Silkk

true, just make sure you get new exhaust gaskets before fitting. I would get 6 (2 spare) and be careful with the bolts from the manifold, as they become weak over time. if they wont budge, heat them up with a plumbers torch, then put cooling spray on them to break the seal. But be careful as you dont want to crack the block near the ports. Will want to see pickies when its all fitted though

Anyone know if I could retro fit the fairing from a Thunderace 1000 onto my FZR without too much messing with the mounts? Anyone done this sort of conversion or any other ideas?

slow riding should be ok for a suicide shift, not like you can boot it through the lower gears with it. Just depends if she has the bottle to be reaching over with her throttle hand, and has the balance to keep it up while doing it.

As i said, the best tester is just a normal tail light bulb, with wires taped to the terminals. If it lights up, there is a live feed

Courtesy of another forum I am on: Edit DDT: Please do not post links to places on the interweb that break copyright laws LINKY

Depending whereabouts in the UK, you could try Yorkshire Metal Finishers in Leeds. Its a friends company and I normally get all my metal tubes/plates done there. They also do custom fabrication and powder/electro coatings etc. http://yorkshire-metalfinishers.co.uk/ if you get stuck, ask for James

It will be getting replaced as the spacing between the light and the top fairing looks horrible and full of gaps when up close. Biggest pain is that almost all of the wiring is no longer "original" and it can't now take an OEM fitting due to the mods on the plastics for the track ..... Guess I need to put a little more thought into what I am actually going to do with this now its running ($$$ limitations apply)

Going to hazard a guess at either a collapsed ignition barrel, or wire somewhere behind the barrel leading to the main harness that is keeping a live feed going. All you can do is break out the ole "2 wires taped to a bulb" and test the wiring from the back of the ignition working your way back through the harness. If you disconnect your aftermarket kill switch, then check for live feeds while the key is in the "off" position. Not a quick fix, and a time consuming job. If you haven't got the haynes manual for your bike, you can find a good list of Diagram images here: Edit DDT: Please do not post links to places on the interweb that break copyright laws LINKY

Looking good so far. Are you sticking with the foot gear or putting a suicide shift on it? As would look awesome with a custom shifter

Both front and back are off a Chinese bike. The rear actually has 2 of the push to fit park lights you normally put on the front, working as my brake lights. Think i I will regret trying to get new plastics as I will need to replace both lights etc

My CBR was £30 about 6 years ago now, so prices may have gone up. But have a quick check on google for Car Reupholsters, they will normally do a bike seat too

This last year seems to have been a big thing for Insurance companies to turn all anal retentive.... I took out a policy with Carol Nash, but they sent me the docs with the wrong start date. So, rang them up, and apparently to "Change" the start date, they had to cancel my policy (for which they already took a deposit). Transferred me to their sales team who then setup a "new" policy as they couldn't just amend a date.... As these are pay monthly, they will then hit your "Credit Report" as finance inqueries, so if you go for finance on anything, these policies will be shown. So my advice, if they are getting a finance quote for them insuring you and your payment reschedule, speak to their customer services and request they remove the credit search from your Credit History. If they refuse or tell you they can't, then complain to the Ombudsman, as they are adversley effecting your credit rating. So do the likes of "comparethemarket etc, as they leave trails on your Credit Report too. **latest update** I am still waiting for the original deposit refund a week later

Another cheaper option, would be to get your original seat re-upholstered. I have seen quite a few stalls like that at Bike Rallies etc, think the last one I got done was my CBR's at BikeFest at Donnington

A little late in the day as thread ended quite a while ago, but to help with the stinging eyes from hayfever (as normally your eyes are alot more itchy after riding with the visor up, as the pollen is rammed directly into your eyes with the wind), try wearing sports sunglasses with a slight yellowy/brown tint. I wear Oakley iridium lenses, and find the fit helps to keep the pollen from out of my eyes. Also another weird observation, I suffer more when I have a 100% none tinted visor, than I do when I wear my black tint.

If you have bought it, can you not line it up to your bike and see? as long as the header mounts fit and the angle of the downpipe doesnt graze your frame etc, then I cant see it being a problem... as without knowing exact dimensions of the one your bought, then its a little tough. Be aware though, even or OEM parts, you need to put a certain amount of force into fitting new header pipes as for some reason, they are always a few mm out.

The pants for my 2 piece has built in padding, so its all good.... maybe a cheaper alternative?

I have seen a guy paralysed from the waist down, still ride a bike. had custom landing gear and used an air shifter for the gears. Was pretty awesome. Point being, ANY body can ride a bike as long as they can maintain balance etc. So it should be fairly acceptable if someone with a badge uses the disabled spots. ALTHOUGH.... you could do like this guy did

Too warm by far. Had to get the missus to help me out of my leathers last night. Even using talc on the trousers, they still stuck to my calves......

Nayruf has it about right with the method for checking chains. I personally run a stiff suspension setup, so only really allow for 1" play on the chain, and stick to "O"ring chains with rivet links. I'm not a fan of the split links. Unfortunately it means to save splitting the chain, whenever I want it off, I need to remove the rear wheel spindle and unbolt the brake calipers, to roll the wheel forward and out through the bottom of the swing arm. For the YBR though, it is even easier, as the engines dont put as much stress on the chain as the bigger bikes, unless your down shifting with no clutch and engine brakes like you do in a car. That being said, I would always recommend changing the sprocket at the same time as your chain, and finding your own personal preference as to the amount of play on the lower half of the chain. If the teeth are worn on your sprocket, replace it. If your chain is at max adjustment, replace it. There again I'm a cheap skate as the cost of my chain/spockets are triple figures

If its pulling in 1st, then it sounds like the push rod isn't disengaging the clutch when fully pulled in. This is quite common on a bike that is stood for a period of time. I would personally check your clutch push rod meets correctly and the bearing hasn't worn down? as over time the spherical bearing becomes elliptical. Also looking at how worn your clutch basket was, I would also check the actuator arm assembly, to make sure that hasn't developed an indent where it sits on your push rod. If I remember rightly the DT has a 2 piece push rod.

That would be awesome thanks. Currently I'm just looking for a price as its not really detrimental, and the funds have run a little dry after the rebuild

Started a new thread in Projects ..... Still need headers, ignition, stanchions and plastics though haha. As for colour scheme, it should now make sense with the side panels on only the blue back is not the original, as I have rebuilt the rear subframe as it was cut down for the track.

So after 5 years of being in bits and strewn across my garage floor, and the rolling chassis stood under a tarp in the garden, my genesis is back on the road. Still need a new exhaust, front stachions and plastics. But so far, she is looking and sounding good. And now all ready to rock

Nice, i know who to call then haha

After rebuilding my Genesis, I am now at the point where I am ready to start making her look pretty. Although the FZR600 is/was a fairly common bike, im seeing fewer and fewer parts for them, and lately simple things like a "clutch return spring" I had to get from a main dealership. So my next question is this really...... should I be looking to get a new full set of plastics, or just get the old ones repaired..... and where the HELL can I get a replacement set of pipes where they have the balancer's at the back of the Header down pipes? Side note, I am getting pretty annoyed with all the damn shops that keep asking me if its an EXUC...... or then telling me the engine serial I give them doesnt exist as either a UK or even a Grey Import ..... when im looking at the engine... and see the serial..... and yeah, it looks pretty real to me Any suggestions as to where to get parts, apart from Fleabay, would be appreciated.