chris66

what are you using to seat the seals? chris

if you lube is 32:1 then thats very close to 3% already

i dont mind doing the maths if anyone knows the ratio of the auto lube

are you trying to get the them out without dismantling the forks ?

you seem to be getting good help but i thought i would try to help aswell . firstly the factory settings on a older bike are just a starting place and generally a fair bit out because of ware ect. your symptoms are classic lean mixture or air leak. try making the bike run over rich and see if the tick-over improves, then if it does turn the screws in until just before it starts to increase the revs. it can be quite a balancing act on worn carbs to an extent where refurb kit is your only answer. my yzf 750 runs poorly at 2, 1/2 out(factory) has similar promlems to you at 2 turns and is perfect at 2,1/4 so be patient.chris

it gives you more power, acceleration is improved plus a little top end.chris

someone should be sitting on it holding it level while you check it

pilot/ idle jets dirty is usually the cause, have you tried turning the tick over up

your welcome

clean the jets with tin carb cleaner and compressed air if you have access to a compressor, but not anything rubber as the cleaner is suppose to rot rubber. my diaphragms are never dirty so not sure if there is a specialized cleaner. chris

i used to have a road legal ty 50 that shared similarity's with your bike.

if you cam put a picture of your box on here i can match it up with mine

hi i think it was 96/97 but a lot of people change the rad for the curved one as it cools a lot better. i have put a manual switch on my fans so if i get stuck in traffic i can switch the fans on early. they changed the fairings slightly in 95 i think.chris

i expect it would come up in first or burn your clutch out.

as some have said the cap is correct and only removed to sync carbs. this must be a air tight fit. the rubbers do need changing for one the will be sucking minute amounts of air causing your mixture to be out also when the inlet valve is closed there will be a fine mist of fuel / air in these rubbers so possible seeping out but as kindest said it could be a leak from somewhere higher.chris

are you in the uk?

the leak could be float level but more likely your needle valve not seating tight, perhaps a little dirt. i have always used a little t cut on white plastics.

if the float hight is set to high it would cause this also if the float valve was not seating properly through wear or dirt i would also give these symptoms. it sounds like your float bowl is continuously filling causing the bike to flood hence the bad running and loss of one cylinder. chris

sounds to me like its getting resistance from somewhere(bad connection some where)trying to draw the power it needs through rusty connectors or earthing out somewhere. thats where i would start if someone brought it to me. chris

your post reminds me so much of when i was young , trying to ring every mph out of 125s, only difference is our bikes back then were two strokes which could be tuned to get big hp increases. dont be in such a hurry to get bigger bikes, yes they are super fast, most big sports bikes can do that sort of speed in second. but trust me they are not as much fun, personally i think two stroke 250/350 is as big as you ever need. i own a yzf 750r because i have always wanted one, but it cant be used to its potential safety on the road. i wish i still had my rd250lc, but sadly they are commanding silly money so cant buy another one.

lowering the back will lengthen the wheel base resulting in your bike not turning into corners as fast, but as the others have said you probably wont notice. dropping the front a little will shorten in back up. only problem is your side stand will be a little long causing the bike to stand more upright and more prone to falling over . chris

to be fair the bike revs to 13000 so 9000 is not near its limit, it just seems to be a sweet spot. when your bike easily does 3 figure speeds in third gear you can only use the higher revs in 1st and second. i was testing the bike as i had just been working on the carbs, and wanted to make sure it was pulling right. chris