DirtyDT

The blue/white cable runs from the start switch, to the starter relay to a diode. This is part of the inhibitor system to stop the bike from starting if in gear etc. This is not the way to test the starter - but I guess you know that now.

I think the YOC 2014 calender will be available sometime in 2020. It might be an idea to have a last trawl of pictures, Someone to pick 12 (if we do it by committee it may never get done), take some pre publication orders and then put them up for sale.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

No worries. These bikes seem to be reliable. I can't help with the settings but check that both cylinders are getting firing OK - plug condition and plug dampness. I know that the XV's had issues with the carb manifold (carb to engine) which splits. This could create knocking plus checking the tappets. I guess if it is a knock or a tap sound and when stationary or not.

OK - I have left a link in the bar area so you can find the post. Moved to the workshop. You should be able to see it on a phone. Depending on what phone you have it will be visible towards the bottom of the fist page. If you are in the "General" section of the forum on your phone you will not see it as you need to go back to the landing page. Changing the rings is an easy job, made difficult as you will need to make sure that the timing is set correctly once you take the top end off and the tappets are set correctly once re-assembled.

I am happy to move this to the workshop area, just let me know. I am not sure I have ever come across a manual for this bike.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

I don't know about the fuses but the side stand switch would still work if the bulb was blown.

Sounds like he shorted something testing the starter. Check the fuses first. Check for burnt out wiring next. The neutral switch is just an earth. Copyright law stops the site from giving out links to manuals. You will have a PM in a minute.

Possibly but rule out everything else first before you think about an engine split. Oil - new and the correct level Chain - correctly adjusted Gear change lever - is it set correctly Clutch - Is this OK User error - is it just a technique thing when you start to fly. Can you mentally think of this when you ride the bike? When I change form bike to bike, I have to remember that the SV has a short gear change distance to flick up the gear lever and the TS has a much longer distance.

Cap off - it helps the water flow. You can empty the plastic water tank from the bottom of the tank. It is bled when the water stops. Don't forget to refill it with an anti freeze/summer coolant solution and water. Don't refill it with water only.

Bleed for the water is on the off side of the bike (right hand side) and is the bottom rear bolt of the water pump case Bottom left in this picture.

Click on google images and search for a DT125r. This will give you lots of examples of what each model should look like.

MX are the old skool air cooled ones. LC is Liquid cooled (has a radiator filled with water and a finless engine) and that title is normally used to distinguish them from the air cooled version.

3DB - 1988 DT125R

Wd40

Workshop questions in the workshop section please.

Just my opinion but an XT500 should just remain standard.

It normally denotes the model year. It is not scientific as you can have a model number that hasn't been registered until a year or so later.

Speedo ratios are set by the front wheel size. See if a ty has the same size rim as you can get these easily.

Same as the first 2 answers. Trailwings are good, got them on my 250.

Welcome back fella.

Right one is normally an engine split. The left hand ones can often be pulled out with the engine in the frame. I can't really see the bike very well on my iphone ( I am at work) but you should be able to do this in situ. I will know more when I. Get home. It you go to the projects section of the forum and look for my TS250 thread, there are some pictures of how the Suzuki one looks. Hopefully yours will be similar. As I said, I can't see too much at work but most strokers of this period are very similar.

Speedo - buy a vapor one. Number plate - get a standard one. Saves any hag. Tyres - even if the are not marked, I would consider getting some that will last a bit longer on Tarmac. Exhaust- as Blackhat said. You can anything fabricated but cost may be an issue. Generally - they do light kits for them. Here is a US example www.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=221218212113