DirtyDT

That would chafe and nobody would want to see me just in my skiddies Drewps!

Thanks Sacha. It looks better in the photo but providing I can get it bolted together, it passes an MOT (our annual roadworthy certificate), and it gets me to Squires and back then I will be happy. The plan is then to strip it back down again and get it in better shape. This is how I brought it: Not as good in the flesh Airhead but Squires is calling it ha ha.

Today's update. I have been spraying parts over the last few day's. Some engine covers and some other bits. New sprocket, clutch and kickstart seals. Changed the head and clutch cover and bolted it back with Stainless pan head screws. The bore looks good and no oversize markings on the piston. Waiting for a call to say my wheels and tyres are ready for collection. Undecided about using a set of OK forks for the time being as I still cant get them apart. I even ordered the "special socket" for it (20 bl00dy quid) but I need to get a longer extension to get into the forks. Bolted a few bits on the frame. Today it is looking like this:

180 miles per hour if pushed out of an airplane.

I think it has sold !

73 days to go. Anyone ready?

Peace, love and tranquility daddi'O. Welcome.

As my previous post. Dont forget to use antifreeze.

Ahh.

The idea of the expansion is that it holds water for the main rad to suck extra water in when needed and then push it into the tank when it gets under pressure and expands. Is water being pushed from the expansion overflow or is there one near the rad cap? before I changed the gasket I would change the thermostat and the radiator cap. Refill and then bleed the system. Also check the colour of the water. is it white, like milk or does it look OK?

If it helps LINKY

The woodruff key is just a small piece of semi circular metal. I don't know why you want to change yours? It is on the shaft where the nut is you are trying to get off. It they break then the engine tends to run backwards. I would guess a new one is a main dealer purchase. Earlier you said that the plug was soaked in petrol. I would say that the bike was flooding and if you have a spark and are happy with the compression then I would check the float on the carb and if petrol was getting into the engine when the bike is stationary. I would dry and heat the plug up. with the fuel off, try and run the bike.

Bike switched off. Put the bike in gear and get someone to sit on the bike with the rear brake on. put a spanner on the nut and give the spanner a sharp crack rather than a push to start it off. You can get straps and other tools to hold the magneto. I have a pair of mole looking grips that have flat ends on one side - to hold the front sprocket - and studs on the other - to fit into holes in the magneto. Like this LINKY When the nut is undone you will still need to put the magnet/rotor off. There are specific tools but I prefer (and have) a puller set like this LINKY

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Or not how to do it LINKY

Disk brakes Clean the disk, and anything else that is contaminated, with brake disk cleaner. Throw away the pads and put new ones in. Drum brakes Clean the contact area of the drum, and anything else that is contaminated, with brake disk cleaner. throw away the shoes and put new ones in. STP stuff is good. More importantly, keep the neighbour away from your bike.

Shouldn't that be the Germanic job as Mini are owned by BMW? Have you seen the new Mini Blitzkrieg?

Welcome to the forum Mr Smallpiece.

I posted a song for Blackhat in the regular birthday slot. Happy birthday Yamahead.

Hi and welcome to the forum Olly.