DirtyDT

Lucky it is only your hands. You have other parts where the shock would be even more painful. As OG says the HT will be the only shock to hurt unless, you are getting some kind of static buildup which is conducted in the wet and earths normally in the dry. This could allow static buildup through tyres or clothing. I would check the HT lead for cracks and melts, The spark plug cap for cracks or fit and the porcalin on the spark plug for cracks. If it is the HT then the bike will miss when you get a shock but I guess you would not notice this having the volts shooting up your arm. Little dave - I love Vegas.

Normally the fob holds the chip which is a passive transponder. It does not need power but can be recognised by proximity to a pick up which is normally around the ignition switch. Specialist auto electricians can program keys if the alarm fob has one (or a space for one) This is about £65 at your door. I have heard that people superglue the chip to the ignition switch but I would not recommend that. It would also remove one layer of security. The transponder could be glued to the alarm fob. Personally I would not mess about with it. I messed about with something similar on my sons Jeep once. I buggered it and it cost me £500 to get the jeep to a dealers and for them to fit and reprogramme a new ignition. Ouch.

What is wrong with just using your pants? That is what I do. I don't have any friends though. Bus rides are great, I always get a seat to myself!!

Hi, Greece is nice too. It just means that you have something great to look forward to when you hit the 18 mark. It still shows what a shambles the harmonised licences will be across the European States. Here is an extract from another site. Mopeds From the age of 14, children can ride a moped (variously known as a cyclomoteur, scooter, vélomoteur or Mobylette, the last being a trade name) with an engine capacity below 50cc capable of a maximum speed of 45kph (28mph) – despite the contorsions of riders attempting to eke an extra kph or two from their machines. Mopeds must be registered and riders without a full licence must take a test ( brevet de sécurité routière/BSR) consisting of a theory paper ( attestation scolaire de sécurité routière/ ASSR1), taken at school, and five hours of practical training, four and a half of which must be on public roads, with a driving school (at a cost of around €75). Third-party insurance is necessary, and a metal tab with the owner’s name ( plaque de nom) must be attached to the handlebars. Mopeds aren’t permitted on motorways, and riders must use cycle paths where provided. Two-stroke petrol ( mélange deux-temps) is available at most petrol stations, although an electric version of the classic Solex (last manufactured in the 1980s, although imitations are still built), known as the E-solex, may be available in the near future. Mopeds can be lethal in the wrong hands (most teenagers have as much road sense as hedgehogs and rabbits) and hundreds are killed each year. If you have a child with a moped, it’s important to impress upon him the need to take care (particularly in winter) and not take unnecessary risks, e.g. always observe traffic signs and signal before making manoeuvres. Other Motorbikes Sixteen-year-olds can ride a motorcycle of up to 125cc (officially known as a moto légère), for which they require a licence A1. The requisite theory test, the ASSR2, can be taken at school. Eighteen-year-olds can begin ‘progessive training’ ( formation progressive) for a full motorcycle ( motocyclette or moto) licence ( A), although they’re limited to bikes below 34 horsepower until the age of 21. If you aren’t at school, you can take an attestation de sécurité routière ( ASR), which takes the place of the ASSR1 and 2, through an adult education provider such as GRETA. A car licence ( entitles you to ride a motorcycle of up to 125cc, provided you’ve been driving for at least two years (although you must retake the theory exam if you’ve held a licence for more than five years without riding a motorcycle). However, it’s recommended that you take a course of riding lessons with a moto-école, which costs around €300. So the differences between the Frence bike laws and ours are huge. I would guess that this is the same across the EU. Looking at the above we could get 14 year old on mopeds and not being able to ride anything over 34bhp until you are 21. That is unless the new bike test hasn't killed or put off all prospective bikers!!

When you get off the ferry all the foreign reg cars shoot up the M2 or M20 with the speed camera's flashing so I guess we don't chase them when they go home. In France you get stopped and empty your wallet. That doesn't count the toll roads that used to start south of paris but now are right by the ports. I am not moaning though. Drove to Brittany last year from Dover in the car and going to Normany this year by car. Fabulous. Biking in france is fantastic.

