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NO!!! You don't have to go right up against the box just follow the wires until you find some where that you can trim the outer off, DON'T cut the wire just remove enough to get your cable connected to then drop a dollop of solder on to it and then tape over (with good quality) tape and "Robert's your father's brother". Will not let water in usually cos it's covered by the seat and tape should be enough to make it water tight anyway. It's a matter of being cautious, you could look at the end where it goes through the headlight cowling (if it does) and use the connectors in there, sometimes there is a connector block inside the cowl that transfers the loom to the handle bar controls, so you can take them off (handle bar controls) without stripping the whole loom off, the same applies to the ignition system off the loom you WILL find a block that connects to the ign switch so go in there for your connection, just think outside the box as it were. PS It really is much easier than I am making it sound, just use a multi meter to test you have the right cable (on each end) and that's all you need to do. Sorry if you think I am being patronising but I don't know what your skill level is so thought I would join the dot's as it were.

Hardly time to worry with only 7K on the clock!! But usually it is when it starts to make more noise than it should, that's pretty subjective I know but the only other way to find out is to take the rocker cover off and dig around with a feeler gauge as you check your manual. Sorry can't be more helpful than that as mine has done 39K and still has the original valves and shims!

WEMOTO can be quite good but you will still have to pay postage on your order, all you can do is give them a try, there is a place in Bristol that some on here use by can't for the life of me remember what it's called (getting old!) someone will tell you the name if you stick around.

Hi Jake, Welcome to the YOC, always nice to meet new folks.

Hi, When you say it roll starts I suppose you mean that if you bung it in 2nd gear and roll it along & let the clutch out it fires up and runs ok? If the kick start has a problem it could be anything really as your not describing your problem very well, I know your new to bikes so what does it actually do? Does the kick start actually turn the engine over? or does it just go straight down with out turning the engine over or does it jam in place, the mechanism for the kick start is quite simple really just a cog on the shaft usually with a spring to return it to an upright position, if either of these is broken or damaged then the simple answer is to replace one or both of them, unless the shaft is damaged which is a much more complicated procedure but doable if you have the right tools. SO try to describe EXACTLY what the kick start does and someone will no doubt be able to tell you what the problem is and how to fix it. Please do an "INTRO" New members section so folks get to know you, we are strangers to you same as you are to us, it's polite to say Hi before you launch into questions on how to fix your bike. PS That is a lovely little bike by the way, keep it looking like that and you will be the envy of your friends.

How about you find the fuse box take off the main fuse connectors (INPUT & OUTPUT with a fuse between them) solder on your new USB thingy to each side of the connectors and then simply replace them, that way your charger will only work when you turn the ignition on! Mind you it will come on every time you turn the IGN on so it might also be an idea to switch it the way I suggested earlier. Just my thoughts on it but it might be fiddly to do, but essentially you will have a switchable power supply that is protected via a fuse giving a full 12/14V. PS forgot about the fuel sensor wire when I wrote the earlier post, my bad!

It's easy, just pull out the centre plug and the 4 clips on the inside will move out of the way so you can withdraw the outer casing, just reverse to put it back in. My tank is only held on by a bolt at the back 2 fuel lines and 2 rubber bung things on the frame takes about 5 minutes to remove or replace, plus you can attach your new wiring to the original loom with ties so keeping it tidy. Makes more sense than routing it outside on the frame to my way of thinking but it's your bike so what's best for you really.

Hi Sorin, Welcome to the YOC, hope you enjoy your time with us.

OH FFS Grouch.

Foamy for me, Grouch has no chance of fixing his bike before it becomes a classic!!

VJ, you have to be more precise about what the noise is!! Does it gurgle thump rattle whistle?? You can't just say I have a noise how do I make it go away, for all we know it sings pop songs and dances reggae style !!!!!!!.

SON OF A BITCH!!! I thought you had started it ages ago when you said you were pulling it off of ebay, we have all been waiting to see what the problem was. Right now fix the bloody thing no more "I will do it tomorrow", get the spanners out and take it to bits. If you need any help ASK!!!!!!!!!!!

Sorry to hear that Cynic, not much you can do but rest it I'm afraid, which when you think about it is not a lot of use if you want to ride to work!!! You will just have to wait for the muscle to heal. I think your about to say something rude?

