DirtyDT

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

I agree with foamy about the speed.

Take the tank off and the air filter out. Squirt some wd40 into the airbox hole where it goes into the throttle body. Open the throttle full and push the starter on a jump lead.

The SV stays out all year and gets ridden.

It might take me "back to the future" Mike, but I wouldn't want the stuff sitting between my legs like that.Ohhhhhh noooooo!

Nic wax wash.

I am no scientist but I often deal with scary stuff. Stuff you wouldn't want to breath in or touch. it includes radioactive stuff in different forms including isotopes, DNA replicators and the like. I recently brought a couple of Linacs (linear accelerators) and a Tomotherapy machine. All have to be housed is really thick concrete bunkers. Have a quick Google! I am looking to buy a couple of MRI's (Magnetic resonance imaging) next. They are safe though, just a giant 5 ton magnet spinning around. The radioactive stuff does give me the creeps though! I do have an interesting job - I think so at least. This does include stuff like the above that will kill you very nastily and quickly in the wrong doses. Radioactive stuff

That is the University that is linked to my work. I always feel nervous when I am in a room with some of these type of elements, even though I know they are very, very securely contained. I always get an eerie feeling. Brrrrrr...............

It might be the way forward. £10 for 3 years! I don't think he is going to retire on that anytime soon. Cheaper than ebay and it gives access to other areas of the forum with discounts and the like and paid members only chat.

I have "parked" 2 for sale threads today. These are now not viewable to forum members. The reason was as Airheads post above. I don't tend to inform posters when I do this - not sure if the other Mods do.

PM sent.

Vmax, for sure. SV, no. They must be the best value bike around. They are cheap as chips and if you haven't ridden one, you have missed out. The engine braking is to die for but can't see any value in them in the future otherwise I will throw mine into the garden and drag it back out in 20 years time. Limited addition Dukes with full service history - yep. Too many R's about and the engines and gearboxes won't last so there will be a lot of these which will be like the old Honda VF's (before the VFR's).Lotsof frames and parts but no engines. A nice VF400 or VF500 in excellent condition would be worth a look. Both fabulous rides - I have had one of each of these. Also the unfaired CBX550 would be a good bet (had one of these too).

You need to be careful otherwise you will burn something out. If you have power all the way from the battery to the relay, try earthing out the relay brown wire.

No. One cable does go to the CDI. Run a cable from the +ve battery to the Red/white on the starter solenoid. You really need a wiring diagram.

It you have power to the relay on the battery side and not the other side (with the button pushed) then it sounds like a lt problem. Just to make sure, disconnect the starter side wire from the relay and use a thick wire (jump lead) from the battery +ve to this wire. The starter should then turn. If it does then you need to check the wiring back to the starter switch and beyond. This is made more complicated due to the sidestand and clutch cut out switches but take your tiime and you should get there.

Are you pulling in the clutch when you try and start it? Is it in Neutral? Have you tried to start it with the side stand up? Is the kill switch on "run"? Have you tried to bump start it to see if the issue is local to the starter circuit? If so: You need to determine the last place on that circuit that power is getting to. Do you have a multimeter? If not you can use an old indicator or other light providing it has two wires. Work back from the starter motor. Do you get a light or voltage when you push the starter button with the ignition on? If you do then the engine may be seized or the starter motor broken or jammed. To test the starter take it off and connect it straight to the battery. It should spin. To test the engine turns over, remove the spark plug, ignition off but in gear. Can you push the bike and hear the compression noise from the spark plug hole. If you get no volts or light from the first test work this test back towards the battery. Make sure that the ignition is on and the kill switch is in the correct position.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Check the +ve feed into the flasher isn't incorrectly linked. This MAY be the feed from the ignition (as per Airheads suggestion). This maybe causing the whole of the left hand switch unit to be live causing all items controlled by this unit to flash. This could also be caused by a short in the left hand switch.

Good luck. My one was new in '94. Nice bikes.

I would use on and have it as vertical as possible. I am trying to remember back to the one I had. Does your have the fuel switch on the fairing? I cant remember if this was electric or vacuum. Check for air leaks and that you have not disturbed another part of the lines or wires. If you are not careful It is easy to reduce the fuel flow by using a filter that is too small. This is normally a filter that fits inside the original fuel line and and reduce the inner bore by 50%.

Take the barrel to a rebore mechanic. They will supply a new piston and re-bore the barrel to match it.

Also check the HT coil wire to the plug for looseness and rubber there. If you have a screw in plug cap, unscrew it. Cut a few mill off the HT lead and re-screw the cap on. These get loose. It may be worth investing in a new spark plug cap with a new rubber top.

There is no real formula for that. Some of the bikes I have abused over the years are now worth good money in good condition. Most limited additions will still be expensive to buy now and will always have a few coveted owners so only immaculate ones will fetch great money. Best to buy what you fancy and keep it longer than anyone else. Back that up with a shed load of spares and you should be OK.