Preload

Nice buy DT. You cant lose on that really. However if you take time doing it the parts will come along at the right price. As said its easier and cheaper to make a 350. Fitting a 400 motor can be a costly option and it will never be worth as much as matching numbers bike.

Right I have managed too find a pair of original 3CV's a bit marked but no cracks.

A well set up FJ1200 should be retuning 45+ in touring mode even with a pillion. Managed to get 50+mpg out of a friends 3CV with a stage 1 Dyno jet kit years ago also the valves can really effect fuelling.

As said most people just do it and some deliberately do it. The difference is when motorway cruising just a slight lean does it however, when lane carving this is when you use counter steering the most. Also the bike setup effects how well C/S works ie. a sport bike will want to drop in to a bend so less effort is needed on the other hand if you C/S a cruiser it will drag its foot boards to quickly so a combination of C/S and leaning helps.

I may have one I'll have a look see.

I thought DEP as well.

Have you checked the fuse?

The carb probably hasnt been tampered with so take note of the setting as they are now as dads dont tend to move stuff. The carb probably will need cleaning out to make it work correctly.

The popping is caused by air getting into the cans are they strait through? Altering the the air screw wont make a lot of difference, the screw its self, its probably Electrolysis and Oxidation you could try heat but only after the fuel has been removed. The resort would be machining it out but that will depend on how good a engineer you are.

You can buy a shock wrap from good bike parts suppliers it Velcros on around the spring but it will not help with the eyes seizing the only way to stop this is to remove the bolts once a year a grease them. If this was a common design problem the VOSA boys would well aware of it and Yamaha would have had there wrist slapped. Hagon shocks have been known to snap a the eyes as well but just apparently because there weak. PS. The FJ top shock bolt can seize due to low/no grease but I have never heard of one snapping. PPS. the FJR liankage can seized and collapse this is due to poor maintenance and the VOSA boys vindicated Yamaha as someone tried to sue them and lost.

Here's one from Spain 2000 Fully Loaded. and another. Ready for Brands Hatch.

I've always fancied one of those nice. Oh yeah welcome.

Munch Mammoth 2000 Just because it was made.

Preload came about from when I used to fettle race bikes but mainly the Suspension. Other people know me as Woody named by my mates (this was taken on here) and the reason for Woody as every time I fell off I hit a tree. The last time 3 month in hospital.

I like that, have you got one with a tighter shot of the bike..

If they are cable forget what I said it wont work. You could put a 2-3mm spacer inbetween the lever and the lever bracket which would bring it closer to the bars.

If the cops do there job it will be a good thing but what happens if you haven't got the money to pay? do there take the vehicle off you? There are other rules as well which will effect bikers more than most ie. giving way at junctions you have to slowdown even if you can see there are no vehicles coming for miles, this will piss off the RosPa/ IAM boys as keeping up your average speed is paramount, also strait lining roundabouts (lane Discipline) which is also an on the spot 3 point £100 fine.

If they arnt adjustable already! What you could do is grind the heal off the lever until the main part is closer to the bars. NB. The heal is the bit that pushes on the m/cylinder piston.

It sounds like you may have 3XW 125ps/bhp model so 4 time the power. These didnt have anti-dive on the forks or any preload, they had a stiffer frame with anti-vib engine mounts and the swingarm is Steel as the earlier models were Aluminium but can be fitted to the 3XW. If you whack open the throttle the bike go forward at fair rate of knots generally ripping up the tarmac as for popping the front wheel it can be done but is tough to do and you wont do it off the throttle.

Well if you are doing a restoration the forks would have to be the same model, you could get the tubes re-ground or check with Yamaha as they still maybe available with the seals. If you mean repair/fix up to get it back on the road you may need the yokes as well so you know all the spacings are correct.

Have you set the damping too high as the shock maybe returning to slowly.

If you have a cracked or leaking collector box it will effect the carbs (CV) as the back pressure will be different but once this is fixed the carbs should work correctly again without any jetting.

I had a FJ1200 3CV for almost 10 years and would probably still own it if I hadnt killed it. Now apart from the extra power which there is more than enough the steering is very heavy as old style geometry. Most have been modded so getting standard one is getting rare. Problems: Clutch Slave cylinder can fail. The later calipers are prone to seize. The early 12's had vented disc's and can warp or crack. Number 1 valve can be tick but quite normal but can be got rid of. Early models had anti-dive but didnt work that well. Maintenance: Is fairly easy but you'll need a shim tool and carb balancers Thats all I can think of at the moment.

Happy Bithday Merv looks like I'm 2 days older..