DirtyDT

Good on him Mike. You must share your birthday with HRH (or is that Hitler?). My birthday on Monday and St Georges day on Tuesday.

Moved to Customs section.

At the moment Mike. You might wake up tomorrow and find that they have raised the retirement age to 135. Then when you get to that age, you can't afford to retire anyway!

Well, "Happy Birthday" for Sunday Mike.

Blackhat will be on soon with tales of you, Squires and 2 stroke (or lack of it). I have 1/2 a bottle, smoked the rest or is in the TS.

Other duplicate post hidden now. Have you had the carb off and cleaned it? Have you started the bike and sprayed some wd40 around the air intake manifold and if so did it make any difference to the revs?

I'll move it.

Should this be in the workshop section?

Thanks for the heads up Merv. The Castrol Power 1 Racing 2T is my oil of choice. Great 2 stroke oil. All mine is outside of the recall numbers.

Its true. It also shows the start of going from over engineering to under engineering. The frame is like armour plating. It has the same crank bearings as some of the DT175's and RD200 and yet the bolts are made of the worst cheese type metal. When I have used the impact driver on them, the heads have kinked and some of the bolt shafts have bent. Mind you I did learn my hammering technique from Thor!

It isn't an M10 as this is too large. Some of the little Yams do have M10 sized Armatures but communication with Lex yesterday showed how bin parts these bikes were as they seem to come up differently. I will wait for the puller from Lex and it that doesn't work due to the armature thread being knackered, I was thinking about drilling it and tapping it to a M10. The depths are 2 inches from the armature to the crank and 2 7/8 inches from the armature to the bottom of the hole in the crank. So if the Kwacker bolt is longer than 3 inches including the "probe" and the "probe" is longer than an inch and I drill and tap it to M10, it might be something I could try.

LINKY

It's a "no" from me. The supermoto tyres are fine. Fat tyres do not mean better grip.

This could get interesting. I saw the ad for the app when I was going from opera mini mobile to full forum. I had a look but was put off as it looks like you get ads thrown in. Normally I would buy an app to get rid of the ads. Am I mistaken? Is the paid app ads free?

LINKY

I have been in contact with a guy called Lex from Swarfrat http://swarfrat.com/MotorcycleTools.htm about the armature puller tool. I have had some great information from him. He plans to manufacture a prototype which, once proven, will be available from his site. He is in the market to manufacture this type of special tools so if you have a similar issue or need a one off of something similar, make contact with him to see what he can do. He did point out that he was surprised that I thought the thread was an M8 as his experience said that was too narrow. He was spot on and I guess that is the reason many people ruin the threads on these which means that the only way of getting them off is to cut them off.

True!

My recent tube and rim tape was £30 fitted to a loose wheel so about right it the rim was on the bike.

No worries. Keep your eyes peeled for a bright yellow SV650 or a red Suzuki TS250 as they are my main rides. The YA-6 is being worked on.

I know where Sileby and Barrow are but I am originally from London. Moved up about 5 to 6 years ago.

That Blackhat fella has a habit of going 'round letting bike tyres down. Sell it now and buy a 2 stroker Grouchy.

The kick will just operate the same parts of the bike as the electric starter, Just slower so I am surprised that there is only a spark on one method. Have a look at the YA project thread for some help

Got the cases off. Hacksawed a slot when required and beat the screws with the impact and a large hammer. Tried all the screw suggestions but nothing has worked yet. Looks like I will be getting the drill out. Had a look at the generator. After a few horror stories I knew mine would be easy - yeh right. Anyway, Cam cover off like this Remove the cam and screw Undid the 2 bolts that hold the generator on. Careful of the right one as there is a thin wire near the the bolt that can easily break. A couple of soft taps with a rubber mallet ans a flat driver under it. Armature exposed Now I would like to show you a picture without the armature attached but I can't. The bl00dy thing will not shift. As per a post I put elsewhere, removing this is purely down to the right tools, the hope that no one has messed with it and luck. These are pushed on with a woodruff key to stop them from spinning. Mine has been on for about 48 years. It the central hole there is a part thread (about 20mm deep) before it goes to nothing and then hits the end of the crank. The thread is a M8 P1.25 but most bolts of that size are too out of tolerance to get a decent fit. The wobble in the thread and pulling on them will ruin the thread. There is a special tool and I have contacted someone who may be able to make me a tool of the right material. I have tried using a block of wood each side of the armature and a metal bar across the block - nothing moved. I have tried attaching a puller (arrived today) - nothing. If I don't get any joy from the guy I contacted I will possibly drill the center hole and thread it to a M10 (It shouldn't make any difference to fit of anything but might give me a better thread to work with) or cut the thing of. I can get a NOS one for about £100 assuming I get caught for import duty so, although I don't want to waste this part or take on the additional cost, but these are available so I am not too fussed about breaking it if I have to.

Great stuff mate.

Maybe you can help me with a "boil" problem I have at the moment........................................................