DirtyDT

Good luck!

They get a good score in "Bike" magazine tyre comparison table.

I don't know but there is some good reading, that may help, on the 125 here LINKY

Hi and welcome. There are different sections at the bottom of the home page for different types of bikes. An interesting array of bikes mentioned in your profile. A Spondon and a 7/12, nice.

As above but remember to use the correct lubes/paint etc for the right areas. Don't just get a huge tin of WD40 and think it will cure all.

Hi and welcome. I had to laugh that you felt you had to explain that your partner was female but didn't say what your gender was I do like TDM's but a bit big for me, I feel.

You are on your own mate. I know which one would look better on your face!

A good plan Foamy. All parts seem to be expensive so gently does it.

Possibly. It depends if you want to use it later to save cash or just a make do. Some have small drift pins in them which need pushing out but the metal barrel will seperate from the plastic surround somehow. A locksmith may be able to knock up a key by taking the barrel to them. You need to sit and think, do you want to buy a new one in the future - if so you can damage this one. Or do you want to try and get a key to fit this one - if so try a locksmith if you are not sure, first. It is difficult to tell over the interweb. There is a complete lockset on German evilbay LINKY

That picture is hurting my eyes. There is normally a tab on the plastic surround that clicks into the outer metal of the barrel. The whole lot should slide out somehow. BTW there are a lot of bits for sale on US evilbay. If you screw the turbo there is one here for sale LINKY

Hi and welcome Lee.

I was thinking cling film wrap.

Very good advice. You don't want a turbo vane flying out at 100k revs, do you?

I've tried a soft bag on mine but I coudn't see where I was going. I just try and be careful but they get spattered with fly's (and in my case, a pigeon) but I don't have a solution.

Wemoto seem to have some bits for the Turbo. I doubt that you would be able to get a key cut without a key number from Yamaha due to the bikes age. If you cant get a new barrel cheap, I would get a key that fits and then take apart the barrel and remove some pins until it turned. this will then "fix" this until you get one that works properly. There is a blank key thread HERE

Well done Foamy. I was scared just looking at the pictures. It should look nice once it is washed It could be a good project but don't scrimp on the important bit as if something major goes you will sticking back on evilbay in double quick time. A great classic and the number plate with "Coburn & Hughes" on it brought back a few memories from way back before you were born. Get lots of Plusgas, and then get lots more....................... good luck.

Whens that, leaving work No cred with the vegans of this world. Just watch out for dropped portions of chips. Should make for interesting handling if the turbo kicks in on a dropped portion If you can do a good restore, it should be a very good classic to run.

I think Muslims have to be buried within 24 hours or before the sun sets.........something like that. At sea so there can be no grave to treat as a shrine.

If I change the brakes for the first time on an unknown bike I always change the brake fluid. After that I tend to just bleed them.

Is it a mono?? or a twin shock? I did read the title. Do Hagon do new ones?

Usually when you fit new pads you need to push the pistons back into the caliper a little due to the new pads not being worn. This said, it is surprising that the new pads fitted easily. It does sound like a fluid issue. You will need to bleed the brake to get any air out and get the pads close to the disk. not too hard to do mut you will need a bleed hose (a plastic pipe), a container for the old fluid, a spanner for the bleed nipple and some brake fluid. You may need a screwdriver if the rear brake fluid reservoir has a cap that has a screw down fitting. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the bleed nipple as they can shear off and make sure you have the correct brake fluid (DOT rating). Loosen the nipple, fit the bleed hose, open the fluid reservoir, fill with fluid, open the nipple, push down the brake pedal and tighten the nipple with the pedal still down. Do this a few times keeping an eye on the fluid reservoir and topping up when necessary. The brake should start to get some bite and when it does give the pedal a couple of pumps with the nipple closed. Tighten the nipple up properly, check the reservoir is full to the top line and replace the reservoir cap. Test the brake. If is is fine then the brakes are done and you then need to check that the brake light switch is turning on at the correctly and adjust is necessarily.

Maybe a good option for a custom build but not a lot of space saving on my standard battery size and twice the price. I think I would rather go for a decent number 2 to save the weight. They do look funky though!

One down, a hundred million to go.

Sad day for boxing fans. Clay certainly remembered his "hammer".

I really enjoyed it, although I didn't intend to watch it. Should I get a Kate & Wills tea mug form evilbay?