dt502001

Use the caculator it will show the amount of links needed,I doubt you would have any trouble fitting a 16 or even a 17 with the chain length unless your wheel is pushed all the way foward. with the stock 114 links your wheel should be about half way in the adjustment of the swing arm if it is then you can run a 17.

Here you can play with gearing http://www.gearingcommander.com/ and find something that will suite.When you change the wheel size smaller ,as you have, you actualy geared the bike up( read slower,torquier) if you used the same sprocket.You should have changed the rear sprocket to suite the 17" wheel. Changin the front is the easiest and cheapest,normaly no changes need to be made the the chain lenght.So if you want to change it back for the fun gearing you have now ,you can in minutes

Hi Tooslow I think what you will find is that the air gap is varriable depending on rider weight,it is on my wr .Why not just measure what's in there now for a air gap and use that for a refrence.You can always suck some out or add more if you don't like the way it works.

Looks like a chopper that someone put the drag bars on ,and with a 59 degree head angle bet it handels like one,can't belive lotus let the company use thier name.

Lost,,pull you questions together in one post. No need for it to idle that high,the guy who wrote that in the hayens was high. You never answered this question.....Are you holding the start button in until it starts or just pressing and releasing? You have family members who could help you with this if you were to ask them,thoe it sounds like you still dont even know how to start your bike.As the cold comes the bike will start different.

I dont do photos of how to do things,but if you get 2 pieces of 90 degree angle iron ( bed frames ) and check them for trueness.( easy to do by streching a piece of string over it ) Longer then your bike wheel to past the front wheel Then with a couple of clamps you can make the whole bike straight,,, loosen the triple clamps and the rear wheel,,set that all 100% then if the motor is still out then move it, Before you try to adjust your chain or as your adjusting it Not like you cant to make the motor aling with the rest,, the bolt holes have lots of adjustment and a few shims and BANG your bike is better than most others that look the same.Handels better than Joe Blows. Race secrets for free.

What I was saying is if you haven't checked your swing arm bushing wear, cush drive or sprocket then you might as well go by the marks on the swing arm and a tapemeasure. All the little other things add up to much more in chain deflection under actual use. The Idea is good but still leaves alot to the person using it and how they inturpute it. Drewps HM is as good as any store bought EDIT would you not rather align the whole bike and not just the rear of the bike ? Also if the motor is not in straight then it will set everything off. Yes it takes longer but if you just need to tighten up the chain then why bother with the lazer? The front triple clamps also come out of alingment over time and should be set back to make the bike track straight. It is worth it to me to take the time every 3rd or so adjustment of the chain to me.

That would be awsome at the bass derby's you would get to your fave hole first LOL,makes my boat look like a tug boat speed wise.

R2d2 can you please confirm my alignment" LOL Neat idea but if the cush drive is worn or the sprocket is bent, then what happens when you rotate the wheel?

Are you holding the button or just pressing it and releasing it?

Ballance shafts make motors run longer, smother ,but, steal HP,ballanceing the motor parts on a 180 crank can run just as smoooth and make more HP per = cc. a part that has been removed from many a performance machine originaly equipted with one Seems you getting on quickly UNK

You may have just answered your problems,if your battery is weak then cold starts will be poor. You should be able to crank the motor over for 1 min without the battery droping,to a point it cant turn the motor ...is the case the battery falls off quickly?

Strip tease motor porn . Ice blasting does wonders to making parts look new.

Long time comming ,you are going to have a perma smile everytime you ride it. I suggest crazy glueing you lip's together for the first rides,or a breath guard to keep from eating so many bugs. Now you have ridden it you bank account will be empty for a while,everything you didn't care about will get attention and steal your cash. Enjoy it and remember to check the valves

By yz and wr if you mean the 4t's more or less the same engine wr more bottom end ,bit heavier and has lighting.,ours have no key or speedo on the older ones,bout 09 they added that crap and a steel tank. And offered the SM's. The 4t's are reliable IF YOU DO THE SERVICE.lol and that is why you can pick up lots of used bikes cheap,someone finds out it is going to cost them a grand to do the big service and shit's themself. Buying the bike is the cheap part.tires and chains sprockets,head/base gaskets, rings ,valves springs.That is the shit that will cost you the most.

I couldn't belive it either they are just now making it ileagle to eat dead people,and these 2 have been caught before that is the most F'd up shit I have ever heard,Nothing funny about that, that country is totaly screwed up 7 year sentences and they let them out..Lock up anyone caught doing that with a bag of curry and no food and let them eat eachother I'm sure it wont take long before the problem is solved.Even that is wrong thinking but I am shocked that was some disturbing news to think a counrty is that far behind in civil behaviour.

