DirtyDT

Its a barbed hosetail. Be careful with any measurements as I think they measure using the inside diameter. Also ideal if you have a broken airbox air pipe connection - the type molded on that snap off when someone has tried to pull off an air tube.

Hi and welcome to the forum. The best way to begin is to start a project thread. This will allow all of the posts - questions and answers - to be in one place on the forum. Rule number one is always to take as many digital photos as you can BEFORE you start stripping the bike down. Getting hold of a workshop manual is a must. Copyright laws do not allow the posting of links etc on the forum. Obviously a good selection of tools helps and use Plusgas for unseizing things, not WD40. Try and find some reliable sources for cross referencing parts - old bike parts are often shared across several models and it helps when searching for bits. Remember that US ebay often has parts not on UK ebay so log into the .com site and have a look. Identify what parts on the bike are rare. This means that you can keep a search for these parts going, just in case, and it will help you to remember which parts you need to protect in case you have to destroy a part in the strip down. Good luck. Identify which parts

Sending you a PM Lee. The TS insurance is up for renewal towards the end of the Month. I have a renewal quote from Carole Nash. Cheers.

Moved to workshop section.

Just been on a non residential course for the week. 9 to 5 and then 2 hours homework each evening. 2 exams. I am now knackered and looking forward to going back to work for a rest.

I thought NOVA only affected bikes imported before a certain date.

Sending my best wishes to him.

I still don't know why people are posting workshop questions in the bar but I am guessing the dealer is Arnolds.

I worked in Clipper Quay for a while.

Have a look at this bloke LINKY

I can't answer your question but welcome to the forum. I hope "the strip" is looking good today.

Just don't start it with no oil in it Grouchy. Other things are the fuel going off in the tank and gumming up the carb.

Did you really like your own post?

Before anyone buys a limited company please understand the legal implications of doing so. Buying one is the easy part however, understand the running and reporting of it first.

Or it turned over but didn't start (fire). Did you do the tappers correctly with the engine at the right part of the stroke. Did you confuse a metric feeler gauge with an imperial one? I am assuming you used a feeler gauge! Did you use the correct plugs with the same length, adjusted the gap and put the plug caps back on the plugs - on the right plugs that it so the firing order is maintained? When you say "funny noise" are we talking; A burp? A comedian? A grinding one? An air, burble, one? Or something else?

Mostly what I said in a previous post of yours Steve when you wanted to be a spaceman bike trader. Plus LINKY

Exhausts are more scientific than people give them credit for. Keep it at stock if you can or there will be a load of messing with the jetting of the carbs. Best to get it running standard and well before you tinker with anything non stock.

Each insurer will have different criteria. Some will require a brick building, or concrete, others will be happy with a wooden shed; providing all are locked. Best to ask when getting quotes.

You just need to find a local guy with a welder. I wouldn't expect to pay more than £30 for a good, neat, job. If you can get the box off it may be work trawling a few small repair shops and asking at the door if they can plate over what is needed.

That is plain wrong Noise

Hi and welcome to the forum.

I am locking this thread. Time to all chill and send out positive karma.

I head butted a pigeon at 40mph a year or so back. Snapped my visor and gave me concussion. The worst part was the horrible dust stuff that came off it. Tasted nasty. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

For the brake Look at the rear brake switch. There be 2 wires. See which one is live with the brake switch off. The other should be live with the switch on. Use a multimeter to test this. The wire that is not live with the switch off is the one that should go to the rear of the bike. Check the colour of this wire and find it at the rear of the bike. Use the multimeter again to test this is live with the switch on. This then connects to the rear light. The rear light fitting should have 2 wires, the other one is the earth. If you don't have a live to the rear brake switch then you need to sort this first. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

Dodgy gearboxes, second gear on some. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2