DirtyDT

This download may help LINKY

Plusgas before an impact driver.

Just a higher octane fuel mix, impractical unless you are doing a short run. There is a thread here LINKY with a link to a French firm that sell a kit of carb bits and a different sprocket. I would not recommend drilling jets BTW. Since you have a custom set of pipes on it, it does seem practical to look at a re-jet. Never owned a Virago but changing the gearing and re-jetting could be a cheaper, effective, option.

4 solutions to getting more speed. I could give you a tow on the 12th Strap a turbo on it. Nitrous kit. Nitromethane fuel mix. Bank loan. I wouldn't recommend any, especially the last one.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm Castrol R

Happy Birthday Merv. All together....................... 21 today, 21 today..................... OK maybe not

Hi and welcome Koos. It sounds like a bargain.

Welcome to the forum Alf. Remember - Better late than never.

Have a look at this thread NEV LINKY

:lol: It can get you like that.

This is what my TS wiring is like at the moment..................... Not my work I hasten to add

Thats why you need to test the switch using the matrix and use the appropriate tags. so, for example, when the switch is off you need to find the 2 tags that have continuity. The plan is to find the tag that in P1 has continuity, at P2 doesn't have any continuity (or not used)and in P3 has continuity with a different tag to P1. This is the green tag. Then green and P1 continuity is the black wire and P3 and continuity is the yellow wire.

At 10 O/c yes but what about 2 O/c? this would determine if the grey is parking lights or not. Have a look at my earlier post about wire colours. as black/green off. green isolated on. green/yellow on and lights. that leaves the grey I would guess.

So true!

Ah but the TT starts tomorrow :D LINKY

Hi and welcome. Some intro that! Maybe the reason you haven't posted for the month is that it took you that long to write the intro A very good intro though.

Hi and welcome to the forum. If you are a classic, I am deceased.

I prefer a Rich tea or a nice Garibaldi

So looking at the drawing green is the live, black is the earth out and yellow is the lights. Not sure about Grey at the moment. The bike should start with the wires not touching. touch black and green and the bike should stop. Run a fused line or bulb across the green and yellow to see if the lights work. An old indicator is good for this. One wire from the indicator to the green and yellow. The bike may have to be running and make sure the bulb voltage is correct so 6v or 12v whatever the bike is.

Ok. So off, on and something else (maybe side or parking light). Is/does the key come out at 2O/c? Next get the switch and draw up a matrix so; P1 P2 P3 along the top and down the side write; 1/2 1/3 1/4 1/5 1/6 2/3 2/4 2/5 2/6 3/4 3/5 3/6 4/5 4/6 5/6 which are all the permutations. then test each one for continuity so p1 on the key and see if there is a circuit between tabs 1 and 2. Work down the list and then do the same for P2 and then P3. After that see which wires are live. Can you start the bike at the moment without the key?

What positions does the ignition have that have electrics? On off park lights etc If just on and off it would just be an earth through it.

AFC-50 tends to attract muck so, whilst it does coat and protect, it leaves everything with a coat of muck and you will spend a long time cleaning it off. Especially if you ride during the winter. If you are also looking for a great bike cleaner, look at S100. It is the bogs danglies! LINKY. Their chain cleaner is great too!

A lot of people swear by AFC-50. I prefer GT 85. and it smells nice too. LINKY I tend to use GT 85 for lubing and coating and plusgas for freeing up. WD40 is for getting off tar, stickers and marker pen.

No problems OG. I have the week off and will get it stripped down as much as I can. I am tempted to put the spare engine in and see it it runs. The plan is to use the bottom end (cases at least) off the original engine and the later engine top end. The spare engine is off an ER model and should just slot in. The carb I have is off the later model too. I am going to stick to this set up unless a bargain turns up. The main differences are that the carb is different and the throttle is different. My model should have 2 throttle cables to the carb so a push-pull and the later one just has one to the carb. The inlet on the carb is slightly larger so I will have to use an early ER air pipe to the airbox or get a ram air filter. I am not looking to be purist at the moment. I just want to ride the thing!!

But they are good things What about "Pine forest" or "Dolphin fart" smelling ones then?