R1evad

I`m back, not that anyone would remember from 2008. just been on to update the profile and guess what, I can be in one of 100`s of different countries, some as obscure as the vatican city, including Wales and Scotland, which is all good, BUT..................... WHERE IS ENGAND???????? And before any one says we can use United Kingdom, so could the Scots and the Welsh. What`s good for the goose an all that. Cheers DR.

This has probably been done to death on here, but I am pulling my hair out. I have a 2008 XT125X with OIL insp warning up on the dash. It is all running fine with new oil and a recent strip and clean of pretty much everything, and is now ready to put back on the road. how do I clear the message. there are NO "mode" or "set" buttons to push or hold, there is no"blue button" as have been mentioned in the past. Please Help! Thanks in advance. DR.

0.78p per year for parking doesn`t sound too bad (15/7d to you), but the principle is more valuable! sounds like an "I`ll see you in court" job to me. It will be a right bun fight when two council departments have to stand up and give evidence against each other, not to mention the front page story in the local paper. Go for it, you know it makes sense.

Bych 91, chech your car licence for provisional entitlement, new car licences do not automatically have motorcycle provisional entitlement, and those that do sometimes "loose" it when you pass the car test. read your paper counterpart carefully. I know some FULL bike licence holders that have recently passed a car test, only to find their full A licence records have been overwritten by the car pass.

"They all do that sir...." Only try little dan¬idea if you like plane spotting, coz if you like doing 45 in first you will definitely be monowheeling with that gearing. (mind you most R1s with standard gearing are good for 90+ in first) Mind you he may well be right about the cush drive. Stick her up on a paddock stand and with the bike in first rock yhe back wheel sharply to and fro and see how much slack there is in the rear chain carrier. If you can detect ANY movement between carrier and rear wheel hub, you need new cush rubbers. also see if there is any slack or clonking at the gear box end. You may have worn splines on the front sprocket or (worse) the output shaft itsef. or a loose sprocket retaining bolt. these show up more in the lower gears as the transition between gears is usually larger (more of a jump) than in the closer ratio higher gears. Also you tend to be on and of the gas round town in the lower gears than "on it" in the higher ones on the open road. If everything checks out ok, you have probably just got a clunky one. if it don`t jump out of gear and your big toe can take the jolt, get on and enjoy it

OOPs, although they host BSB and other bike racing here, it seems all the training and stuff is CAR and KART based...........Sorry you will be needing to try http://search.bikers-engine.com/directory/...ls/Road_Racing/

your nearest national level race track is likely THRUXTON, just off the A303 near Baisingstoke. Contact the circuit direct, they will be able to tell you who is based there. ThruxtonRacing.co.uk

So the moral of the story is, move to Lancashire, and take up boxing...........Was going to continue, but getting too political as it is!

BEFORE YOU TRY AND FIND THE LEAK, MAKE SURE YOUR OIL IS UP TO THE MARK If it has been leaking a while you may be too low! You need to thoroughly clean the whole engine, with the faring off, then run it up and get it hot. (if you use spray brake cleaner it will degrease the casings and show the source as a greasy patch) we do this all the time in the hydraulics industry and it works a treat. If left boot getting wet, then might try looking seriously at the gear lever shaft where it comes out through the casing. or even the engine oil filter. keep cleaning and looking, you will find it eventually. BE CAREFUL ITS NOT GETTING ON YOUR BACK TYRE!! It is NOT the best way to learn how to do burnouts!!

So long as you keep it regulated and only use the approved oil they can extend chain and sprocket life no end. You need to be doing a fair bit of mileage to make them earn their keep though, and cleaning the excess oil of your boots, body work back wheel and most importantly back tyre, but, as they say, no pain, no gain!

Oh, I just ended up with the younger sister!! and no big family to buy Christmas presents for :lol:

have you thought about doing it just in black and adding your white red, whatever in signwriting vinyl? if you get fed up with it, you can change the whole look of a bike in a weekend, with some number boards and sponsers graphics etc, or go for an oem replica kit from another contry, so it looks factory, but not run of the mill. Go carefull and your paint and laquer will last ages, but you can vary the look to suit your current whim.

buy the bike from DK, put £1000 in the bank for three years. if you have had no problems with it, you are one lucky sob with over a grand in the bank as a deposit on your next new bike! If you do have anything go wrong that the seller cannot (or will not) sort, you have a sinking fund. Parallels traditionally have lower 2nd hand resale values than officially imported bikes, but the longer you keep em the less impact it has, and by the time they are well used it has little if any effect on prices as condition and history are more an issue than how much it cost when new. ( or where it came from).

sounds like you got on ok with the last rucksack, so why not just get another one? Unless you got a proper little rack on your bike, fixing stuff to the pillion can be restrictive when riding and you have the pain of securing and unstrapping etc each time you park up.

