DirtyDT

Yo.

Yep. Coil to spark plug.

They jetwash the carcass' and then press out the water into patties or nuggets (for chicken). Nice...........................I normally only eat "slabs"of meat but every now and again I do have a few quality sausages, black pudding etc. My other half insists on organic and free range and we have a very good "corner shop" butcher down the road.

Whilst driving into work this morning I saw a bloke on a unicycle riding through the snow. Barking!

Nothing wrong with horse meat IMO. If you have it as a steak, the fat is a little more yellow than beef, but very tasty.

:thumb:. Thanks Sacha.

Hi Scott. Welcome to the forum. It sounds like the HT lead (the thick one from the coil to the spark plug is earthing. First thing to do is see if you can see where the spark is coming from. Get a friend to kick it over while you look at the lead. Check the spark plug cap is tight one the HT lead - they screw in. Take the spark plug cap off, cut 10mm of the HT lead and rescrew the spark plug cap on. Change the plug and spark plug cap. Work things in this order and check after each suggestion. That should keep you busy for a while but come back and tell us either way if you cure it or need more advice. If you have a manual and the guidance from this forum you may be able to keep away from dealers for a long while except for the MOT.

The parts manual I have says 16" front and rear. The rear on mine is 18" but looking at google images of the bike, the rear seems to vary (guessing both 16" and 18"). It is possible that they changed the size during the years (or the rear is wrong) but they will get re rimmed at some point so I will see what needs to be done and what I think is best at the time. Some of the tanks vary, the seat came as either a singe with a rear rack or a double and some seem to have indicators but I am not sure where they were switched from.

I found a video of the electric start. Weird!!

Cheeky bugger . Mind you I guess it depends on how close each of us are. The way the Government is working we will never get there! God knows mate. Remember the days we used to siphon the stuff? I woudn't do that now. Great stuff John

Well done and keep it up bennyboy1 The only reason I smoke is so that up.yours doesn't sit next to me as I am a smelly smoker.

Cheers Nev. I have already downloaded a complete parts manual. Mind you, if anyone knows where I can get a service\workshop manual in electronic format................ I will order a paper one this week. Thanks Drewps. If I come across a decent panel beater I will let you know. I really want to get out there and on with stripping it but I am resisting the temptation.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Cheers slice. A great tip to keep an eye on the autolube. It has a non return valve in it and the 2 stroke is much better today but I may have to do a little premixing as pistons are expensive for it. That worry is a long way off now. I am impressed that all the covered parts look like they haven't been touched for 40 years. No real signs, at the moment, of a mixture of different bolts etc. I can't see this being a very cost effective project but most of my projects aren't about that anyway. It is about saving things. I am guessing another £3k will fix it to an OK standard.

You're thinking about Star Trek, aren't you? I actually don't know. It is a big old thing on a board. There are several on fleabay at the moment including a NOS one. I forgot to say that the kickstart spins the cylinder - so that works but you got me slightly paranoid by asking what works. It made me wonder if any of the peripherals were missing so out in the snow with a driver. Carb and oil pump. Generator/Electric start Reg/rec - photon torpedo thingie

The short answer is - nothing that I can guarantee!! The guy I brought it off said that it runs, I can't confirm this. It turns over very very smoothly but the gear shifter rod is broken where it meets the gear shift pedal. it may be seized or just was rotten (I don't know yet) but these are available NOS. There is no battery in it so I can't test anything. On a positive note, it hasn't been messed about although it obviously has been semi stripped by a breaker. There are no signs of penetrating oils or, from what I can see, rounded bolts. The weird rec/reg is in it and this, in conjunction with the generator, runs the starter (no bolt on motor, just a duel charging circuit and electric starter). I haven't looked but the carb seems to be in it (side valve so hidden at the moment). I am starting to get scared now.

Well, being a Mod on the forum and not having a Yamaha for a while I saw an abused YA6 local to me for sale on fleabay. I bidded a few hundred quid and won it. Then the thoughts of "what have I done" started. This feeling is quite common for me. Anyway, the bike has been imported from the USA and came with the customs declaration saying that all duties had been paid so that was a good start. These bikes were made from 1964 to 1966. The frame number puts the bike somewhere in the 65/66 ballpark but more about that later. The YA6 was a single cylinder 2 stroke 125cc bike with a fantastic amount of technology for the year. The spec includes; Autolube - the bike is reckoned to have the first self mixing 2 stroke with a separate oil tank. 12 volt electrics - bikes, even large cc ones, were mostly 6volt at the time. Electric start - how cool was that in the mid '60's? As I mentioned earlier, the bike is dated somewhere in 1965 or 1966. Frame numbers run between Y21-102883 and Y21-210890. My bike is Y21- 1955**. Because it is not registered in the UK, and I have no clue about the original title, dating it to a specific year will come later. A quick couple of messages to Paul Dawkins seems to confirm this. In addition, the bike still sports the original dealer sticker; Vic Panetti's of Milwaukee, Winconsin (shown later in the photos). Sadly this dealer went into administration in October 1965 after nearly 48 years of trading. This will possibly be a long project but as far as I am concerned, I need to order some more plusgas and let the pain fun, and expense, begin. Here are the "before" photos. That's about it for the minute. It is still snowing here so the bike will end up under a cover until the plusgas and a workshop manual appear.

The bike got delivered this morning in the snow so off to the project section to start a thread there.

You would need a huge extension lead to plug these in if you lived in a block of flats. Although electric vehicles are known for their torque, the video wasn't exciting as most peoples ride to work. They may as well have used a mobility scooter. I will stick to oil based products - thank you - until they get banned............................then it's moon shine!!!!!

Another way to look at it is; how much would it be worth as a rolling chassis?

The TS rims, spokes, tyres and hub paint cost around £600. I popped around to the sellers house this morning to pay him and had a quick look. I am please with the buy (for now). Hopefully it will be delivered tomorrow. I picked up the C&E 389 and a few other paper bits. I PM'ed Paul Dawkins but haven't heard anything back yet. The bloke has loads of projects - including a Gilera and a Vespino.

On the YBR? Often caps are a screw fit into the HT lead and these work a little loose or a couple of stray HT wires become exposed. Electricity will always go to the easiest earth. See if the plug cap unscrews. Check any rubber for perishing. Cut 10mm of the HT lead and re-screw in the cap. Before you cut make sure that there is enough HT lead left to still reach the spark plug. If you want to be pedantic, run a little silicon around where the HT lead goes into the plug cap.

I like it. Lots of money spent wisely. It would be the kind of thing I would buy (but I brought another bike yesterday and 2 in one week is a bit too much). It may not be cost effective and the engine COULD need a good few quid throwing at it but it looks good. Add in any costs for finishing it off................... It would tempt me.

If it happens when the engine is off it is probably the fuel tap. If it happens when the engine is on it is probably the float or float valve. You need to answer questions when asked to help with the diagnosis. My crystal ball is in the wash and I am still honing my telepathy skills.