You are having the same problem as a lot of people do, the idle jet is set to one measure and the fast running jet is set to another, if you get to close to the fast running jet settings then it will not come back down as quickly as it should, this is what you have described, try adjusting the timing to get your idle to run properly, this is the only thing I can think of that will cure your problem, you should turn your idle down anyway as if you leave it as it is at the moment you run the risk of it NOT shutting down when you approach a junction and running into traffic when you are effectively out of control of the bike, not something you want to do!! If all else fails have a word with your local Yam dealer workshop and see what it will cost to get it set up properly, usually around £30, money well spent when you think about it as getting stuffed up the back of someone's car or running into a bush cos you can't stop is not good for your self esteem. Best I can suggest for you, someone else might have a better fix on here tho.

WOW and I do mean WOW!!! 170MPG and a tidy bit of engineering to, not for me but someone is going to love this thing. I suppose if it was a twin it would do 85MPG and 120 mph (joking!!)

I hesitate to say it but if the fuel pump does not work then just replace it seems the only option, unless I'm missing something? Someone on here will probably have a fix for you if you wait around long enough.

Tommy is right, that seems an awful lot of money for an XJ900 even in "IMMACULATE" condition, if I were you I would start a serious look for anything else out there. It's 1992 and has 25K on it, not the highest mileage but still enough, the engines on these are bullet proof if you look after them so even 40 or 50K ones (if looked after) will be tight and revy mine (750) has just under 40K on it and runs and rides like new (mostly) it broke down a couple of weeks ago but that was my fault not the bikes. mine is 31 years old and has been abused and ridden in some appauling conditions and still keep plodding on so don't be afraid of one that has a few more miles on it and costs A LOT LESS. Just my thoughts on it mind you have to go with what you like. Good luck with your search. Just another thought, if you wait till Autumn or even the winter most bikes can be bought for a lot less money!

Glad we could help out VJ, Ride safe.

You probably need a puller to get it off the con rod if it will not just slide out, it MIGHT be possible to heat it and then give it a whack with a drift but there is always the potential to damage something else along the way if you do that unless you are really careful, as your splitting the engine anyway why not wait till you have it apart and then take it off of the crankshaft and deal with it in a vice rather than trying to sod about with it attached to the engine? That seems to be the best idea I can come up with for the moment maybe others will have a better idea. Just a thought why not just junk the con rod & piston altogether and fit new when you have it all in bits? Good luck Fakhir.

Welcome to the YOC Calum, Nice little bike, looks like new, good job you have done on it. I'm in Stroud not far from you will wave if I see you about!!

If you don't want it to shine then SOAP & WATER is all you can do.

If your having real trouble getting the old screws out then one way is to drill the top of the screw off and just leave the shaft sticking out, then when you get it apart you can get a grip on the screw shaft and turn it out which a pair of stilsons or mole grips. As your not going to use them again it will not matter if you bugger them completely. DON'T use heat on old ali casings as they will warp or worse still fracture into pieces, just use enough force to turn the screw without putting to much pressure on the screw thread, believe it or not sometimes it's better to tighten slightly before you loosen the screw, soak in wd40 or penetrating oil for a few hours before you try to take them out. Good luck mate. PS just clean up the magnets, wipe the rust off, they don't touch anything and they don't wear out like a mechanical item.

HI Jack welcome to the YOC, always nice to meet new people. PS, I have 3 cats as well but my wife is NOT as ODD as yours well they are all odd as they are girls but you know what I mean?

Jimmy, that one day a year makes it all worth while plus thinking about all those muppets in their offices looking out at it must make this a grin factor 10 day.

Don't wish to sound to pesamistic but it could be something deeper in the engine, 1 vid is noisy but the shaft is turning where as the 2 vid the shaft is not turning, could it actually be deeper in the engine? NOT saying it is just a thought. Is there any way to turn the shaft without the clutch cage being in place (engine running)? It could be a gearbox or selector rattle. Sorry about that didn't mean to be a worry wart. PS When the engine stops turning on vid 1 there is a definite noise as the engine dies like a snap sound, was wondering if it might be the selector mech? Click on it at about 7/8 seconds in.