Oakley MCC is doing a club run at a leasurely pace to Hunstanton on Saturday 6/9. (meeting near BEDFORD. Was planning on meeting the rest of the crew up there but wanting to get a bit more "progressive" . anyone about for a day at the seaside and a nice fish dinner?? Will fix a meet and have a blast out if your up for it.

Who did you pay then Goff? or was it a postal thing? Swy I like to use plastic for larger purchases, you can always trace payments and get the card co to sort it. or paypal etc if its online. i have done loads of deals both buying and selling and never once come a cropper, even with faulty goods issues. (have done a bit in postage, but never the actual article cost. I hope you got it all sorted in the end.

The other thing to consider, is what bike are you going to take your test on. For direct access you will need a bike bigger than the 125 you mention. You need to be on a bike of at least 46.6 bhp (35kw) so you are looking at about 500cc or so. If you do a few lessons on a bike that big (you can ride above 125cc if accompanied by an instructor) you may be able to borrow (hire) it failing that you gonna have to go and buy one.

"not for road use" means an MOT fail next time, unless you put on a road legal one for the test.

Some bikes with arings suffer more than others and what you describe is not uncommon once you have been out for a while. (the fans on my R1 kick in quite regularly round town, but my `blade hardly ever does.) Your fans are kicking in at the correct point (about 100c) If everything is working ok, it is probably nothing to get unduly worried about, however if you want to be sure, treat the bike to a thorough service and flush the cooling system and recharge with a 50% mix of good quality antifreeze / summer coolant. Change the oil and filter aswell, as old sludgy oil will not be helping matters. If the temperature drops to a normal 80c ish when you are on a run, and you are not loosing any fluids along he way, you havn`t got much to worry about, (I dont think).

Stevenage is known locally as the "NIDGE" Raceways is in Church Lane in the old town. Its the road running parallel with the high street, behind the shops on the same side as the Cromwell hotel. See you down ther one day, no doubt.

The preload on front and rear springs is only designed to set the bikes ride height and load capacity for a given bike / rider combination. It only has the function of adjusting the static sag, ie the amount of movement taken up from fully extended to loaded, the way you will ride it. ( for a better explanation go to the Ohlins link. It doesnt matter what make your suspention is, the principles are the same) http://www.ohlins.com/Motorcycle/Settingup...59/Default.aspx Once you have the preload adjusted for your weight. (most manufacturers std settings are not too far off) It is the DAMPING that makes the diference to the way the bike handles on the road / track. In general you use softer (less damped) settings on the road, so all the bumps and dips are soaked up without being too harsh a ride, and stiffer settings for the (sometimes) smoother tracks, which tend to be a bit more consistent, more of the time. The only time you should need to adjust the preload (usually on the rear shock) is when you carry a pillion or luggage. The PRELOAD DOES NOT ADJUST THE STIFFNESS OF THE SPRING, just how much of it you have used up prior to compressing it when you actually ride. Front springs should always be set to the same setting as each other, so they compress and rebound in unison. As cov_al says,The only way to change the STIFFNESS of your springs is to replace them with after-market ones (or new standard ones if you have a really high mileage bike and they have become soggy) To find out if yours are worn, take them out and measure the length. compare this with the free length quoted for new ones.

Welcome to Biking, the site and the "NIDGE" Go Down the Old town and talk to the lady co owner of RACEWAYS MOTORCYCLES. Caz will show you the ropes and point you in the right direction. AND she can ride a horse http://www.ringjunkies.co.uk/

So are you now running TWO sets at the rear? one pair in the tail lamp and one pair in as free standing units? Try disconnecting the TAIL lamp pair and see what happens. It sound like an earthing problem. the only thing linking the indicator circuit with the tail/side lights is the common earth in the tail lamp unit, so diconecting the built in flashers should eliminate it. If the others all work ok without the tail lamp ones, you could try a diode in the earth line of the tail lamp to stop any back feeding that might be going on. Also check ALL of your earth connections on the lights and indicators. you only need one "dry" connection to screw up all sorts. Use a smear of petrolium jelly on your connectors and earth points.

Check with the tyre manufacturers web site for the recommended fitment and pressures for your bike. A mate of mine is running a set of BT021`s on his Kwack ER6, and reckons they are FAR better than the original BT020`s it came with. He does all weather commuted and weekend blasting, so I believe him to be a fair judge.

I told the guy behind the bar you were payin`, but he wasn`t impressed Nice bike though