Mac as you have 3 of these bikes now it is time to learn how to get the eng apart and back together,it's not like you need the bike running. The few tools needed flywheel puller 20 bucks,torque wrench is a must have tool for all your bikes so BUY ONE,for setting the timming you can go with a dial indicator or a piston indicator,I would suggest buying a dial indacator you can use it for many more things,checking rotors is a good one. The money you will have waisted putting in new parts to only have it blow up again will cost more than the tools to do it right.The dt 175 has to be one of the easiest motors to rebuild.The knowlage you learn doing it will save you money in the future.And you have all the help you could ask for Paul AKA air head knows everything you could ever possibly need to ask about. So what if it takes you a month or 2 to get it appart and back together,as for it not shifting or the clutch not working these are not hard to check befor the motor goes back in and realy it's almost impossible to get it wrong and back together the parts only fit 1 way.If you realy take your time disassembling it taking note of each piece then the reassembly will go rather smoothly.The only part that is difficult is holding the tranny pieces as you slip them into the cases.But as you dont need to even pull them out of the left half of case you could leave it in place and clean up the case and then just put it back together with new crank seals ect. parts wise it wont cost much more.And you wont chance blowing it up because of one small piece of piston you dont get out. This mechanic who said it will be fine I would not trust,to do anywork,any good mechanic would say not to do it that way as you have no way of knowing if you got it all out.Each and everyone here has said that! why because we know splitting the case is the only way to do it RIGHT.If anything is left behind and you kill the crank then you out another 600 bucks or more. So ask yourself is it realy worth chancing it,or is it time to get serious and learn something new.

The wr is a blast but I wouldn't realy suggest one for the street the maitence is huge,same with the 400 426 450's,valves need to be checked every 600 miles replaced every 1-2k miles valve springs at the same time.The parts are strong but they strech and springs warp,the local yam dealer who supports a race team ,Gord the engine guy and I were talking and he had noticed that the bikes were streching valves after as little as 10 hrs.so they are doing complete rebuilds at 8 hrs now.They haven't lost a valve,but, I know people who have and it runs into the thousands when you do. Most of my riding is in the woods so not reving the crap out of my bike all the time but it gets beat on well and I am checking the valves after every ride and using the trip meter as my rebuild schedual.it only goes to 999kms and then the head gets pulled and the valves replaced.It is by far the most expencive bike to run I have ever owned,all the 4t dirt bikes are like this thoe and lots of guys are switching back to 2t's.,it's so much cheaper to slap a new piston in and clean the power valve.But the tractor like torque is addictive and the curve of torque is so easy to ride. It realy depends on what your going to do with the bike a 250 is just as capable as the 450's but in the woods the 250 rules IMO,on a sand track the 450 rules no argument. Your bike has turned out nice,enjoy it and see if you cant get some rides in on a few 4t's before you decide thats what you want for sure because they will lighten your wallet considerably over the 2t's.The wr 230 2t that you can get your side would be my choice,here the gas gas 300 is looking tempting.As is the yz 250 2t.

Try starting the bike with choke and let it run with the choke until the revs start to pick up on thier own.This sould only take 1 minute or so dont give any throttle untill then.Once the revs pick up give it a bit of throttle and turn the choke of gradualy. The other thing you can do is to turn the idle up to about 1200 with the bike warmed up,to do this you just need to turn the thumb screw on the side of the carb clock wise.As Airhead said it could just be the idle is set too low or the pilot needs richining for the colder weather. Try this and report back,it's possible you have a small air leak cold but we can cover that later.

Very good point Katie we have fuel(if you want to call it that) as low as 87 with 10-15% eth and my bikes will run on it start fine but I can feel the difference in power.Most station's only have 91 as thier top fuel,odd that it would make that much of a difference on the starting. I will have to find out if ther is some sort of different rating between your gas and ours.I realy can't see how ,as octain rating is the ability to resist knocking/pinging nothing to do with how well it burns or how much power you get from it. Infact the higher the octain rating the harder it is to get it to burn.Race fuels are a different story. And avation fuels have had eth in them for decades to keep the fuel from freezing.Back in the 70's everyone put methonal in the tank here to keep the carb and fuel lines from freezing up in the winter. Glad you got it running right and your happy Kevin,I would think if it wasn't solved you would have said something by now,more likely that what Katie said is true,, it's the station over the fuel being the problem.

By cuts out do you mean it just stalls and then you can restart it? I see you said 1/4 choke and then off immeaditaly after starting,no bike will run cold well you have to give it a few minutes to warm up before turning the choke off fully. How many bikes have you owned?

Ok broken english is not going to help,I am no scollar,but you need to be a bit more helpfull to yourself. Slow down and type it out There are many adjustments on the carb,externaly 2.... 1 the idle and 2 the mix for low throttle -pilot adjustment,we are all trying to help so post a picture of the carb and we can point you in the right direction

If you had a R1 and can settle for a xs 250 then giver shit and do it,one mans dream should never be crushed ,,money dies with you as far as I care. Spend it while you can. One thing for sure is that many a xs 250 will still be running around when most r1's +- 15yr's old are long dead,not from poor build quality, but, they do tend to kill people and themself's,just plain hard to not beat the crap out of a r1 and lots of people buy them who shouldn't. Law of averages.

So it will be a 2035 callender by the time you sort it out then eh

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