DirtyDT

OK, I think we are getting closer Can I ask for final opinions on the following please? The options are: 1 Black text nothing on back 2 Black text with club logo on back 3 Red text with nothing on back 4 Red text with club logo on back And can you all indicate if the text should contain the 5th and 2014 parts please.

It's working for me on an iphone. Thanks Alex.

Is that "us" or "me" Kev? I wouldn't really want to carry a possible dozen T shirts to Squires Tommy. My new camping stuff is starting to arrive and is bigger than I thought. I am trying to keep the costs down and am passing on any discounts I can but if we print the rear of the shirts then the price will go up. I am happy to post serveral shits to one address for local collection (maybe yours and Drewps) and this would save about four quid for the pair. I am happy to take the year off but the 5th would need to come off too. Many events have people wearing old shirts, They are worn with pride and say "I was here in this year". The questions I need answering are: Are we printing the backs? Cheaper if not. Are we printing the "5th" and "2014" on the fronts? Are we printing the YOC club logo on the backs or just the web address? I may have to print it small due to the artwork resolution size. One we get a design I will start collecting numbers and actual costs. I should have already secured another 10% off, so that will help.

I would be worried at the image quality at the size it is, If used it may have to be half of that size due to pixel sizing. It may be better on the front left hand side and the front text put onto the back.

2 questions then; 1) Why is that Kev? 2) Is this what we what on the back?

I have PM'ed Alex so he will be aware soon.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Tidy looking bike.

Cheers Bippo, similar messages to me. I will let Admin know. It has been quiet on here this morning so lack of the app may have been frustrating to many who tried to pop in for a sneeky look while at work.

You may want to say hello in the new members section. People tend to be more supportive when that happens. If you post the first part of your VIN number we can probably tell you if it is a YA6. The armature is still solidly on the crank at the moment. I have tried heat, freeze, penetrating fluid, had a remover made, blind puller, brute strength and an angle grinder but it is still hanging on. I have put it to one side at the moment but I have 3 things still to try at the moment. These are; tapping out the centre armature bore and trying a larger remover; welding a nut onto the armature bore and tightening up a bolt the same way as a puller would work and ; cutting 3 grooves into the side of the armature, fitting a 3 legged hub puller which will be clamped to keep the legs in the grooves and then tightening this up. I hope this helps.

Is anyone having issues with their Tapatalk this morning?

As per Mervins answer. Filament gone in the stop & tail bulb and one of the switches is sticking on. i would guess the rear brake one. From the side of the bike, press the rear brake with your hand and you should see the switch being pulled a spring connected to the pedal. When you release the brake the switch should go back to immediately.

Get a quote for the work from them, not an estimate.

Are you talking about the Yamaha logo - tuning forks? I would have to get written permission for that.

I can't exactly match the font or colour but this is closer.

Hi and welcome. For pictures please see here

14, the switch, is normally by the front sprocket in the engine 62 will be the light in the dash. Is there anything showing the clutch and or sidestand switches and the wiring going back to headlight and ignition?

Suggestions from the thread made. I am not sure of the black text now as the artwork looks like faded and the black may be too harsh. Comments please? More details if we are going with this. Colour: Stone Green Material: Comfortable, casual and loose fitting, heavyweight. Made from 6.0oz, pre-shrunk 100% cotton. Double-needle stitched on the bottom and sleeve hems for extra durability. Sizing in Inches: S 36.5 - 38.5 M 40 - 42 L 43.5 - 45.5 XL 46.5 - 48.5 2XL 51.5 - 53.5 3XL 56.5 - 58.5 Front only print costs: Under 11 ordered £19.25 each including delivery to mainland UK (please ask for anything else). Over 11 ordered £ 17.83 each including delivery to mainland UK (please ask for anything else). Sizes 2XL or 3XL please add another £2.60 or go on a diet before you wear one. Extra discount at 26+ orders. Front and rear print costs: Under 11 ordered £24.40 each including delivery to mainland UK (please ask for anything else). Over 11 ordered £ 22.55 each including delivery to mainland UK (please ask for anything else). Sizes 2XL or 3XL please add another £2.60 please see above. Extra discount at 26+ orders. Note: I have added a fiver to each T shirt cost to cover postage to me and postage to you. I have passed on all the discounts so am getting nothing from this. Postage to you will be insured and signed for if in the UK. If you need Airmail I will get costs for you.

The sevice manual will have a wiring diagram in it (not the owners handbook). The neutral switch is normally just an earth wire, often blue in colour. This connects to the neutral light. It will also connect to any inhibitor. I am not familiar with your bike but often bikes have a single or duel circuit to stop the engine if in gear and with the side stand down. This is often linked to the cluch lever switch. Again I am not sure but normaly one inhibitor can be active only. An owners handbook will explain what inhibitors are fitted and when the bike should start or cut out. It is likely that the bike has a switch on the sidestand and on the clutch. If you have sen the neutral light on a few times I would suggest that there is a dodgy connection in the neutral light circuit to earth. This is often behind the headlight but you really need a wiring diagram to identify what to look for.

Sounds like they have done something to the inhibitor wiring which stops the bike going into gear with the stand down or without the clutch engaged. I an not sure but the bike probably has these linked. The lack of neutral light is confusing it. Is all of the wiring they messed with fixed properly as it could be a single earth not connected causing this.

If we are going for similar to the above with the tinternet address on it somewhere, and assuming that you don't mind me dealing with it, can I have a rough idea of numbers please? I am happy to do a one off purchase, pay for them and I can collect the money individually as I send them out. I will let people know the cost later. They will be supplied at the same price as they cost me plus the cost of posting on. If I do them; I will only be ordering once so if you dont ask for one when I ask for orders, you won't get one All the same colour All the same text All the same style You can pay when I receive them if that suits you better They will be at the same cost as I pay and I will pass any discounts on The only differences will be the sizes If you order one and don't pay, I will hound you. I am happy to pass the web details on to anyone who wants to do this and is more flexible but to be honest, I can't be ar5ed to start messing about. I am also happy to lay out a few hundred quid with the promise that I will get this back in bits and pieces and take the time and effort to post them out but it is not a career and I won't do repeat orders for this year. The above may sound a little harsh but I am happy to pass the responsibility on to someone more friendly.

It's never worried you before. You're not on "the turn" are you? I will mock up another when I get in from work with the suggestions. Looking at it now it may be better with black text also so it blends in. Not sure if I can get bars on the back but can put text on there if we wanted the same words. Any other suggestions please?

Cheers Mervin. I am aquring parts for the second (rough) one and the few bits I need for the good one at the moment.

The wiring wizard is building me a harness for the second RD at the moment too.