DirtyDT

Bring it on! Me and him, outside, now! (I just hope it isn't a pie eating contest)

I popped down to Cambridge earlier - picked up a £50 parking ticket whilst I was there. Came back via the B676 off the A1 to Melton Mowbray. Definitely a hero or zero road. I am sure there will be a few fuel sucking country miles on the route.

........anyway, the Dragstar came with 36" wide bars..........

Great stuff Andrew. Tappets, carb clean/swap, air filter and check the plug in it is the correct one - would be my first jobs.

I thought you would come up the A6. You can knock for me on the way if you want to see if I can play out and we can ride the A60 to Mac D's

Do you need a "R"? Look at the FZ and MT models.

I'd pick an R6.

Arn't you coming with Andrew, Finnersz and I? We can keep the speed down if it's too much

Mervin, they are getting worse but it did make me laugh!

Hi and welcome to the forum.

That looks very good.

Doesn't your other SR have a battery?

Is it going to Squires Andrew?

Wow that sound scientif, sienceific er hard. I have only just put the rubbers back on and that was tough enough. Carb balancing part of Sundays jobs to do. If I get enough time, I might try and get the brakes working before I go to Squires on it.

Cheeky bas........! The TS was a lot worse the year before that! Even I didn't think is was going to make it but "who dares wins Rodney" what's the worst that could happen?

Cheers. I wish I had known you make them. I like to have a few jars of stainless nuts, bolts and washers hanging about and recently topped up with a couple of mega packs. Not cheap, I think the bits I brought came to about £60 and I always run out of the sizes I need. I could go for a tub of M6 in various lengths as these seem to be the most popular size on a Bike. I know the set screw name but thought throwing things like japanned in was enough

It doesn't bother me. I thought you wanted to give it a go anyway - assuming I get it back together on Sunday, the 4 days of shakedown testing doesn't flag up anything too scary and the pistons and rings don't disintegrate.

My new bike came with a 2 year warranty. If something goes wrong with it in that period, it goes back to them. If I had a concern with it I would take it back and discuss it with them. If you get bad service then don't use them again. Building a rapport with a main dealer, or two, pays dividends. Just buying a few bits a year from them can help them stay in business and will help any further purchases in the future. When I brought the FZ I spent more time taking to the owner about the YA and he has an original picture of one on the showroom wall because his parents, who ran the shop before him, used to sell them back in the 1960's and that has been passed down.

Maybe we need to get some photos next weekend of the waaaaaah faces of riders when they hit the powerband?

Yeh but if you looked like me then anything would be an improvement. My office is only a few yards from maxfax (maxillofacial) anyway. I could just pop in and ask for a "johnny depp".

And learn some of the "magic" words!

Modern jap bikes normally use metric nuts and bolts. Bolts are the long bits with the threads, nuts are the bits with the hole in. There are various heads (that's the bit on the top of the bolt that does not have any thread). These include: hex, counter sunk etc They come in various metals and finishes such as: jappaned, high tensile, stainless etc Bolts normally have 2 measurement and the description tells you what that is. Often this is something like: M6x20 or M12x50. Mostly sizes M4, M6, M8, M12 and M14 are used. Some bolts are special sizes. The M6, M12 etc is the measurement across the thread. M6 is smaller than M8 which is smaller than M10 etc. Often M6 size is used for crankcase cover bolts as a guide. the second part: 20, 50 etc is the length of the bolt measured from the BOTTOM of the head in mm. This means that a: M6x100 would be skinner than a M10x50 but would be twice as long in the threaded part. A M8x45 and a M12x45 would be different thicknesses but the thread would be the same length. if you get all that, the last part is the thread. The thread can be different although they normally work to a set standard. Threads can be described as fine, 1.00, 1,25 etc and often go up in increments of .25 Normally the size of the bolt defines the thread, but not always and this is why sometimes a loose nut you found does not fit on a bolt you have. Thread measurement is known as "pitch". The last thing about threads are the length they go up the bolt shaft, Some are threaded all the way, and some are not. You can get gauges with holes in to measure the M8, M10 etc part and the thread pitch. An example is shown here LINKY I think that is about it. I have to go and do some work now but you should now be able to work out what you have and what you need. .

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Great stuff OT. I got 2 lots of agreed value confirmation from them today for the RD and TS. See you next week.