neversaydie

Simples Remove the sprocket cover and count the number of teeth. Mark the 1st one so you dont count twice Parts suppliers like Wemoto will sell individual sprockets with more and less teeth for front and rear. Bear in mind that you may have to shorten/lengthen the chain to suit

Check the y shaped rubber adapter that sits on the carbs for cracks/splits etc, and that its clamped up tight on the joints

Check to see if the mark on the splined gearchange shaft is in line with the slit, and that the arm is securely clamped onto the shaft. If it isnt, line it up. Check that the gearchange linkage is secure at both ends, and that the uniball joints are free to move. Check that the gearcahnge pedal is free to move. If still no joy, you may have to try adjusting the uniball joints to see if that improves the problem. Make a note of measurements before making any adjustments so that you can return it to where it was. Check your clutch adjustment and oil level, right type of oil in? Oil change due?

Bike on the centre stand, or if not one, someone holding the bike up straight. Find the sightglass, oil level should be half way up. Dont overfill If no sightglass, then typically there is a rod atached to the underside of the filler cap, should be an upper and lower level indicator on it.

Yep, I've seen one on here but buggered if I can remember where now If its model specific info youre after, try the RS Paints website and enter the model/year/registration into the code finder

Yep, Aldi, same size collets can be used as most other makes

Indeed, there may have been little noticeable performance difference between regular unleaded and super unleaded in the past, but the introduction of ethanol into regular unleaded at 5% (to be increased to 10% later this year) is causing corrosion problems for bikes/cars typically more than 10 years old, that were never designed to run with ethanol additives. As an owner with 2 bikes, 16 and 27 years old, having read up as much as I can on the subject, I've decided to use un-ethanoled super unleaded rather than risk having to replace the guts of my machines, and am prepared to pay a few extra pence to reduce that risk. You pays your money, you takes your choice

You've got to make sure that you drill through accuratley with the centre of the spindle, or you may not get the split pin in through both castellations. Its possible that where the drill breaks through, it may leave a burr of metal hanging on. You should be able to carefully whip that off with a needle file. Run the nut up and down a few times before fitting it to the bike to make sure its clear. Copaslip the threads on final fitting

Great stuff

I'm not sure I understand what all balls is, and I cant picture the set up in my mind, but my view is that you need to have at least a full nut on the thread 2 quarters? What are they? A half?

From your description, I cant see it being anything other than the ignition switch. When you switch off, it should disconnect the internal connections on the switch, no lights should be on

Nah, switch off, then fuel tap off Is it a vac operated fuel tap?

Timing chain needs to be inside the engine If that wasn't the question that was intended, and you want to know the set position, all I can tell you is that the XVS 125 is 15 degrees BTDC, basically the same engine. According to the 125 manual it is non adjustable Whats the problem?

I'm with Preload on this, drill a hole in the replacement spindle and fit a new split pin

Use Super Unleaded Foamy, no ethanol in it in the UK yet. Have a search for "ethanol", its been discussed on here recently and plenty of info on the web, bikes over ten years old not designed to run with ethanol

Have you tried some fresh fuel. Might be a quick win, drain out old put new in and try it. There has been much talk on here recently about ethanol in fuel and how water is attracted to and forms in the tank

That looks good for a freebie

and provide some cheap electrickery

Guess whos woken up Longest hes ever in zonked, 6 months, normally 3 to 4 months max. Its been a bad winter, but its over now

Yep, cleaned the comm with a comm stick (small fibreglass brush), cleaned out the dust from between the segments with a nozzle cleaner file. New battery on today, fired up fine. Off to work tonight on it, back in the morning so should test it out Thanks

or me, mine comes free

be older

Yep, cleaned the segments (commmutator), couldn't fault the starter Yesterday I rigged up the battery off the Virago. The Radian hadnt been touched since it failed earlier, fired up super The Radian battery had been charging up, took it off charge and over the next few hours checked the voltage. It steadily crept down to less than 12 volts. I reckon thats fairly conclusive, but wil check the current draw too Thanks

Call me stupid, but what the chuff is the rolling chassi