DirtyDT

Can't fix anything big Kev. Just another thought. Is the BB code button pressed or the html tickbox ticked? Just going to get a snapshot and post it up to help. Here we go. Can you try with the top left on on or off and the bottom one unticked

No worries. Lets hope a fellow DTR rider can help.

I don't know but I agree with taking the battery off first. I would use some spray cleaner and a rag and hope you don't get sticky keys.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Moved to workshop.

Good to know Lee. Just a quick update. I sent the scans of documents off last Monday by email. I received a letter this morning basically saying that all is fine and it had a NOVA reference number. Just over a week from start to finish. This should make it easier when I register it. Just to clarify, at the moment the bike would have fallen out of the NOVA process but I thought it wouldn't hurt to get an official letter.

Noise - I went in and changed the signature with no issues. Can you re-test to see if yours can be changed now please?

'twas just a thought. I can't do much at the moment as I am at work and no forum stuff allowed on the work laptop but if no one has looked by the time I get home I will have a look then.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

As Blackhat says, post up the first few bits of the frame number. The biggest differences with the monoshock ones were the side the oil tank is and if it has a square or round swing arm.

Last time I looked all was fine. Can I just check, you are trying to put the changes in the edit box and not the preview box? The edit box is below the preview box. I don't know if this helps.

Tools are so addictive......................................they should have a Government health warning on them.

Moved to workshop.

Sit on one. She will be able to touch the floor with both feet and not on tippy toes. I've got one. You can get lowering kits for them but she wont need it. I would have gone with a Duke monster but not for under a grand. The CB500 is a good contender.

100? And add another 50!

Chains wear and create loose and tight spots. You may have adjusted it at a tighter point and now it appears to be loose. Chains always need to be adjusted at their tightest spot. To find the right spot, you turn the rear wheel a little and test the movement at the midway point between the two sprockets. You do this several times at different points in the chain. Getting it wrong can snap the chain at worst or wear the bearings out prematurely at best. Do you know how old the chin is or how many miles it has done? It may be time to change it. Always change the sprockets when changing the chain. They also come in various quality's. I like x ring chains but on a smaller bike I would look at an O ring chains too.

Try a search for last years YOC thread. I think I put up some old google earth pictures of the normal place for the YOC camp.

Forget airbags or leg shields.

????????????????????? Get her an SV 650

No. Free camping too.

Got to agree with Ttaskie on Halfords tools - but only the professional range. Very good value for money. I have said it before but keep an eye out just after Christmas as they do have some sets at bargain prices. I wouldn't buy a toolbox with multi mixed set of tools in but their socket sets, screwdriver sets and ratchet spanners are very good. I can also recommend their red toolboxes with lockable drawers. Other than these I like the Draper make.

Good post but the new members section is for new members to say hello. Moved to the bar.

Having 2 threads about the same issue doesn't help things. I have locked this thread. Opps. I messed up here. I have unlocked this thread, as it has the history and replies on it, and locked the one that was just started. Carlo, got your PM and my mistake. Sorry.

Back to basics I think. You had a charge when running and before the new battery. It runs rough when more electrical load is put on it. Assuming nothing else has failed, I would be looking for a bad earth, a dodgy connector, a wire earthing randomly or a wire that has broken. All of these will give you intermittent electrical problems and depending if this is the fault can stop the bike from charging the battery or can drain the battery. If a fuse is looking a bit "wrong" then this needs to be investigated. I know fuses are manufactured cheaply nowadays but it sounds like it is getting hot. Only 4 reasons for that: 1 it is melting because it is too close to something getting hot when the engine runs 2 it is faulty or fractured 3 it is getting too much too much power going to it - so the charging system - and overheating 4 it is being shorted - wire or connector earthing issue. 1 and 2 are easy to diagnose. Assuming the charging volts are ok through the rev range as previously mentioned then 3 shouldn't be the cause unless it is intermittent. A dodgy charging system can cause this but I would eliminate option 4 first because it will be the cheapest to do. That is where I would start. Hook up a multimeter to the battery and monitor the battery volts when you use the switches. Include riding the bike with the multimeter on the tank if you can. See what kind of weirdness you are getting and what you did. Subject to the above not reaping any solutions then it would leave the charging system or reg/rec. There are 5th and 6th options but they involve Alien abduction and the bike being possessed so lets not go there, yet!

Hi and welcome Colin. This section is for new members to say hello. If you have a technical question it is best to put it into the workshop section. Although it doesn't help with your question, there is a thread here which explains what the forum is about -