XSwheels

When I picked up my XS360 project it had 95psi in the left cylinder. I poured one ounce of ATF/acetone concoction into the cylinder twice over 2 days. I ran the engine a few seconds and after it cooled had 115 psi. I expect that will improve later on when I can run the engine more.

I think it's funny how small the bidding is between those three bidders. Three cheapskate bidders and they are only up to 3.50 for two bikes. Imagine one turning to the other and saying "yeah I'll pay 3 Euro's but no way would I go to 3.50 for two bikes."

I am anxious to install the new regulator and see if this solves my no charge condition, but I currently also have my clutch apart and am waiting for parts to arrive. I won't know how this new regulator works until I button the motor back up again. I think I'll go paint my battery box, I could use the serenity.

Thanks for posting those figures Drewpy, they were the same as the other manual. My original regulator failed all the tests. 0 ohms black to reg. base instead of the recommended 10.5 ohms. 0 ohms brown to green wire instead of the recommended 140 ohms. I bought a NOS replacement regulator and guess what, the values are the same as my old one. This is why I was looking for a second opinion on the resistance values. One thing I don't understand is why there should be 10.5 ohms resistance between the black ground wire and the regulator base plate. If you break this part of the regulator down into simple terms, what you have is a piece of steel with a 6" wire attached. Common sense would say the resistance should be 0, (which both of mine are), why is the recommended value 10.5 ohms?

I have downloaded the XS360 manual on this site and have found a couple of mistakes in it, and now I have some doubts on another issue. Does anyone have a factory manual so I can compare some figures. What I need to know are the resistance test figures for the voltage regulator. I have tested the alternator and field coil, plus the rectifier using the downloaded manual resistance checks, and everything tests proper and makes sense. I just want a second opinion on the voltage regulator. BTW Drewpy thanks again for posting that manual, what brand name is it?

Are you running a fork mounted fairing or windshield? Sometimes these can effect slow speed handling.

Hello TamzSR125 and welcome to the forum.

If there is oil in your air box it is likely coming from the breather tube. Excess crankcase pressure will force oil into the breather tube for relief. If it is milky that means water has mixed with the oil. The water could have already been in the air box. Worn rings will add increased crankcase pressure. Is your bike liquid cooled?

Well that's a better idea. Anyone else?

No. That is too obvious. I'm looking for some inventive thinking here.

I have a pair of mufflers that have rusted badly. Everything chrome plated on the bike will be painted dull black. Now I know the easy answer is to throw the mufflers away, but I just want to try and save them for now. I don't weld, so that option is out. I have not had success with muffler cement in the past, and I am thinking of using a thin metal as a patch and covering the area with JB Weld. What other ideas can I try? Rusty Silencers

Actually what you have is likely THIS

What you have sort of depends on where you live. If you are from Canada, what you have is not a motorcycle at all, but an outboard motor. Yamaha F6

What is with these idiots on ebay who think they can dismantle a UJM, then list every part and not have the sense to throw away the junk? They also don't list the stuff as a regular auction, but sell it in their ebay stores as a buy it now for rip off prices. I just saw a 31 year old cam seal up for grabs. He said it looked like new. It was out of round and probably hard as a rock. Or how about a 32 year old air filter with 60% of the filter material missing and the rest of it so ancient it crumbles to dust when you touch it. The same crackpot also listed an old wiring harness with corrosion on the connectors that he described as perfect except for the section that was cut off. I know there are many of those folks that PT Barnum spoke of, but even they wouldn't buy some of this junk.

Nice bike. Now get it off the deck and go for a ride.

If you live in the US I would think you have a Canadian bike.

I just picked up a 77 XS360 as well. It was imported into North America for only two years until it morphed into a 400 until 1983. It shares some parts with the XS500 and the odd part from other XS models as well. Mine is a bit rough with no spark and needs everything looked after. I don't know if the XS360 has any known particular problems, maybe others with more XS knowledge can help here. Like xtonyx said, they are pretty basic bikes.

If you hook it up to a battery tender/maintainer in the off season, and occasionally during the riding season you should get at least five years out of your battery.