Madison Motorsport

With a 160 wide tyre, it should do after a bit of spindle modding. Just beware though, that if you don't fit a suitable profile of tyre, your speedo will be miles out.

The 7k error code is for a seized EXUP valve. The EXUP is located inside the belly pan under the engine. If you look at where the headers meet on the exhaust, after that towards the end can is a box with a lid on it, held in by two (or three, I can't remember) socket screws. These usually get siezed by the usual abuse of normal use so you will need to soak in WD40 for at least 48 hours before trying to remove them. I have an EXUP refurb guide if you want to PM me your e-mail address. As for the pipe issue, I would recommend buying a couple of metres of fuel hose and replacing the affected bits. You may also need to invest in a couple of small hose clamps if the ones that hold the hoses to the tank are missing (they are only small and usually get lost at some point).

I for one, would NEVER buy second hand chains and sprockets. Yes, it may have less than 100 miles on the clock, but you don't know, a ) how those miles were ridden and what shit the chain has been put through and b ) how long the chain has been standing (siezed links is a problem that springs to mind). A £45 bargain now could well end up in a four figure bill in 6 months time. Why risk it anyway when you can get a DID X Ring chain & sprocket set for £100 delivered to your door?

Pirelli Dragon Corsa I used to use on mine Other than that, I can recommend Conti Sport Attacks or Michelin Pilot Sports.

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If you don't have a pillion, surely a tail pack would be easier and a strap down map pocket on the tank?

Why waste your time on the idiot? No need to lower yourselves. Think of all that time you have wasted when you could have been out on the bike, or you could have missed the parts bargain of the century.

Have you checked the jets are clear? Also check the fuel filter in the tap under the tank and for any split fuel lines. At higher revs any problem will be less noticable because of the higher fuel flow.

My guess would be the carbs need a clean and mixtures adjusting.

2006 model year, registered in 2007. I had a 2005, 54 plate R6 that was actually a 2004 model. The guy in the showroom tried it on but I knew it was an old model because the forks were upright (they changed to upside-down in Feb 2005).

It does sound suspiciously like the starter motor and/or relay to me. Either that or you have a short on the starter circuit.

Maybe the weather differences have something to do with it then

It's not worth the hassle when you can pick up a PAIR for £35 from Busters

Is the selector lever bent at all? It may be rubbing on the engine casing and not have free return (if you catch my drift). Easily solved by gently prying the lever outwards a few mm.

I presume (and hope) you are fitting a new chain as well? I would highly recommend a DID HD X-Ring chain and JD Sprockets. You can order these online from J&S or Busters.

I go down to Rye quite a lot, sometimes Box if the weather is OK. I have a weekend in Builth Wells planned for 27/28 June if you wanna tag along. Camping or B&B opposite each other on the road into the town. Plan to take in the Snowdon run and quite a bit of the Rhondda Valley. Anywhere up to 1000 miles is our usual run over the weekend.

Mixing tyres of different brands is a really bad idea As for the Road Attack not having enough grip, absolute tosh. Unless you attack every bend like you are James Toseland, you won't ever out reach the grip of these tyres.

One question springs to mind - Why are you bothering on a 50? The amount of money you are spending and are looking to spend, you may as well just go out and buy a bigger machine.

There are different ways of restricting the R6. You may have washers in the exhaust ports, in which case all you need to do is remove the headers from the block and prise them out. Or, you may have carb slide restrictors. If this is the case, you will need to remove the restriction bolts on the carb slides.

Oil level? When was the oil last changed? Cats can burn oil, like the Aces. The only way to solve the problem is to fit oversized piston rings. As it is, it is not a major issue, but keep an eye on the oil level. A pint every 1000 miles is not uncommon. Also, check the exhaust clamps and downpipes. You may have a hole and/or leak.

Yep. Every time you take something out, like a bolt, make a note of where it came from. Take photos if you can. It helps the re-build loads. I have in the past ended up with vital parts left over Also, don't try and remove the engine on your own. get a strong pair of hands to help you. They are tricky beggars to remove from the frame. You will need to lower the lump to the floor and lift the bike off it.

+1 for the Attacks. However, to get the right balance of stick, I use Sport Attack on the front and Road Attack on the rear. This also helps keep wear patterns more even. Other than that, Michelin Pilot Sports or Pirelli Dragon Corsas are a good bet.

Engine out and full bottom end strip down I'm afraid. There are no short cuts to that particular job.

The sender unit is one weak point on the Cat. Mine went three times in the seven years I owned a Cat. It doesn't affect the cooling fans so it's not a major worry. It just affects the accuracy of the temperature gauge. The fans will kick in at 96 degrees celcius and switch off again at 88 degrees celcius. As long as the coolant system fluid is fine, you shouldn't have any major worries. I noticed on my Cat that the fans very rarely kicked in, same with the Thunderace. Also, running over 65 degrees is a rarity.

Google is your friend Just avoid Chinese bodykits - they don't fit properly and are a lot thinner.