Hi, It is not good news. There are several licences, mopeds without licence, small bikes that are licenced and then over 18. Maybe others as well. It does look like the minimum age is 18 for anything decent. The actual relevant laws are below but look for the caveat that says under 18's don't count. Mutual recognition 1. The principle Article 1(2) of Directive 91/439/EEC stipulates that all driving licences have to be mutually recognised within the European Union. Where the holder of a valid driving licence acquires "normal residence" in a Member State other than that which issued the licence, the host country has to recognise the licence. Directive 80/1263/EEC laid down a period of one year during which the exchange had to be carried out by the authorities of the state of residence. This obligation has been abolished since 1 July 1996, the date of entry into force of Directive 91/439/EEC. It is still possible to exchange licences but it has to be based on a purely voluntary action on the part of the licence holder. At the time of the exchange, the Member State in which the holder has acquired normal residence issues a Community model licence of the corresponding category or categories, without the need for a theoretical or practical examination. Authorities must however check that the licence is valid. 2. Exceptions Article 1(3) of Directive 91/439/EEC establishes an exception to this general principle of mutual recognition. It is noted that « Where the holder of a valid national driving licence takes up normal residence in a Member State other than that which issued the licence, the host Member State may apply to the holder of the licence its national rules on the period of validity of the licence, medical checks and tax arrangements and may enter on the licence any information indispensable for administration. » With regard to the period of validity of driving licences, Directive 91/439/EEC therefore allows Member States to apply their national provisions. In practice, the validity arrangements vary from one Member State to another. This means that a different period of validity, shorter for example, can be applied to the holder of a licence, in the event of change of residence. With regard to the interval between medical examinations, this has not been harmonised by Community legislation. In the majority of the Member States, it coincides with the period of validity. Driving licences issued by a non-member country and recognised by a Member State, are not recognised reciprocally in a systematic manner, even in the eventual case that the licence has been exchanged for a Community model in the meantime. It is therefore advisable to contact the competent national authorities. Member States are not obliged to recognise driving licences issued to persons aged under 18. Minimum ages Article 6 of Directive 91/439/EEC lays down minimum age conditions for obtaining a driving licence. 16 years: for sub-category A1 for sub-category B1 18 years: for category A; however, access to the driving of motorcycles with a power exceeding 25 kW or a power/weight ratio exceeding 0,16 kW/kg (or motorcycles with sidecars with a power/weight ratio exceeding 0,16 kW/kg) shall be subject to a minimum of two years' experience on motorcycles with lower specifications under an A licence; this requirement as to previous experience may be waived if the candidate is at least 21 years old, subject to the candidate's passing a specific test of skills and behaviour; for categories B, B+E for categories C, C+E and subcategories C1, C1+E, without prejudice to the provisions for the driving of such vehicles in Council Regulation (EEC) 3820/85 of 20 December 1985 on the harmonization of certain social legislation relating to road transport; 21 years: for categories D and D+E and subcategories D1, D1+E, without prejudice to the provisions for the driving of such vehicles in Regulation (EEC) 3820/85. Directive 91/439/EEC specifies that Member States may derogate from the minimum age requirements of laid down for categories A, B and B+E and issue such driving licences from the age of 17 years, except in the case of the provisions for category A laid down in the last sentence of the first indent of paragraph 1 B Member States may refuse to recognise the validity in their territory of driving licences issued to drivers under 18 years of age. On harmonised licences The harmonisation law will come into practice in 2013 – when newly-issued driving licenses must be of the new credit-card-like permit – while the deadline for the replacement of all old driving licenses will not be until 2033. Given, for example, that French law says you start with 12 points and then they take points off and we do it the other way round do we try and get as may points as possible before it starts? Also does that mean that they will ban 14 to 16 year olds from riding so we can get french moped spares cheap as they will not be able to ride OR we will have 14 year olds riding around the streets?? It is going to get messy. Sorry to P' you off. There is something special about geting off the ferry and riding in France. Sorry!!

This is true as I had a 250 on L plates. But don't forget that the technology was not there either. The disc brakes did not work in the wet (to such a degree that I saw stickers on the forks saying "braking may be impaired in the wet"). Also the tyres were as hard as ceramic. Always an interesting ride on a 2 stroke 250 twin in the wet. There must be a lot of people walking around today who owe their lives to good tyres and brakes on moden bikes. That being said, a test and then a hayabusa is not a good idea.

Parcel farce are collecting it tomorrow to go back. I could always put a little gungum in the slot if it happens with the new one over time as this is a one piece tail pipe and apart from drilling out the rivets and sealing there is not a lot I can do. I am suprised that there is such a little choice of exhausts, especially seeing how many DTs are still around. There is a guy on ebay at the moment selling a batch of 5 as one lot. Luck b*stard.

Hi JimR, The two parts were sourced from different suppliers but were both "Big one's". They fitted on the bike and together perfectly however the picture shows where it was blowing. Not through the pop rivets but between the pipe and can.

