drewpy

jets should be fine, need to check the mains on each carb as they can be different for a specific side (not uncommon) when you say carb tune, do you mean the dial guages or that crappy contraption which fits on the end of carb and lifts a plastic bobble? need to use the intake stubs and adjust the right side to match the left carb. do it on tickover as the diaphrams can start taking over and messing up the settings. on my carbs the mixture screw is in for weaken out for richer

the right foot gear change is common for xs650 flat-trackers. why don't you keep that and put on a left foot brake just to be different. If you want to change back, sell the right engine case as a dirt track mod and you will soon sell it. buy another case and you will need a new change shaft, poss change quadrant and gear lever. left hand case may be just a grommet and not welded up so check forst

quite simply BRILLIANT!!! I luv the crass ones

well said

did you make sure you cleaned out the return hole from inside the resevior? this prevents a vaccuum so the fluid can flow. its really tiny and hard to see. another trick is to bind your brake lever to the handle bars overnight to let the fluid enter the seals.

yea they did, even blew a seal last year, that's when I changed to 20W

my bike takes 10w 30 engine oil or 20w fork oil. i drained out the 10w 30 as it didn't perform, the 20w is much better.

I would email him, don't give up cos when youv'e done it you get a lot of satisfaction and you learn as you go. don't forget to keep us posted

did you try to fit them anyway? why don't you email the site owner, they usually do speak english and is worth a try. ask for the model he used!!

air is denser when cold and the cold charge promotes combustion ( spitfire planes etc used water injection for that purpose) the white plugs are a great indication that you are running lean, i would try your idle mix screw and richen it, as it does affect the rev range higher up. trouble is , the usa models are set really lean to pass emissions test. I run rich on the bottom end of the rev scale to get my kicks at the top ( my bike hates slow traffic like me)

lowering the floats, lowers the fuel level as it will shut off the fuel earlier. you need to lower the tab between the floats (effectivley raising them) then you will raise the fuel level. try it and see, if i run mine at constant 4k then is starts jerking around (its much better between 7 and 9.5 k )

I don't think they will as xs650's have there ports splayed out a la triumph. get the rear silencers and get a set of downpipes made to match. my friend had a set of stainless made for xs400 for £60 a pair!!

have you picked up your xs360 yet, and is it any good? just got an invite for Lotherton hall today from VJMC.

yep, the cam marks will be there and you will see them freeze under the strobe lamp. if you keep the bike on main stand, no oil will escape ( it will on side stand, don't ask me how I know)

oi loiks dat wun!!

and I laughed at you laughing at him laughing at his joke

not normal to heat up. I bought after market ones from ebay as I wanted new and they work fine xs250 ones are the same coils these are the ones I bought on ebay 360048409546

all you would be able to do is strobe the timing if you can move the trigger plate at the end of the camshaft. use an induction strobe and take the generator cover off (4 screws). and strobe on the marks to see if they line up. adjust the trigger plate to move the firing timing earlier or later!

the plates would have rusted on, so will need freeing, they normally sit in a oil bath and prevent this

MM... my haynes does say to use a non hardening gasket, but I have not done so as, you righly say, it changes the clearance on the camshaft bearings. don't bead the gasket sealer, smear an absolute smattering on if you must, with a finger. goo WILL get into the oil ways if you bead it on. on next oil change check the gauze filter from under the engine, even after I've smeared blue hermetite on it still got in the oil, luckily it has got trapped by the gauze filter.

nice one ,thanx for the update. a lot pf peeps diss' them, till they have a go. mine easily reaches 80 and I have got the ton on it. I now have it running on 1 tooth up for doing longer trips as it is less revs. (500)

have you checked the vacuum pipe on the right side is attached to the inlet stub? sparkies from plugs? checked strobe on timing side? is the right spark plus wet?

and the bike is a 50 max?

yep, that's the original way,i suppose its protects them via the lower leg.

DVLA won't issue your reg on frame numbers. the only official way is to have the vjmc check the bike out and issue a age related certificate, then you have to apply for an age related registration, get an MOT on the frame number and insure the bike under the same frame number. you only now have 30 days before the insrance gets pulled to have the bike inspected by the dvla (at your cost and their convenience). I have read somewhere that you can do a HPI check with just the frame number and get the registration number at the same time. once you have the reg number its easy from there.