DirtyDT

I think I have managed to source another RD400 frame. When I say frame I mean almost enough for a rolling chassis. It comes complete with a log book, MOT and tax. '76 on a R plate. My initial thoughts are to build this up using the parts from the un-registered bike 2 and then possibly use the left over bits for bike 3. I did say there was enough room in the workshop for Another bike but didn't expect it to be so soon and not another RD400!

You are a very slow walker.

Well done Bippo. I went to junior school in Surrey and spent a long time working around Holborn, Chancery Lane, Hatton Gardens, St Paul's etc. my last job whilst living in the South was at Victoria but spent a year since living in the midlands working at Euston (commuting). I haven't really been back to London for a good few years now (just family stuff for the odd day) but I don't miss it to be honest. Sometimes you just have to follow the work. Good luck.

There are paying options but you can check your own vehicle for free.

Has his boss given him the van to own? If so I doubt that the company are insuring it. You can check insurance online at Www.askmid.com just put in the vans reg number.

The race is now on. Did I hear something about Zazzle going bust

I have said to Paul there is a question on here. Hopefully he will get time to pop in and help.

Paul will know more but it might have to be a Q plate. I would check out if you can get affordable insurance on it too. It may be worth asking Lee in the insurance section.

I would still like to own my old VF 400 and VF 500.

Actually the answer is yes we can. If you send a PM to a member named Paul Dawkins he will be able to advise you and let you know the fee. Don't forget to say hello in the new members section.

Very nice. Very, very nice.

No worries.

Do you want me to ping your cash back Keith?

Not sure about where you are but in the UK some high performance tyres can't be legally repaired. That said, for less than £100 I would let the shop sort it.

Good to see you here again.

If you had 30 years until retirement I would say take the new job - if offered. With 10 years I would say sit tight and enjoy what you have. The only real reason to move is if the pension was considerably more (after tax and excluding the additional payments you would be making). Mind you, at least I wouldn't have to feel envious every time you posted a picture of you chugging around in a boat with beautiful scenery behind you.

Wanted and for sale sections are for forum members who support the costs of the forum by payment. When posts are just deleted, there is often a period where the post is repeated a number of times as the poster does not realise what has gone on.

I edited the post and title. Wanted items should be put in the wanted section.

I have seen them peined on so hard that they don't move until forced to go around a sprocket. The pin and side plate sizes are the same for both links so providing the securing clip stays on; what's the difference!

Have you updated all the shockwave and flash codex too? I don't get the message but am running a new 64 Bit, Windows 8.1, laptop and only use Firefox. Have you cleared all of the porn off your machine? LINKY

I am a fan of the split link. The largest I have knowingly used one on was a 1980's GSXR750. Apart from the FZ8, all of my bikes run a split link. When I change a chain I tend to go for a heavy duty X ring. I saves having to mess about with adjustment as often. If the chain doesn't come with a split link, I buy one (often 2) separately. I would guess that it is easier, and cheaper, to fit soft links during the manufacturing process.

Java probably needs updating John. LINKY

The very top part - the small centre part I have cut off - was. The rest is smooth down to the end of the crank and there is a small lip part way down. Too small to get a slide puller to grip it. Nothing was screwed into the thread as this was for the puller to be threaded into it to remove it. The remaining smooth bore, and the fact that it slightly widens at the lip about 15mm in, is why I was thinking of threading it and putting a long bolt through it to push against the crank. I would get the same effect if I welded a nut to the end of remaining coil. Probing inside it I can feel where the Woodruff key is and if I turn it on its side and fill the hole with plusgas it leaked out at various points where it joins the crank. I can say with 100% certainty that it is a push fit with a Woodruff key to stop it spinning. I haven't attempted to pop it off for a while but I am now tempted just to get it off anyhow - with the exception of damaging the crankcase as this has the engine number on it.

Quite the opposite. I would guess about £1500 restored at present prices. It's not about the money, money money.................................. I only brought it because it was local and cheap. It looks funky though

The generator coil is a press fit on the end of the crank. The governor is held in place with a long bolt which screws into the end of the crank. The Generator coil has had a thread which takes the removal tool and this is wider than the bolt that goes through to the crank holding the governor. The whole generator assembly is held on to the crankcase with 2 bolts and this is held in a static position with the generator coil spinning on the end of the crank and the governor - which has a cam shape actuates the points. The governor has a retard/advance weight mechanism similar to old school cars. The generator with governor removed and the end of the coil can be seen in the middle of the hole. This remains in a static position, the copper coil spins inside. The crank The Genni. 1 - spins 2 - is static 29 - is the cam, weighted governor which operates the points 31 - is the bolt that holds on the governor through the coil (not attaching to it) and threaded into the end of the crank. Because it is cam shaped it opens and closes the points. It does not slip as it is aligned to a small lip on the end of the generator coil (1).