Paulwhite

i dont see how it wouldnt work.... the neutral light needs a positive and negative as with the high beam (bulb) so in theory you could rout some new wire (positive)from the bulb connector to the colour you need, then run the positive from the neutral to the other colour... on the same l,e,d, then rout all the earth wires back to earth. id say best thing to do is use the connectors to hook up the led (then ur not cutting any loom) and see if it works.

+1 oh one thing to try..(which would check the electrics) when you turn the ignition on you should hear a click....not a click from the key end but from the middle of the bike. that click is the main relay routing power to the ecu ect, its a bit on the quiet side so might take 1 or 2 tries to hear it. if it dont click then its a new main relay you will need. but check ur fuel lines/carb and spark plugs 1st.

hence the lmao

+1! your not allowed to do more than 70mph anyway..... ......so whats the point? best to have good acceleration to 60mph! then at least you can overtake that bus doing 48 in a 60 zone

either that or someone has put different jets in.... the high flow air filter and straight through exhaust would cause the carb to run lean (if the carb is set to standard) as more air passes through with less sucking action. normally if the exhaust has been changed then the jets in the carb would be changed to compensate. best way to tell if the mix is rich or lean is look at ur spark plugs (black = rich, white = lean, orangy/straw like colour = spot on) its one of them jobs that takes a while to fix as you need to do this then that and see if it works then dismantle it again and change it slightly ect ect. it would be loads easier if you had a Haynes manual as you could determine if owt has been changed, and it also gives you the factory settings for the carb which would make a good starting point for you to go off. saves paying 40+ quid an hour for labor! but anyhoo hope you get it fixed ready for the nice weather

at the end of the day its a 125 .....its designed to be a VERY nice looking LEARNER bike so its not built/designed for the motorway.......

the bike might be slow .....ish but it has some grunt so think a screen would help you out and not affect the speed too much. you just got to think all that weight to power, plus the wind resistance..... but most of the wind resistance is smacking u in the face, so by rights a screen would reduce drag and make it a little more stream lined and bearable at high speeds.

oooo nooo ....its lumpy and drops when you pull back the trottle cause there is too much fuel. put it down a notch and it should get better.

defo not a solenoid problem..... unless drewpy is right and you have a short. the fuel pump should be mechanical (like the 125) could be a number of things.... best thing to do is check over the bike 1.check fuses and spark plugs 2.check fuel lines are clear (including carb) and there is no dirt in there 3.check all cables/connections and battery (battery should be reading out about 13volts!) 4.check the air filter and the carb joint (the black plastic bit going from carb to cylinders) there prone to getting cracks and splits 5.check oil (make sure its good and not white and creamy) once you have checked these report back then we can narrow down the fault. and just to say my xvs 125 did something similar just died whilst riding, it started but could only do 30 top and was making strange noises.

you said that the plugs are comming out black which would mean a fueling/mix problem, have you re-calibrated the carbs at all? other than move the needle? i think if you re-set the carbs to standard then tweek them it should sort it out . best bet would be to find a manual (try the search on the forum) or ask in a new topic? then go from there. at least then you know that the carbs are set up right! but as a basic setup the needles should be set half way, and the mix screw (air screw) should be 1 and 3/4 turns out. (im not sure on your model so dont hold me to it) im sure once you have sorted the mix out it will run sweet! its a ball ache i know and takes up a bit of time but when its done its done! good luck m8 and let me know how you get on!

well unless he is fitting a 250cc kit to it (there isnt one) then he is havin u on love....(no offence) but probably cause ur a girl.(mechanics tend to try it on to get some more pennies) the only thing you could do to it to make it faster at top end is a sprocket change but that will only gain you aboot 5mph so best advice on this one would be to sell it and move on to something bigger im afraid either that or enjoy it for what it is and avoid the motorway..?

im guessing that the bike is now running properly ABxv535? oh and Razor carbs arnt that hard to clean (there quite simple in that respect, 2 covers, float, diaphragm, needle, spring, 2 jets,) its setting them back up properly and tryin not to "misplace" any bits thats the tricky bit but if you dont mess with the settings (mix screw and sync) then you should be ok. difficulty rating...?? about as hard as a sprocket set change but not as hard as a weiring job. so say... 4 out of 10

the way iv done mine is to thread about 4 screws (in a cross) by 2 or 3 turns then turn the engine with the screws facing to the floor (depends which side the crank comes out), wedge the engine in the work bench (on top half of the engine casing) and tap the crank shaft poking out the top. it pushes the crank down the bearing that needs to be pulled,(bearing should be at the top) and splits the case, the screws stop it from hitting the floor! but iv only done that on my engine which was a xv 125 v2.

use plastic bags to cover most of the tank (saves leaving tape marks) you need to do some tests to find out when would be the best time to take the tape off after you have painted the stripe on. you want it so the paint sets enough so it dont drip but runny enough it dont stretch. i found that the paint would sort of stretch along the edges leaving a like riped efect.....if that makes any sense but yeah do some tests then you can get it right when you come to do the tank and fenders. oh and i found electrical tape was quite good to use.