Hi all, Just a quick update. I got the "big one" tail pipe yesterday. I one I ordered from MandP on 17th of the month! So happy as larry and with the sun still shining I filled the bike with engine oil and bolted on the new expansion pipe and tail pipe. a pint of petrol with a spash of 2 stroke and I was ready to go. As the carb had been stripped and rebuilt I splashed a little fuel in the spark plug hole and gave it a couple of kicks. It fired up and died having used the fuel in the cylinder. A few kicks later and it was running. A quick adjust of the tickover screw and the choke in and it was ticking over nicely. I checked the 2 stroke fuel line and it was full of oil. Into gear and out with the cluch and it would not pull. A quick clutch adjustment and around the garden I went. As it was a non runnner I was more than happy so off the bike with it engine running and I notice that there is exhaust fumes coming from the front of the tail pipe. A quick look and placing my hand over the front of the can, It is blowing where the pipe meets the can. So a bit peeved. An email to MandP and a phone call this morning and they are collecting the pipe tomorrow. I will let you know how it goes.

You could be right. I think there was a bidding war between you tube and youve been framed. Maybe the government needs to raise the tax on bike tests to account for all the additional hospital bills. I can't wait for the first person to take a centre to court for negligence. No win no fee anyone?

MP's (They have conned us all)

Beast

Now they can watch you. I met up with my eldest son yesterday. His mate had just completed the "all in one week" test. He went out and brought a GSXR750. We were saying that it was a bad move. My son texed me today. His mate had come off and broken his foot. He is best man at a wedding on Thursday. They are not kids. My eldest is 27 this year. BBC info on the new test. Here

There was a skip lorry blocking the road so I had to wait. Shame really I used to be a CBT examiner in London a long while ago. We had a guy who took his test and was a long while getting back in sight of the examiner. When asked he told the examiner that there was an accident so he had to wait. What really happened was he jumped a zebra crossing, got pulled over and nicked. and carried on after getting the paperwork from the police. He passed though.

I think they are still going with the new style. Maybe so they can injure as many bikers as they can before the cars drivers can. I just rode around the block twice. Official video here Here

Hi, Good to see another DT175 bike. I think the Clymer manual is the one to go for. Not specific to this bike. This one I think. Here. They are available on your side of the pond. It will run without a battery. Just the mag to the CDI to the coil. There seems to be a lot of variations for wires on these bikes. I have a 5 wire mag and 6 wire CDI so I can tell you what you need to do in this senario.

Very nice bike but I saw the thread title and thought you were talking about my bike.

Thanks guys, I do not have any engine oil in it at the moment. Too nice to go to Halfords. I asked the other half to push me around the garden on it (I was going to put it in gear) But she declined. Tut!

Cheers JimR, I was going to add a splash of 2 stroke to the to the tank. By just putting in a small amount of fuel I am looking to get out of the over oil problem. Cheers.

R squared

Cheers WF, I am not riding it but want to get it running OK. I have taken off so much, cleaned and rebuilt them that I will be idling it while I adjust the tick over, look for leaks etc. I will get as close to that as possible but I am going to put a pint of petrol in and add the two stroke. It's a shame that 2 stroke does not smell like it did in the good old days.

Hi all, I have taken the oil pump off of my DT as part of replacing the 4 two stroke oil pipes. 2 to the pump and 2 away from the pump. I have bled the oil pump as advised by OG in a previous thread. I am pumping the kick start over with my hand with the plug out and the oil is feeding from the pump to the junction that is pressed into the crankcase. I can see this as I brought the clear oil pipe. Even if I hold the oil pump open and "Hand kick" the bike over, the oil is very slow going towards the carb. I have got to about 1 inch from the junction and then there is about another 6 inches of pipe before the oil his the carb. Rather than keep pumping the kick start with my hand would it be better to mix a pint of premix so it runs safely until the oil is fed to the carb? If this is recommended what ratio should I use? Thanks

You say you check the voltages but with a voltmeter of just a bulb and two wires to check continuity? (that power is getting there). Will it jump from a car? If so then the battery or battery connections are possibly at fault. Is the engine seized? Take out the spark plugs. check where the piston is in one cylinder. Rock the bike in gear with the ignition off. Check the piston position again to make sure the engine turns over freely so the piston should have moved. Out of gear and in neutral. Will it turn over using the bike battery with the plugs out? If it does then the battery is OK. it is from the starter to the battery. Get a cable of a similar or higher spec. to the one to the starter. Not the one to the Remove the red +ve cable from the battery but leave the black one connected. Touch the cable from the +ve of the battery to the +ve on the starter motor. Remember that this is now a live terminal so be careful not to touch it to any part of the bike. Any part.. If it turns over then the battery and starter motor are ok. Clean the relay terminals, the battery terminals and starter motor terminals and try again. If not then it is probably the relay. The relay is just a big switch so the starter button to the relay uses smaller spec cables and the battery to the relay to the starter motor uses bigger cables. Make sure that a competent person does this and it is done safely. I can not be held responsible but you can narrow it down using the above methods.

Helmet