DirtyDT

LINKY

Have you checked the spark plug? It is possible that the choke needs to be shut off either earlier or later.

Cheers for the info. They are still scrubbing in but with the 85 miles I have put on them so far, they do seem to be quite good. Mind you that is compared with an almost bald rear Avon VP2 supersport.

Hi and welcome to the forum Marcos. Getting chilly in the UK.

Hi Jon. Welcome to the forum.

Hi and welcome to the forum Fredrik.

I had "gusty winds" this morning. Still rode the bike.

Cheers John. Is there another TS 250 project thread starting?

Most sites are just links to links to get traffic through their sites. Please remember that most, if not all, workshop manuals have a copyright and links to anything with a copyright is not allowed on the forum. This is due to the site owner being liable for copyright infringements and may lead to being extradited to the USA and held at guntantmo bay without a trial for 30 decades. I made some of this up but no links to copyright materials please. It will be removed.

Thanks........................That's the best compiment I have had today. Very true and it cost £100 to replace just the swingarm bolt and bearings. Possibly but I save a fortune on cleaning products. I would recommend S Doc 100 cleaner. I agree. Always lube your chain with good quality chain lube. Not sure about that. I change my underwear at least once a month whether they need it or not! I can't argue with that.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Just got a pair of Bridgestone BT023's for the SV. Anyone else using this tyre?

Wash twice - once when you have just brought it and secondly when you are going to sell it. Change the oil and filter twice a year or 6k miles. Service it the same times as you change the oil. Only use oem oil filters. Check often the bits that wear - brakes, bearings, tyres, chain & sprockets. How frequently is down to you so pick somewhere on the OCD to lazy spectrum and use that as a guide. Don't grease anywhere it is dangerous - tyres and brakes do NOT need greasing. Nor do nylon coated cables as it makes them swell. See the bike as something you should enjoy but are probably not going to keep forever. Check/change the antifreeze and brake fluid every 2 years. Check the battery as frequently as you can be bothered to but don't be surprised if it is not checked and the bike fails to start. Try and buy a bike off someone who is anal. You get more fun out of it when you abuse it. Try to wear tyres out on both edges, not just the centre. They are expensive so get your money's worth out of them. Spend any saved maintenance money on fuel. It is for riding not an object d'art - unless it is a Ducati 916. Loads more wisdom's from the "house of the dirty dt" but I am at work so I need to go and save a few people before rushing off to get some tread on my quite worn tyres this pm.

Most cans give you a little bit more BHP. They also tend to save a little weight and sound better (very important). K&N filters are alleged to give you a bit more boost due to a better air flow to the engine. These changes can affect the power output and may require rejetting. You should inform your insurer that you have these mods. Welcome to the fourm by the way.

Never more than twice a year for me. Always use a good quality oil that is meant for bikes and an OEM filter (if you have one). I like Rock oil Guardian semi synthetic. I disagree with dt502001 about car engine oil use. Just my opinion but I would not use it. I also disagree with using different grades for different seasons. Just the way it is.

With the winter coming it is best to keep an eye on the battery anyway or change it for some extra reassurance. A bike will normally be easier to start during the day as the ambient temperature will normally be higher. I am guessing that it is turning over but just not catching. A service wouldn't hurt. Welcome to the forum.

Did you specify a time to pay? You shouldn't need to but in the "my ebay" section under the sold link in the left hand menu there should be a link that says "send invoice" of something like that. You can also ebay message the buyer and ask.

You really need to see what the issues are before looking to fit alternative parts. Some footrests just bolt on so it could be just loose bolts as Airhead said. It could be that bolt holes have elongated. Both would be easier fixes than trying to fit a non standard part. If it is a welding job then an MOT tester would be happier with that than a cobbled alternative.

I think Carole Nash does a 6 wheel policy. Insurance NBC is not normally transferable between bikes and cars but there is often a discount if you can show road experience by the use of a different mode of transport.

Hi and welcome to the forum jay. I am sitting in an office in Nottingham as I type this.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Saves me a job then.

Doesn't look right. I would change 13, 15 and 18's in the link. LINKY

If the chain link has been peened on by a gorilla then you may get 2 tight spots, when the link hits the front and rear sprocket. The o rings on this link may also fail for the same reason. Otherrandom faults. Rear wheel on wonky Rear sprocket warped Front sprocket moving in and out on the driveshaft (nut loose)

I pay more for the TS than I do for the SV. The TS has the benefit of full recovery and agreed value at about £113 a year fully comp. The 535 is around 44hp. and a v star 650 about 33hp. Have a look here LINKY

+1 for the battery plus I would clean up all of the terminals from the battery to the starter and both ends of the earths on the battery (earth terminal to wire and earth wire to frame). After that I would check that your regulator isn't leaking current to the earth. This assumes that the bike doesn't have a faulty alarm.