"Iam listening to you all as thats why i made the post, im just trying to learn how I can go that little bit faster like any 16 year old with a 50cc bike." ....you cant.... "and yeah you can get big bore kits for around £140 aswell as many other engine parts such as racing clutches and cranks, carbs, exhausts bout £160 for a decent one. but im just wondering if doing little things like changing reed petals or the filter foam/the air filter itself will make any difference." ....no it wont.... "you know what its like 16 get a 50cc bike think its the best thing youve ever owned then your mates come out with their 70cc bore kits then you realise your 50cc is really just pants" ....yes they are....

ha ha "its completely standard except for de-restriction".......sais it all lol its catch 22 im afraid. if you want to be faster at pull off you need to drop top speed, and if you want more speed you loose acceleration. its the same for all bikes m8. it can be done but that would mean fookin the engine up to do it. (you have been warned!) 1. stick some No2 (or nitrous oxide) in the fuel tank this will make it fly for about 3 miles then ur engine goes pop. 2. spend about a grand on a custom turbo setup which should last longer till the engine melts 3. get a big bore kit (if there is one for the bike) cost around 300 quid (if you fit it yourself) 4. spend 300 quid on a sports exhaust something like a scorpion can or something and get an extra 5 mph top end and a little bit more at bottom end (you would be able to drag a small child or push that granny in the mobility scooter) 5. wait till ur 17 and get a 125 .....instant power gains!

dont hold me to it! but i know the xvs 125 uses the 250 frame so makes sence that yamaha would save money by using the same parts for both the 125 and 250.

ahh patiance is a vertue ....well so they say. but saying that being on a 50 is a good chance to learn to ride properly! personaly i think there death traps designed to keep the population down... (cough) but yeah dont rush m8 take your time. and do your life savers! its only 1 year (if that!) gives you plenty of time to save up to get the 125 of your dreams! and put your bro to shame! ha ha!

ooooo ....thats gonna look sweet makes me wish i bought chrome handle bars , think you might have some trouble getting the filter setup to work properly though....the xvs engine is very temperamental! even if its a slight fraction out on the air fuel mix it will run rough as foooook. but yeah looking good m8 nice to see another (proper)custom xvs 125!

yeah id have to agree im afraid... wait till you can get a 125cc then sell the 50cc as a standard bike (you will get more money for it). at the end of the day a 50cc is just so you can potter about a bit faster than a granny in a mobility scooter. just save your money and get a 125 you will be chuffed to bits with it!

hello and welcome to the forum if i was you id keep the 250 dragstar standard and lock it away for 20 odd years then it would be worth quite a bit ....eventualy as you said there very rare in the uk! but as im not you.... any parts from the 125 dragstar should fit no probs....as to other parts like tanks from other bikes ect you would have to do some custom mods to get them to fit like weld/modify brackets to the frame and chop bits off ect .....all depends what look your after best bet would be to buy some 2nd hand 125 parts and customize them to what you want, that way you know its going to fit...plus you can always put it back standard

thats what i would of done! the worst that would happen is you drag them across the road ...for a little bit....give them a taste of gravel rash.... glad to hear ur ok and not seriously hurt though.(just ur pride ) whats the damage to the bike? im assuming it fell on its left side. i might be able to help u out with a few bits and bobs like indicators and other bits.(depends what iv got left lyin around in the shed)

well a good battery should show between 13 and 14v fully charged think your battery has been stood in the cold for a while i dont know anyone who needs one m8 but im sure you could sell the starter motor on e-bay for a good price. but personally id keep it for a spare as they cost quite a bit new.

1st off you didnt need to swap everything lol it sounds like an earthing problem or a battery problem. so lets keep it simple 1. check the fuses 2. charge the battery over night (take it out of the bike) the solenoid needs at least 12v to work properly so if the battery is slightly low then all you will get is a "click" take it out and charge it for a minimum of 4 hours on a trickle charger, this will ensure that the battery is fully charged. if that dont solve the problem (which i think it will) then try below. there are 2 bolts on the starter solenoid one should go to the positive on the battery and the other to the starter motor, you want to put something metal (like a spanner) across the points to complete the circuit and see if the starter motor turns. (be carefully as it will spark and possibly blow a fuse, oh and wear some decent gloves) this should make the starter motor turn as it bypasses the start button, if the motor dont turn then it could be an earthing problem. get some wire, undo a bolt that holds the starter motor on and wrap one end of the wire to the bolt then tighten it back up, then attach the other end of the wire to a bolt on the frame, say the bolt that holds the rear brake cable in place. this will directly earth the starter motor, then try to start it again. if you find that it works with the wire but dont work without the wire, then its an earthing problem. i can go through how to fix it with u if you need to. hope this helps and post a reply to let me know how u get on .Paul.

hmmm... if it was me id whip off the pillion seat and sissy bar (since you dont use it anyway) and stick a small bobber seat on there, without the springs and maybe a little exhaust wrap ......but thats just me lol looking good though the massive gap between fender and tire seems to be a common feature in the xv and xvs range dunno why .