paste into YOC forum page. DO NOT DELETE PICTURES POSTED ON THE FORUM FROM FOTOBUCKET AS THEY WILL DISAPEAR FROM THE FORUM PAGE AS WELL!

were not here for a long time, were here for a good time!

And don`t forget the bodgers favorite catch phrase.............MOLEGRIPS, THE WRONG TOOL FOR EVERY JOB

In addition to all of the above, try to keep your chain OFF the ground. it makes attacking it more difficult if swinging in the air. Also minimises the effect of Liquid Nitrogen, as needs to be "pooled" around the links to do a proper job. A shotgun helps, but if you are in the city, a bit hard to get a certificate these days. Anti personnel land mines are good too, but care needs to be taken when laying them, You don`t want to damage your paintwork. Check your clip ons, to make sure they both at the same angle, and check your wheel alignment, in case the forks are twisted in the yokes. It sounds like a fairly gentle lay down, rather than a crash over, as you say there is no, (or minimal) bodywork damage. If your bar ends and levers are ok, the rest of the bike probably is too. Good luck, I hope you don`t have the pleasure of coming across the scumbag(s) again soon.

Nice choice of bike mate, Shame I only get to your neck of the woods while going past really quick on a train to Europe. PS. Should be RIDES OUT, as it is the ride thats plural not the out. (like brothers in law, not brother in laws)

NOT ME, I`M ENGLISH And yet they tell us that going "a bit quick" down the bypass is dangerous and try taking our money and livelyhoods away, They ought to start Charging in hospitals if the diagnosis is "Stupidity"

Where abouts is this new carbuncle being spawned? We had a bout of end of budget road "improvements" Here in North Hertfordshire. There are more Red shellgrip stripes and oval speed markings than you can shake a stick at, mind you the white line marked "bike filtering lanes" down the middle of some rural roads are really useful!!

Not being funny, but if you are not mechanically minded and have little or no experience in motorcycle engineering, doing a clutch is not the place to start learning. You will likely end up with a face full of springs a big puddle of oil and a box of pieces (maybe all of them) and a bike in the back of a van on the way to a sympathetic bike repairer. Get hold of ANY Haynes manual for a four stroke, four cylinder bike and have a look at the clutch pages. they list it as 3 spanners (out of five) for difficulty, "Fairly difficult".."suitable for competent D.I.Y. mechanic". Get some help and watch whats going on and ask loads of questions, and try doing the next one. Did you store your bike on the prop stand? if you do, all the oil runs down to the left side of the engine exposing the now dry clutch to any moisture in the air inside your crankcase. Get it up on a paddock stand and run it again. so the clutch is bathed in oil, and put a cable tye or similar around the lever to put the cable into full tension. the hot oil bath may free it up. also try pulling the lever in and out as the engine is running. even if this does work, you might end up with a grabby / juddery clutch, in which case it will need to be stripped. At least you will be able to ride it to the shop though. When you store your bike in future, level it up by placing on a paddock stand, so some oil sits in the bottom of the clutch housing, then run the engine and try the clutch etc every now and then. Good luck. R.

Love to see him do a lap of the Ring doing that, He would never make it to Tiergarten!!

A torch and a magnet (one of those telescopic aerial mounted jobbies). Keep poking in and around the frame and on top of the gearbox etc. See if there are any open sections of frame rail it can have dropped down. Strip more and more bodywork till you are sure it is not somewhere dodgy. Persevere, it is there somehere.

This one was bought for £275 a little while ago and is now being race prep`d There are a few of the Ringjunkies who RACE these baby`s, so they cannot be that bad. (apart from the 16" wheels)

All you will do is cost yourself more money! Stick to the original sizes, the bikes suspension and chassis settings wre all calculated to work best with what Mr. yam fitted as standard. A wider rear tyre will slow your turn in and do nasty things to your steering in general. If you are looking to improve your bikes handling, spend the extra on something stickier rather than bigger.

I have a project 1987 (D) FZR400 that I would like to put modern rubber on. Anyone Know which 17"" rear wheel will fit, either straight in or with the minimum of fuss. Failing that whats the stickiest 18" rubber I can get?

Was just coming on to say the same, NORTON flagged it up. Thanks LTR

If you spilled petrol, then put your gloves on without a proper wash, they will have picked up some of the chemicals and every time you wear them you are renewing the irritant application to your (now clean) hands. (have a sniff and see what they smell like inside) If your gloves are old, as you say, it might be time to invest in some new ones. Think about using a barrier cream before you do any work on your bike. As someone mentioned above, it is not just what you have sprayed / applied to your bike, it is everything else on the road and spayed up by traffic that you are getting covered in. NB, THIS IS ONE OF THE BEST REASONS NOT TO PUT YOUR GLOVES INSIDE YOUR LID WHEN YOU PARK UP. THE CHEMICAL RESIDUES ON YOUR GLOVES DO NOT DO THE LINING OR THE POLYSTYRENE (or whatever) INNER SHELL OF YOUR LID ANY GOOD. NOR IS IT ADVISABLE TO THEN RUB YOUR HEAD AND FACE IN IT EVERY TIME YOU PUT YOUR LID BACK ON. YOU WOULDN`T WASH YOUR LID IN A ROADSIDE PUDDLE, WOULD YOU, SO WHY RUB THE SAME SH**E INSIDE IT WITH YOUR GLOVES

That brings back memories (from a VERY long time ago ), When I was first let loose with some tools on a moped I was 11 though AND had to pay the local bike shop FIVE SHILLINGS to extract the remains of my handy work Lessons learned young are best remembered................Good luck girls, don`t fall at the first hurdle, and learn how to change tyres a bit quick, you WILL be needing all the skills you can muster. PS: If you play that clip backwards, iy will come out easy :lol:

try gaffer tape on the swing arm before you use the stand, or some old inner tube stuck to the pads of your stand. Just be careful though, you dont want to make it thick enough to induce a wobble.

Looks tidy, but you are colour blind BLUE is best on any year, unless you like another colour of course.

There`s wisdom in them there posts, to get any real enjoyment out of a full blown sportsbike you need a fair bit of experience and skill, something you cannot gain without learning on something a little less focussed. (there are no prizes for being the fastest rider in casualty ) There is not a toddler born who didn`t go down smack on their face when they first tried to run, without the stability gained by experience of a fair bit of crawling and walking. Don`t get led into getting something just because your mates have got one or trying to "keep up with the Jones` " Have you thought about a Thundercat, or a Fazer, they will both keep you entertained for a fair while and resell easily when you are ready to change. Both are far better at two up work as well, being a bit more comfy. Whatever you decide, remember that passing your test is a very small step on a lifelong biking journey, take lots of small steps, rather than giant leaps, to begin with and you will have a more enjoyable and probably safer biking career

Was running EBC HH pads in standard R1 5VY calipers gripping standard discs, which were a slight improvement over the OE pads. THEN a Friend got me to try some TRW LUCAS (German spec) front pads, and once bedded, THEY REALLY MAKE A DIFFERENCE!! Any of you out there want some grippy stuff, then I suggest you try these, you will be ammased at how good they are. (not tried the back ones, Coz standard pads will lock it anyway) They retail for about £23 a caliper, so not too expensive either. (not tried the back ones, Coz standard pads will lock it anyway)

The Yamaha dealer that did my first service (George White), used Castrol power 1. , I have used it ever since with no problems at all.