neversaydie

Sadly, the Draggies gone, written off in the accidnet 3 weeks ago, so its down to one bike only. What a crackin little bike. Went out on the Virago yesterday for the first ride since. Shit, everytime someone was waiting to turn right across the road in front of me I felt like pullin up. Anyone else gone through this:unsure: Lovely weather though, went up around Whitworth/Griffydam/NW leics, ccol but glorious sunshine

http://www.motorcyclenews.com/MCN/bikereviews/searchresults/Bike-Reviews/Yamaha/Yamaha-SR125-1991-2003/ The link should take you to the bikes review, it looks like the bikes performing as it should

Oy, that bike looks better than youve let on Get the Haynes out again, read the descriptions around the front of the book about the bike, its gonna be either 2 or 4 stroke, I havent a clue what the 1.92 is

Yep, they look like photos. Would I want one on my living room wall? Errr - no, I'll keep the Gainsbrough for now.

If its an Indian call centre, the phone goes straight down. Its not predjudice,its to stop exporting jobs.

Check the chain to see if youve got a a seized link. Get the rear wheel off the deck and rotate it slowly, if there is a seized link youill see it not sitting in the sprocket teeth as it comes round the rear sprocket. Take off the front sprocket cover and check the sprocket is still secured on the shaft.

I'd say yes. I put one on the Virago for exactly the same reason, shite thrown up from the front wheel onto the front of the engine/exhaust. One tip though, cos the extenda fits inside the fender, it becomes a trap for water/salt/shite etc. I filled the space in with silicon sealant to stop the crap getting in there and rusting

but in a slide at speed, the footpegs bend against the exhaust, and if you aint got guards on then your pipes and casings have bought it. Get a set on mate

Personlly, I dont like bobbers but the guy has asked if its worth fitting crash guards, so lets assume hes not going to bob the bike, nor has he said he wants to install the HH cat on it. For what its worth I had saddlebags and crash guards on mine and never noticed any significant drop in performance (I accept the bike for what is is/was) or economy. If he wants to protect his bike from major damage in an impact or slide, then crash guards are the way to do it. £100 for crash guards, or god knows how much for engine covers etc (if you can get em) Its a no-brainer. Protecting the investment

This is always a problem when someone asks for a recommendation, you'll get differing opinions Best thing is to visit sellers and try on a number of different types, try doing lifesavers both ways with them on, its my view that open face lets you have more vision, but its a personal thing. Make sure that whatever you pick has conforms to the EU standard, it should have a sticker/label on it saying so, but I cant remember the code

Wow, thats a real nice looking bike, dont think they made many that colour, whats the year/milage? If I could offer a tip, dont take the CBT on it, use the trainers bikes.

Great intro, much of spot on I built my own garage some years ago, expressly for ME (selfish bastard). Regretably, most of the junk from everywhere else in the house/garden/stables has migrated into my sanctuary. Can still get both bikes in, but not much else. I need a summerhouse (a cunningly disguised workshop) down the bottom of the garden now

YYYEEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS FFS yes Ive been forced off by 2 kids pulling a rope across the road in front of me one night, then a car coming the opposite way turned right straight across me so I piled into his front nearside. On both occaisions, engine covers/frame/my legs/panel covers etc suffered NO DAMAGE Mine were Fehling crash bars Get em on, and be quick about it

NITRO X550-JV, between £50 to £70, the clear main visor fits close to the helmet so less wind noise, good ventilation, integral tinted flip down visor. Mine just stopped me having a head injury when someone knocked me off the Dragstar 3 weeks ago, hit the deck back of the head first. Good entry level lid

If everythings now legal and working, just ride him for a few weeks or so and get some miles under your belt, making a longer term wish list as you go. Bear in mind that cash spent on an old bike could be used to buy something more modern and reliable further down the line Enjoy

(voice of David Attenborough) "and so, as we prepare to leave for the oceans for 6 months, we'll leave behind these curious mammals, the only species on the planet that wilfully destroys its own environment in return for tokens and pieces of paper that they cannot eat.Let us hope that when we come back, they havent been able to locate where we've hidden all the oil and gas"

Good for you Whats left to sort?

Follow the cable from the thottle back as far as it goes, it will finish at the carburetor. With the bike on its stand and running, open the throttle and watch for something moving on the exteroir of the carb at the same time. Snap the thottle shut quickly and whatever moved when you opened it should move back as you move the throttle back. If its not, then switch off and disconnect the cable at the carb end after measuring distances from nuts to stops/ends etc. Tie up the loose end of the cable so that its higher than the throttle, make a small funnel shape from some blue tack and squeeze it around the loose end of the cable, then pour oil into the funnel and let it drip down overnight and into the cable sleeve until it runs out the other end. Reconnect back up and try again. If it works, its a quick win, if not we''ll try something else. Rear drum brakes on motorbikes arent particularly efficient

On its way

There are some websites that claim to have the manual available, but they all seem to want you to log on/register for something. I tried one today, but antivirus flagged up a potential threat, so I didnt bother. Its up to you to try if you wish, google "yamaha xv 125 manual"

Remember that the bike is air cooled, i.e. that it relies upon the flow of air passing over the engine as the bike is moving to keep it from overheating. Long periods of engine running with no cooling flow may result in engine failure, particularly in hot weather. May also mean insufficient oil flow to engine components for proper lubrication. Long peroids on tickover could result in battery drain, hence tickover slowing in time with indicators. If I were you, Id charge the battery up tonight Good luck tomorrow

send me a pm with your email address and i'll send something over to to you

Dont forget to check/adjust the rear brake if you carry out any work on the rear wheel

Buy a Haynes serive and repair manual

Depends on access, but how about knocking up a guide bush for drilling though, clamp/tack weld the bush in place so that its centre lines up with the stud centre, the drill through real slow using the bush hole as a guide.