rzresurection

I've seen the ones that they use heat and air to pop out the dents in pipes. They work pretty good. I think that it would work for a tank. I'd have to come up with a way to seal the fill spout well enough to hold air. I'm not going to add any heat to my tank at this point only because I've already coated the inside of the tank with POR15 and don't want to destroy the new coating.

I don't know how hard that would be to do. I was really just going to fill them with bondo and be done with it.

My tank is more or less stripped completely now. Just a little final clean up to be done. Got my windscreen today. Just trying to mock it up. It was supposed to be a low-profile screen, but it didn't look that way. I'll make it work.

Not a lot work happening with my bike lately. I'm onto stripping my tank. Here's a shot of the underside. Stripped the head too. Here's what the engine will look like.

Sorry man, haven't been around much lately, so I haven't been reading or posting. Working on resumes and stuff. Awesome work on the bike man, it's turned out exceptional. Best part - you rebuilt it with your own hands. Don't EVER sell it. You will absolutely regret it. You should be nothing less than completely satisfied with your efforts. WELL DONE!!

Doesn't look to be enough rake and trail. How do you disaster? Lowspeedwobble.

Lmfao! Sad, but true.

Here's a better one

Don't get me wrong Shaun. If you go for a whole front end swap, it's relatively easy - mechanically. My point was just to be aware that you may alter the bike's geometry in a negative way. I'd hate to see it become unstable at some point.

Ok, I get what you're saying. I can do the layout dye and see how the contact surfaces are mating. I agree now is the time to do it since I have my cases split. I'm just not sure about spending the money on that right now. If I got a job in the next couple of weeks, I'd consider getting it done. I think it'd be a few bucks. I found a pic for reference.

Wish we didn't require plates )

WOW!! Open up those purse strings. That is going to be a lot of work and money. Don't say 'it will be a budget build' - no such thing. You'll have lots of support! I'm looking forward to your build.

The squishing of the o-ring provides the seal. Just have to make sure that the o-ring stays in the groove or you'll damage the o-ring

What's up with the big K on your leathers? It's just not working for me with that RZ. Lol I have the same fairing on my bike. Installed it back in '88. Wow, we should have been buddies back then.

Finished a more robust version of my new rear, indicator mount. Cleaned up all the threaded holes on my cases. Cases are both painted now. I'm just sanding/polishing my barrels. Still too effin cold to work in the garage.

You're gonna have to elaborate on this one for me.

That was my first thought when looking at the clearance problem. I didn't want to go thru cutting and welding if there was a less labour intensive route. I'm still not 100% sure what I did was the best solution. I will find out when the bike gets ridden and no stress cracks occur.

Here's a mod that I did earlier on. I cut down the points on the shift star to make shifting easier. The pic will give you a comparison.

Purdy ain't they.

Virtually anything could be fitted onto your bike. If you make a radical change, then your bike will handle radically different - makes sense. If you can get the forks you want, to fit in your current triples (yokes) that would be ideal. The next option would be to do a complete front end swap. Gotta make sure the front end you pick works with your current back end. i.e. Front tire isn't bigger than rear. Measurements to pay attention to: 1) stem length - not long enough = bad. Too long - you might need spacers made up to take up the gap. 2) Fork offset. Google it if not clear on it. It will change your effective rake and trail - key geometry items. Ideally it would be the same as original. Read up on how offset will change your rake/trail 3) fork travel - should be close to original. Doing a front end swap, you will need to find the proper sized tapered roller bearings that will fit your steering head and stem dia's. Honestly, this is a critical modification, but there is no clear 'do this... and it will work well' (unless someone else has done the exact mod - and you like the results). A lot of factors come into play which alter the geometry. You'll have to do a lot of searching (or requesting from others) for fork specific info. This will give you an idea on how a specific setup might act. I've done such a mod, but don't know the end result as my bike doesn't run yet. I do know that I have increased the trail and the wheelbase - therefore I expect my bike to steer slower than before. I can move my forks up in the yokes to decrease my trail. A lot of testing will be needed this season.

Ok, I've bookmarked this thread. I plan on doing an air cooled RD at some point, so I'm really interested in this thread. Ave at er !

Got some engine enamel on my bottom case half today. I should get my new shift drum and seals in this week. The tranny should go back together by next week.

You don't down load the picture from photobucket so much as you copy the IMG info from the picture, then paste that link into your post.

Think of it as you had the chance to get the big stuff done to your bike while you had your garage handy.

The whole look of the bike works - at least for me. That's what the bikes looked like before the faired bikes came in ('85 for the RZ). There was a transition where they had a small 1/4 fairing up top and a little scoop at the bottom.