neversaydie

Been noticing a slight hesitinacy on throttle response when winding on full, and from take off from standstill, on the YX600, since the intermittent electrical problem was cured some weeks ago. As part of the fault finding process for the electrical problem, I had the carbs off. Rather than have them off again, I thought id best check first that the carbs are balanced properly, as that may save further investigative work, and expense. Had a quick check of feedback for the Carbtune balancer, seemed positive, and reasonably priced, so purchased one, the 4 cylinder version. Instructions read through, easy enough to understand, all parts and attachments included to do the job, so in we go. Took the bike out for a 5 mile run to get the engine warmed up. Tank clamp screw removed and raised the rear of the tank up 3-4 inches, packed up with a piece of wood. 4 rubber caps removed from the engine inlet rubbers 4 rubber tubes plugged on as per instructions, gauge hung over the bars Bike fired up, tickeover speed checked ok 3 out the 4 cylinders all reading the same, no1 cylinder some way out Adjusted the screw for no1 cylinder to same as other 3, snapped the throttle half a dozen times, looking good, all 4 cylinders reading the same now Dis connected the Carbtune, tank etc back on Took bike out for 20 mile run, absolutely no hestitancy now, anywhere through the rev range Total time taken for the work - 1 hour Overwiew: Informative website, easy to purchase, quick delivery, easy to follow instructions, simple to use, results are obvious to read, response to any carb adjustments require throttle opening/closing to allow to settle but are easy to see on the clear gauges. Immediate improvement in bike performance, and once youve bought it, you always got it, and can be used on modern fuel injected motors too to balance throttle bodies http://www.carbtune.co.uk/Images/SSL11411LC.jpg

WD aint really what Id use, get some PLUSGAS if you can Can you post a photo of your Puller setup, so we can check youre set up right?

Doing it this way, you wont have to touch the ball joints.

Looking at the wear pattern on the teeth, Id say that the sprockets havent been aligned true

its probably a woodruff key, part circular. Use some release oil, (or diesel), on the mating surfaces, let it soak in, refit the PULLER, tighten the bolt, tap the end of the bolt head with a hammer, see if that allows the bolt to tighten a touch more Youve gotta be patient

http://www.rsbikepaint.com/en-gb/colours.php just enter your bike details in the appropriate box

Undo the hex bolt that secures the clamp onto the shift shaft, after first marking the position of the slit onto the end of the shaft (tipex so you get it back in exactly the right spot), you have to take the bolt right out before the clamp pulls off as it passes through a groove in the shaft Remove the circlip and washer from the pivot end of the linkage Doing it this way means you wont have to faff about adjusting the nuts/turnbuckle When you refit, copaslip the spline, and grease the pivot pin

Assuming then that you want to swap a 40mm long allen cap screw (5th down on your list) If there is room for the hexagon head, you can use a hex headed screw that is threaded all the way As Im unsure how much knowlegde you have on the subject, I will state that you must use a screw of exactly the same thread diameter, and pitch, and use the same length as the original Do not overtighten

I think the correct term is Smegma ?

may I respectfully suggest that you first of all GOOGLE "passing motorcycle test", and learn about what it entails and what is expected, and the costs.

You could buy a couple of right angled valve adaptors and leave them on permanently, makes it easier to inflate as some places dont have right angled inflators Means you dont have to have a right angled gauge then, more to choose from

Start with the simple things first You need a good, charged up battery, at rest should read min 12.5volts to 13 volts Start the bike, check the voltage across the pos and neg terminals on the battery with multimeter/voltmeter, 3000rpm should read approx 13 to14volts across pos and neg, increased revs above this shoudl max out at around 14.5 volts. Any more, theres a prob with the regulator Any less than 13 to 14 at 3000rpm means theres a prob with the charging system

I guess that you'll also have to open out the hole in the cover too If youve not done owt like this before, then give it to someone who has Too many things to be done wrong

Dont worry about any of that stuff yet. You need to get the bike firing first Fresh fuel Good, charged up battery new plugs clean air filter check the oil level, if its low, top it up to the reqd level and no more key in fire up, see what happens

Good luck with the new job

I'm with Slice on this one. Oil/filter - basic maintenance Save more cash, take the wheel off yourself and take it in, Again, basic maintenance

What would you tell your children to do in the same circumstances?

I can only suggest threading it and using a high tensile hex head bolt as the jacking screw, put it under tension and soak with plus gas, tap the head of the bolt with hammer, heat the bolt head and le the heat transfer through to the tapered surfaces, more tension. Repeat until successful

Is item 1 threaded down the centre

Yes I went for them on my old XVS125, I ride all year round, good in wet weather, good mileage too, 7k out of the rear before smidsy wrote the bike off for me Also had a pair of Heidenaus on the Virago now for a couple of years, same agian, cant fault them Bought them using PNEUS ONLINE, excellent delivery, got them fitted locally

Clarify not familiar with the set up, I see three parts, 1- the winding, 2- the central shaft, and 3- a metal sleeve that sits between 1 and 2, and waht looks like a keyway btween 2 and 3

whatever it says in the owners manual

based on all the info that I have read up on, i'd say definitely yes youve got to bear in mind that the condition of the internals (i guess) is unknown, and that erthanol damge may already be underway

I unreservedly apologise for my faux pas. Following passage is current situation in the UK, to best of my knowledge Picky BP Ethanol is added at 5% to unleaded petrol at all sites across the UK. BP Ultimate (super unleaded petrol) does not have Ethanol added, except in the South West of England. Esso Ethanol is added at 5% to unleaded petrol at most sites in the UK. Esso Super Unleaded petrol does not contain Ethanol, except in the South West of England (Devon & Cornwall) Shell Shell has repeatedly refused to answer the question. It is therefore an assumption only, that all Shell petrol should be considered to contain 5% Ethanol. Texaco Ethanol is added at 5% to unleaded petrol. Texaco Super Unleaded petrol does not contain Ethanol. Total Ethanol is not added to any Total fuel (including standard unleaded petrol). Except in the North West and South East of England. Total have kindly provided a list of filling stations where E0 petrol can still be purchased. Click this link to download the list TOTAL E0 Fuel Sites.xls As far as I can gather, the only reason that the super unleaded fuels seem to be ethanol free is because it is harder to obtain the fuel quality required for super unleaded if Ethanol is present. However several of the oil companies told me that this will change in the future but that no date has been set. Chris Thompson CAE Eng Tech AMIMI

because your bike was made 2012, and the internal components are likely to be made from materials resistant to ethanol as a rule of thumb, bikes made before 2000 are those most likely to be affected