DirtyDT

Well that has reduced the value by another £100.

Unfortunately it doesn't work like that. As an example, you buy a bike for £5k and fit £2k of luggage and pipe to it. The bike stands you in at £7k. The "book" value of the bike is £5k. You haven't told the insurers about the pipe or luggage as someone said you didn't need to. The worst happens and your bike gets nicked. You phone the insurers and, after weeks of them trying to rip you off as you want to claim for the extras and they say that validates the insurance, they say, OK we will pay out and send you a cheque for £5k, which is the book value. This might be for an admin fee and to supply and fit restrictors should they need replacing due to damage or theft.

Good call Merv. I brought a selection of connector blocks from kojaycat a while ago just to see how they fitted with the original fittings. I can report that size wise they are very good but the latch can cause some problems. The easy thing is to remove the old connector by springing out the old connectors by pushing the holding tag and then use the new connector block. Often no wire cutting is required. Ideal if you want to make some new wiring or just tidy up chocolate or snap blocks. I bought a selection of these LINKY

Different for all insurers. That is where the "comparisons" are limited. I use them for a guide then pick up the phone whith the quote in hand. I have declared things like the heated grips, double bubble screen and crash bungs on the SV. The reason was the way the question was worded. I have given a list of mods but the only one of interest to them was the exhaust. Normal questioning went some thing like this; Them "Does it affect performance?" Me " I don't know I am not an engineers" Them "What is the value?" Me "£380" Them "I will just talk to the underwriter" 2 minutes pass Them "That isn't a problem but we will increase the value of the bike and the insurance will be repairs back to standard specification. Is that OK?" Me " Why would you want to repair the bike with an OEM part that costs £700 when you can get a different silencer for £380?" Me "Don't worry, thats fine" The simple thing is, if the bike gets damaged I know that the repairer has £700 and I will tell them what exhaust I want. Thinking about insurance, the SV costs about £100 a year fully comp for a value of £2500 maximum payout. That is a 25 year break even risk. I would guess all of the young riders are supplementing my premiums, so thanks guys

Hi and welcome. Looking at the last picture reminded me of Evel Knievel, back in the day.

I came home from school and my family had moved house, without a forwarding address.

Hi and welcome. Great intro and don't worry about the MZ, they are still bikes.

This should be the forum's mantra. It is amazing how expensive it can get by trying all the bits it could be.

You need to ask your insurers as policy's vary. It is really called "knock for knock". It means that both parties are blamed and the insurers get to bump up both parties insurance premiums as they both have a "blame" accident. Also they only pay their own claim liabilities so if both vehicles are TPF&F they pay nothing. Good ploy eh? If you have fully comp then they will pay out your claim only. Just a comment, I don't advocate this and am not suggesting it however, If an insurer tries for "knock for knock", and both parties only have TPF&F, one party should say it is their fault, even if it is not, just to get one insurer to pay out for one vehicle.

I don't have any friends so I am here a lot.

:lol: I guess sometimes honesty is not the best policy.

Hi Joe. Welcome to the forum. Great etiquette by the way. Ahhhhh, now that could be a problem

Hi and welcome Buzzer. XT500............... Very nice.

Are the plugs wet with fuel? Is there a spark? Have you emptied the tank and put fresh fuel in it? Have you changed the plugs? Get some easy start, take the air filter out, squirt and turn over? If you get a splutter you are part way there. I would guess carbs at this stage.

No problems. If you want to hang around the forum go to the newbie section and say hello.

So like this? LINKY I suggest you go into your local Yami dealer, tell them you need a front brake light switch for the XT125 x '09 and they should be able to bring a picture of what you need on the computer. I would guess £15 to £20.

Granbys will have one or be able to order one. What year is the bike?

Welcome and very nice. I agree about the wheels.

The damaged thread is probably not on the lever but on the mounting bracket. If it is too far gone you will need to change that. Not a cheap option. I would not use glue. Is it anything like this LINKY

No. Buying a new switch will not cure the problem as the switch is working. Do you have a bolt that will fit in where the old bolt was or is the thread on the lever too far gone?

Firstly I suggest you read this LINKY Then I would determine if the switch or the bolt is broken. If the switch still operates using your fingers then it seems like it is the mounting bolt. You need to get this out first. If you can not get it out you may need to replace the part that it is screwed into. If the switch doesn't work with your fingers and the mounting bolt is OK you need to get and fit a new switch. It will be the front brake light switch for your model bike and year. Call Granby's LINKY and tell them what you need, pay and they will post it to you. The bike should have 2 brake light switches, one in the front brake switch (which is what you seem to have a problem with, and there will be a rear brake light switch connected by a spring to the rear brake pedal. By disconnecting the wires to the front switch the rear brake light switch will do all of the work (if applied) and the brake light will appear to work properly. This will get you out of a situation where you may need to ride the bike to a safe area without the light being constantly on. It will not pass an MOT without the 2 switches working and it will be not compliant with the legal regulations however people have ridden their bikes like this. I am not suggesting you do this nor am I advocating that you ride the bike until properly fixed.

To get "a" number. Using Firefox. Log in. Go to the bottom of the home page and it will show you you are online. Hover the mouse over your name and at the bottom left of the screen it will show a link. In this link is a number and this is your unique database membership number. It is not a professional membership number nor anything except how you are referenced on the forum database. It, technically, is your Yamaha Owners Club unique number. I would use it with caution however, what is the difference between any other club and this one (It has club in the title) and you have paid your £10 so can show you are a "Professional" member of the club. If I started a club, got some cheap cards printed and wrote a membership number on it, would this be any different. Just make sure that they are not looking for any affiliations to a "recognised" club like, as mentioned, the BMF.

Yes, I have a suggestion. Could I suggest you read this LINKY. I would then theorise that your question would evolve from where it is.

Well done Drewps. I do think the club needs a lifestyle guru to show you all how to smile though .

Some German stuff is expensive but there are still some bargains to be had. I brought some DT clocks there, in MPH, for virtually nothing and they were going for £130 here. I got a NOS head for the TS for peanuts from German ebay and to be honest I have never had a problem with anything I have brought from there (I just hope the SV speedo rotor works now) . The problem is that idiots people will buy loads of crap. As an example have a look HERE breakers want more for a used speedo cable than you can buy a new pattern part for. How does that work? I had a GT250 ramair in 1978 but I can't wait to get the TS on the road TBH.