DirtyDT

The next thing I would do is take the carb off, strip and clean it. I would also drain the fuel and put new petrol in it.

Matlock Baths, Derbyshire?

Never tried one. Not sure how useful the audio is; all you are going to hear is someone really enjoying your bike. Alternatively, if you placed the unit under the seat, the sound of flatulence!

Happy Birthday Mike. I think you have to wait a few years for the telegram to arrive. A possible reason you haven't heard from her is she is having a bash with Phil the Greek today.

OK. The spark looks OK but worrying that the plug is dry. Take the plug out, push the kickstart. Can you hear the piston moving in the engine? Put your thumb over the plug hole and push the kickstart. Can you feel a fair amount of pressure when you use the kickstart? Put the fuel tap onto off, take the fuel pipe off the carb and, using a container to catch it, when you turn the fuel tap to reserve does fuel come out of the pipe? Reconnect the pipe and put the tap onto reserve. Put the plug back in - cleaned if required. Take off the petrol tank filler cap and leave off. Undo the airbox air pipe at the rear of the carb, with the choke off and the throttle fully open, spray a liberal amount of WD40 into the rear of the carb. Try and start the bike. Let me know what each result is.

Thanks.

Boy are you going to be in trouble..................................................... Very funny though!

The easiest thing it to tackle one thing at a time. If no one has messed with the valves, then they may be out but I doubt that this is the problem. 1). Check you have got a spark - Take out the plug, hold it against a good earth (the engine head?) and see if it sparks when you kick the bike over. be careful and hole the plug with an insulated pair of pliers. Take not of the spark colour. Make sure the plug is clean and is gapped correctly. 2) if you get a spark that is blue and "fat", pour a little petrol into the plug hole, replace the plug and HT cable and kick the bike over again. What happens? 3) After you have tried to start the bike, if it is still not starting, take out the plug, clean and dry it. Return the plug into the hole and try and start the bike again. After a few kicks remove the plug and see what it looks like. Is it wet? smell it, does it smell of fresh petrol? If you don't get a spark when you do number 1 then the issue is electrical and so you need to start checking that. A new plug and plug cap never hurt. Do this and report the findings back. As for the electric start, clean all of the connections from the battery, past the relay to the starter before you start to look to replace this. You can use a thick cable from the +ve of the battery directly to the positive side of the starter motor to test if the starter motor spins. Be careful here, a thin cable will get very hot and may hurt. You must have some degree of mechanical and electrical knowledge to do these tests safely. You need to decide if you can carry these out safely.

Take Airheads advice re the air filter. The choke is out for choke and in for no choke. They do often not stay out when worn but mist people get used to that. The WD40 when running is to check for any air leaks as it will alter the revs of the engine. It definitely sounds like a full strip for the carb and a clear out of the jets.

Good on him Mike. You must share your birthday with HRH (or is that Hitler?). My birthday on Monday and St Georges day on Tuesday.

Moved to Customs section.

At the moment Mike. You might wake up tomorrow and find that they have raised the retirement age to 135. Then when you get to that age, you can't afford to retire anyway!

Well, "Happy Birthday" for Sunday Mike.

Blackhat will be on soon with tales of you, Squires and 2 stroke (or lack of it). I have 1/2 a bottle, smoked the rest or is in the TS.

Other duplicate post hidden now. Have you had the carb off and cleaned it? Have you started the bike and sprayed some wd40 around the air intake manifold and if so did it make any difference to the revs?

I'll move it.

Should this be in the workshop section?

Thanks for the heads up Merv. The Castrol Power 1 Racing 2T is my oil of choice. Great 2 stroke oil. All mine is outside of the recall numbers.

Its true. It also shows the start of going from over engineering to under engineering. The frame is like armour plating. It has the same crank bearings as some of the DT175's and RD200 and yet the bolts are made of the worst cheese type metal. When I have used the impact driver on them, the heads have kinked and some of the bolt shafts have bent. Mind you I did learn my hammering technique from Thor!

It isn't an M10 as this is too large. Some of the little Yams do have M10 sized Armatures but communication with Lex yesterday showed how bin parts these bikes were as they seem to come up differently. I will wait for the puller from Lex and it that doesn't work due to the armature thread being knackered, I was thinking about drilling it and tapping it to a M10. The depths are 2 inches from the armature to the crank and 2 7/8 inches from the armature to the bottom of the hole in the crank. So if the Kwacker bolt is longer than 3 inches including the "probe" and the "probe" is longer than an inch and I drill and tap it to M10, it might be something I could try.

LINKY

It's a "no" from me. The supermoto tyres are fine. Fat tyres do not mean better grip.

This could get interesting. I saw the ad for the app when I was going from opera mini mobile to full forum. I had a look but was put off as it looks like you get ads thrown in. Normally I would buy an app to get rid of the ads. Am I mistaken? Is the paid app ads free?

LINKY

I have been in contact with a guy called Lex from Swarfrat http://swarfrat.com/MotorcycleTools.htm about the armature puller tool. I have had some great information from him. He plans to manufacture a prototype which, once proven, will be available from his site. He is in the market to manufacture this type of special tools so if you have a similar issue or need a one off of something similar, make contact with him to see what he can do. He did point out that he was surprised that I thought the thread was an M8 as his experience said that was too narrow. He was spot on and I guess that is the reason many people ruin the threads on these which means that the only way of getting them off is to cut them off.